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Check the little screen at the end of the fuel suction pipe inside the tank and any vacuum hoses connected to the inlet manifold for cracks/breaks (if you have any for connecting crankcase breathers or brake boosters)
How is the coil to distributor wire? I had one once that had a poor connector on one end that caused all kinds of issues.
If it is idling fine with the choke on it sounds like the issue is within the carby, so I wouldn't be going to the trouble of replacing the fuel lines.
Is it needing the choke on to increase the idle speed to keep it running, or because it's starving for fuel at idle.
You have probably had the carby on and off that many times you will wish it was held on with a zip, but given that it had plastic crud in there, I would be "totally"
dismantling it, every jet, screw, etc. and give it a good blow through with compressed air. Ensure the float level is set correctly too.
If it's had stale fuel sit in it for a long time, that stuff can dry out leaving a varnish like residue and easily block fine ports/galleys.
Is there anyone close by that might let you try their carby on it?
Then like Gary say's, get the ignition timing set up correctly.
Then...if it's still giving strife remove the ignition module and put the contact breakers back in to eliminate issues and stick to basics.
You can always replace the electronic module once you get it all sorted out.
Good luck.
Cheers, Mick.
So the "put someone elses carb on" gave me an idea and I dismantled the old carb (which had a snapped off mixture screw) and straight swapped the top halves.
Success!
It is now idling without choke. Still hunting idle, but we are better. I will dismantle the new one and give it a good blow out.
I will now work on the timing, it is still out. I have moved it to 6 BTDC (via dynamic timing) and it is happier, but still cracking and hesitating. I will try and find the old distributor.
Will update and as always, thanks for the help thus far.
So after the short lived joy of thinking I was on the way to solving things last week, as per the advice, I took apart, cleaned, and put back together my new carb and unfortunately didnt help. I went back to the settings of last week, new carb bottom and old carb top and now the carb is gurgling fuel. The gurgling is going well after the land rover is shut down and is vaporizing fuel out the throat to look like a school science experiment.
Any help would be appreciated.
Ben
Last weekend I left the headlights on and destroyed the battery.it wouldn't hold a charge over night.
Ive been using a booster pack to start it until I got a battery on Thursday.
with the weak battery it would not idle without the mixture screw turned in almost tight.
got hold of a small 440 CCA gel battery and had to reset the tune completely.
ended up with vac disconnected timing of 12-15 deg. mark lines up with edge of the timing plate bolt.
with vac connected [manifold] the mark is almost dead on top I guess at 30-40 degree. this jumps the idle up. My experience is that that the vac timing is probably too much but stops the back firing on over run.
My cyl head is low compression and most of the time I running 95 octane. engine temp last few weeks has been around half on gauge due to the rain.
All,
Thanks for the help over the last few weeks. I sat down over Easter with 3 different U/S carbs and a rebuilt kit and made a carb that works.
I ended up using the best bits of all three and it was amazing to see the different quality in the castings.
After sanding down all the flat surfaces, it went back together well and now I am back on the road.
Yours aye,
Ben