Thanks. I think I will get a new carby as it seems to be the best option.
The car crank but doesnt want to start. Any idea why?
No reliable way of distinguishing an original. The copy has changes only seen on late model ones such as lock nuts requiring a special screwdriver on the adjusting screws, but these are easily swapped, so no real way of telling, except that if it looks very new it probably is a copy.
Which is best depends on what is wrong with the one you have. What usually goes wrong with these carburetors is generally:-
1. Badly sealing O-ring. Both seats must be clean and undamaged and the O-ring in perfect condition. Watch for wrong screws or washers or burrs on the screws holding the emulsion block, as there is little clearance and these may be causing lack of pressure on the O-ring. This is by far the most common issue with these carburetors.
2. Warped top cover. Results in air and fuel leaks and contributes to 1. Lap flat on wet and dry on a sheet of plate glass.
3. Worn throttle spindle and throttle body. Needs the throttle body rebushing and new spindle. Unless you have the tools and skills to do this, it will be far cheaper to get a copy.
4. Dirt blocking jets or passages. Clean them, being careful not to damage them - fit a filter just before carby.
5. Damage by previous hamfisted owner or mechanic. Depending on the extent, replacing the carby with a copy may be the best option!
Gaskets may need replacing as part of the above, and the needle valve and seat rarely. Even more rarely, I have encountered a leaking float.
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Thanks. I think I will get a new carby as it seems to be the best option.
The car crank but doesnt want to start. Any idea why?
Provided it has fuel to the carburettor, and (good) spark, it should usually at least try to fire, although it may not if the mixture is too far out or the compression is too bad due to worn rings, leaky valves etc.
Usual reasons for complete failure to fire is no spark or spark timing a long way out (plug leads on the wrong plugs?) or no fuel in carby - but you say it is leaking. (If the carby has had gummy fuel in it, all jets may be blocked, so it behaves as if no fuel.) Crank the engine looking down the throat of the carby with the choke open - you should see a fine spray of fuel and the inside of the venturi should show wet with fuel. If it does, look elsewhere for the issue, although you may still need to work on the carby to get it running properly.
A flooding carby can sometimes prevent firing, but not usually from cold at this time of year.
Check spark at the plug. If weak or absent, first check the low tension circuit, including the internal wire that earths the moving breaker plate in the distributor, and check the condition and gap of the points. Also check the distributor cap and rotor button for moisture inside, cracks or tracking over the surface.
High tension leads are also a likely suspect, although, except for the coil lead, unlikely to prevent firing completely.
Hope this helps
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Did you manage to get it to fire?
cheers,
d
1957 88 Petrol (Chumlee)
1960 88 Petrol (Darwin)
1975 88 Diesel (Mutley)
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