Operating Temperature of Series 3

This is the radiator I have fitted as a stopgap to get my LWT registered, can be seen in a post above,

LAND ROVER SERIES 3 4CYL 2A DIESEL/PETROL RADIATOR NEW AND BOXED | eBay

Its alloy 4 core , with plastic tanks , Bolts up perfect to every standard Series3 hole, except I had to drill some special Lightweight Holes for the Military oil cooler , not found on the civvy Series3 so I'll excuse them for that.

The radiator has surpassed my expectations of looks, fit, quality & cooling , so much so that I don't see any point in having my original re-cored now .

no one that has looked has picked on the 'plastic' radiator .

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Originally Posted by goingbush

The radiator has surpassed my expectations of looks, fit, quality & cooling , so much so that I don't see any point in having my original re-cored now .

no one that has looked has picked on the 'plastic' radiator .

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If anyone asks just tell them that it's part of "Lightweight" thing and that Land Rover lead the way in revolutionising the design of the Plastic/Aluminium radiator, way back in the 70's. ;)


Cheers, Mick.

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Originally Posted by inch

Morning,

On a similar subject, can I pick the brains of the wise. Came home last night to the S3 project to find her sitting in a puddle of coolant, it was the core plug last month, now we've popped the other end, the radiator is stuffed.

Not driven it long enough to gauge such things but the leaking radiator was a high capacity unit. With no cowl, I presume a cowl wouldn't fit as the HC radiator is hard against the fan.

Living in Perth, what's the considered opinion, stamdard rad with or without cowl and standard belt driven fan or HC rad with no cowl? I'm pretty sure it's a standard thermostat and I've no intention of doing much static running, and using a PTO is right out of the question!

Cheers Ian

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If you have to buy a new radiator the Aluminium/Plastic version like "Goingbush" has purchased sounds like a very good option.


If you remove the engine fan and go for an electric thermofan, consider installing one on either side of the radiator, as I have found they work well with one pushing and one pulling air through the core. Only issue is you might need a higher output alternator if you are only running the standard unit. However if you go with the aluminium radiator, you may find it disperses heat that well that one fan will cope easily enough.


Cheers, Mick.

Thanks Charlie & Mick,

Think the standard 3 core is probably the way to go with a cowl, seems like the most appropriate radiator for my use and appeals to my preference for originality where possible.

Apologies and thanks Chris for hijacking your post.

Cheers

Ian

All good Ian - a bit of discussion never hurt anyone plus we're all learning!

Update on the temp - drove it back to Brisbane from Sunshine Coast and she overheats..it's strange though, temperature is fine in traffic, plenty of circulation, new coolant and recently flushed, new thermostat.

I did check the timing and the flywheel mark is about an inch n half off (retarded I think not advanced) the mark but it idles nicely, runs fine on the highway. I have bought a carby kit to put through it (original zenith in there) so I'll play with the timing once I have done that. Is it as easy as rotating the distributor? Oh and advice on the carby service would be much appreciated!

Thanks
Chris

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Originally Posted by ChrisInAus

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Update on the temp - drove it back to Brisbane from Sunshine Coast and she overheats..it's strange though, temperature is fine in traffic, plenty of circulation, new coolant and recently flushed, new thermostat.

I did check the timing and the flywheel mark is about an inch n half off (retarded I think not advanced) the mark but it idles nicely, runs fine on the highway. ...
Thanks
Chris

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Incorrect timing will make an engine overheat!

Get it sorted first and then take it for a run to compare performance and temperature,

Cheers Charlie