Had an issue this week.
Couple of trips its made a few hickups and I had the sound of scrapping drum at 80kmh that I disregarded due to the mud that's around here. It got worse due to a trip a 2 hour trip. It became a little rattle at high speed. I took the drums off and found nothing other than a few soft mud balls.
The muffler has that restriction blocked up sound since I bought it and that recently stopped and was replaced with a bell like rattle . I gave the muffler a bump and the baffles rattled, so I disregarded this.
Wednesday I thought the right rear brakes locked on at speed. I had heaps of issues with these before. Cant find the ALRO links at this time and the NBN not working too good.
Drove home slowly and I grabbed a few more times at higher speeds
the drive shaft nuts on the back of the gearbox had come loose one was missing. a nut had come off a wedged in the joint damaging the bolt. The rear uni joint cup had let go so it must have been grabing.
driven to work with the front axle drive the shaft arrived cheap enough on Friday carrier. all is well.
Im thinking the rear diff may need work as it was quiet in front drive mode.
Had another related hiccup. lot of weird noises since the noise of the shaft has gone.
Front Right wheel locked up for a few meters this morning.
made some odd noises after 5Km of running. smoked the tyre followed by bad noises and very wobbly steering. brake shoes grabing as I sneaked it home. Wife run me to work.
had to organise transport for weekend, I done a quick inspection and found no lubrication in the FWB.
bearing isn't damaged but had oily rust on the rollers the rest being dry.. some goose had packed the drive plate with molybdenum or filled the the ball and its worked through.
done a test drive tonight, its quiet compared to a backhoe. Im thinking a full axle rebuild.I ve got a wrecked SER2A WAGON. Im told the basic axle parts are similar. getting me back to a 4.7 ratio.
Drove the Newcastle Saturday morning to get parts-closed for easter.
Drove to a few in heavy shopping traffic had brake failure with the BF Falcon.
Rear pads are worn to 2 mm and over heated the fluid with the shopping center traffic light crawl. The ABS made this very scarey even compared to seizing an axle at hyway speeds. The wife has complained about brake shudder that goes away when I swap tyres but what I can describe was each wheel taking it in turn to lock up and the pedal bouncing off the floor.
Back home and falcon fixed I taken quick look at passenger side bearing and found no lube there aswell. looks to have been oil filled. I filled it with grease to make it drivable. I cant get the hubs off and need to use a puller. Now I found the passenger side stub looks to have been thrown quickly together with lots of axle shaft play and oil leaking from the inner shaft seal. no oil leaking externally from the ball seals.
went out to the farm to raid a wreck 2A. that turned out to be too different. The fresh 4 foot brown snake skin was the deal maker.
Had a win of sorts. In a 89 range rover I removed a original Lucas H4 lights. given the glass a quick clean no rust on the mirror. fitted these into the 88 and last night I adjusted the aim. The old lights had an orange look 50/50 and low beam pointed toward the bumper bar so high beam was my low beam with the adjuster screw in tight. I found land rover surplus military convoy lights in UK that described this type pattern.
The loss was that the high beam circuit in the dip switch failed. it works high beam on flash so the wiring is OK and low beam worked in the high position.
I replaced the combination switch when I bought the car. I was given a spare recently think I use relays if they are going to last this long.
noise turned out to be tyres. swapped to a set of 15in 70 series A/T-pickup is much stronger but ive got bogged already.
outer edge feathered after I tightened the bearings. ToeOUT measure 1/2 inch.
Found three out of 4 Rod ends well worn when I could get alighment to stick. These are spring loaded and was able to fault only when I used a lever.
replaced indicator switch, modified wiring adding relay for head lights and heater fan. Now have to fix the low speed resister as the heater fan now too strong.
Started to make a harness to allow lights on relays and hazard lights. I will add fog and driving lights circuits.
Repalced rod ends found relay arm bolt had stretched allowing it to be loose on the shaft.
I fitted my winter radiator baffle as I had the grill out.
Most of the time this morning was taken removing the yellow steering damper. The threads had been damaged and I had to resort to the saber saw. Tourist gave way to me as I wound up the power leads and cleaned up. Then his bike wouldnt start.
replaced the left wheel bearing.
The bearing look good but the cone was damaged, Im guessing that they clamped into a brake lathe and scored the bearings.
The stub axle bolts was loose. The lock tabs not bent over. the axle was stuck in the stub axle. After I got it apart I couldn't find a reason.
The uni joints look new.
I purchased inner housing bearing and seal but don't have tools hear to get it of the axle. The sleave that the seal runs could also be replaced.
I found a half inch chunk of swarf on the diff side in the housing seal that looked like drill shaving.
Road tested only a little noise now on the rh side.
last few months the ser 3 been parked up with a terminal engine.
It had enough power to drive around the yard loosing compression on 3 cyl.
I obtained a spare engine a few months ago and during the school holidays I swaped it.
I had to do a few repairs as I gone along.
The donor engine had a cracked rear housing.
swaped it over and kept the flywheel and new english clutch-The Australian clutch didn't match with the thrust bearing.
both had cracked bendex springs purchased new thank to peter. my local auto elec got the installer jig out of his archives.
I fitted a tractor starter solenoid so I can crank the engine with out the key.
swaped the fuel pump back to the original when the pump did not work- both are not working 100% and having trouble with air leaks.both are full of rust from the tank. I found an A/C pump at work of an English tractor. It has no glass bowl-and found a separate A/C glass bowl assembly.if I go that way.
I obtained a fuel filter finally for the factory fuel filter. listed as a 6 cyl filter. found an olive type joiner that I can connect to the carby without rubber hose.
swaped distributor and applied new oil/filter. has a new water pump, fan belt and I fitted a 74 thermostat and cleaned the housing and did heater repairs.
still have the radiator panel out and drilled holes to refit the cowl. I fitted a new radiator that the cowl did not match last time.
tonight I cranked over the engine to get oil pressure. then out of interest I hit the key and it ran idling lovely on full choke.
I ve got a weeks work upgrading the wiring before I refit the radiator.
got the vehicle running and the 3 months out of rego period is almost up. spent this weekend fixing up things for a pink slip inspection.
In the text bellow I commented that the wheel bearing on the right front looks ok. that was very incorrect. It spun free and quiet had the grease seal not been out of the hub and allowed grease on the brake shoes I wouldn't have worried about it.
the cones was also damaged from been clamped in a lathe and the outer cone was loose in the hub. The inner bearing cage had rusted with lot of the dividers missing and some of the rollers had been missing. big chunks worn into the cone.
the inner bearing was stuck on the stub axle. I had to cut the bearing to get it off.
some goose had welded a run on to the stub to stop the bearing rotating.
given there was no lubrication in the hub when I got it Im guessing the mechanics didn't understand how to service it or it had been left dry.
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