Help Smoking Dash. And hello all.

Relatively easy.
Need about a 20mm hole in the seatbox for the center of the switch to go through, then attach it with a couple of pop rivets.
Once its physically fitted, you just need to break into either the earth lead or the power lead to the battery. I chose the earth lead as it was simpler for a variety of reasons (ie dual batteries and separate winch power feeds etc).

I ended up just getting new earth leads to suit - from chassis to the isolator, and from isolator to battery.

Steve

Hi all. I got myself a meter and checked the wires that relate to the ignition system. They all have seen to have continuity. Perhaps I'm not wiring the ignition correctly as suggested.

The ignition barrel has 3 banks of pins, the one marked 1 is a single pin, the one marked 2 has two pins and the one marked 3 has two pins.

I have a thick brown wire.
A thin white wire
A thin white and red wire
A thin brown and orange wire which is fused.

How should I position these?

Thanks all.

Here are some photos that might be clearer. I only see the brown and orange wire in diesel and lightweight diagrams. This has me a bit confused. I've got a 2.1/4 petrol.

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Originally Posted by DaveBattye

Here are some photos that might be clearer. I only see the brown and orange wire in diesel and lightweight diagrams. This has me a bit confused. I've got a 2.1/4 petrol.

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In the manual the switch has 4 terminals, only 3 are used in the petrol. Wiring layouts may have changed over the years.

Wiring is different if it has fog lamps (?)
Brown to 1 (two wires shown, one from generator and one to horn)
White to 2 (to fuse box & warning lights on dash)
White/red to 3 (starter solenoid)

No white/orange listed in diagram.

So ignition off, no continuity between terminals 1,2 & 3.
Ignition on, 1 connects to 2.
Starter position, 1 connects to 2 & 3.

Just need to figure out what white/orange connects to........

A quick Google of Lucas standard wiring colours throws up white/orange as Hazard warning (feed to switch).


Colin

Quote:

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Originally Posted by steveG

Relatively easy.
Need about a 20mm hole in the seatbox for the center of the switch to go through, then attach it with a couple of pop rivets.
Once its physically fitted, you just need to break into either the earth lead or the power lead to the battery. I chose the earth lead as it was simpler for a variety of reasons (ie dual batteries and separate winch power feeds etc).

I ended up just getting new earth leads to suit - from chassis to the isolator, and from isolator to battery.

Steve

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+1 on doing this, especially if you haven't rewired the vehicle yourself. Most of these LRs have had a rough life, add to that the various owner modifications and repairs. Mine's got a stereo but I have no idea where it's wired to without taking the whole dash apart.

I've had 2 old motorbikes burn out their wiring shortly after I bought them. On one of them I was parked, ignition off, when smoke started coming out from under the petrol tank. Luckily with bikes, the battery is usually fairly easy to get to, and this one had a fuse on the earth wire readily accessible. It's a good idea to be able to quickly isolate the electrical system.

I've had a quick peak behind the instruments of my S3, scared the hell outta me! I picked up an isolator key yesterday, I will be fitting it as soon as I can. I reckon I'll fit it right next the fire extinguisher, save myself the extra trip!