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Thread: It was only a matter of time

  1. #141
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
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    Blair Athol, Adelaide South Aust.
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    No. To do it properly you need to remove the flywheel and housing. I would get a rear main kit. It comes with both sides of the seal retainer plates which need to be sealed onto the engine block as well. I used loktite 515. You will also have to remove the rear main bearing cap and "T" seals. Get a land rover genuine workshop manual, it will help you no end. It describes how to do it properly. I've just done this as part of a complete engine rebuild. Check your main bearings and conrod bearings while you have the sump off. I did and I'm glad I did. The conrod bearings were stuffed although the engine ran sweet. Cheers, Rod

  2. #142
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
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    australia
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    steering boxes

    Quote Originally Posted by 67hardtop View Post
    Not much grease on those bearings. Lock tab not bent over either. Or is the pic just for show??

    Cheers Rod
    hi rod i have complete steering boxs here in good used condition it does not hurt to have a spare jim
    Russell Rovers
    Series I Parts Specialists
    russellrovers AT gmail.com
    Phone 0428732001

  3. #143
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Tasmania
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    Thanks Rod!

    I have a rear main kit ready to go in.

    First time taking apart an engine so I’m a little hesitant about taking things off that I don’t need to.

    I'll work out how to remove the flywheel in the morning.

    Cheers!!


    Quote Originally Posted by 67hardtop View Post
    No. To do it properly you need to remove the flywheel and housing. I would get a rear main kit. It comes with both sides of the seal retainer plates which need to be sealed onto the engine block as well. I used loktite 515. You will also have to remove the rear main bearing cap and "T" seals. Get a land rover genuine workshop manual, it will help you no end. It describes how to do it properly. I've just done this as part of a complete engine rebuild. Check your main bearings and conrod bearings while you have the sump off. I did and I'm glad I did. The conrod bearings were stuffed although the engine ran sweet. Cheers, Rod

  4. #144
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Tasmania
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    Just some photos from taking the flywheel of and getting the old seal out.


  5. #145
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    Jun 2017
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    And some more from putting the new seal in...

  6. #146
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Tasmania
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    Well, the sump is back on with a new clean gasket and tightened back up.

    I also had a couple of boxes of parts arrive from the UK today. Faster getting an order filled from overseas and shipped to Tassie than it is to order and arrive from the mainland (cheaper too)

    New manifold gasket to put on this week amongst other parts.

    They did end up sending me 1 pack of oil dipsticks rather than just the 1 individual that i ordered. If anyone is in need of one holler out and its yours.

  7. #147
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
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    Tasmania
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    Coming close to the end of putting the truck back together and I'm looking for a part but not having a lot of luck through the usual sources.

    This butterfly piece the goes between the intake hose and manifold is proving elusive. Does anyone have or know where to find one of these??

  8. #148
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
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    I've given up trying to find the butterfly bit for the truck instead looking at an electric pump or an alternator with the vacuum pump attached.

    Does anyone have any experience with either of these?

  9. #149
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
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    Nope but I have to go down the same route. I'd like the butterfly bit too for vac boosted disc brakes on my s2a 109. I thought about adapting a VN-R v6 throttle body as I think they are the same diameter but the linkages would prove to be problematic, as the butterfly must be closed at idle and fully open as you crack the throttle. I thought also about going electric vac pump utilising one of a late model VE v6 Commodore and a vac tank. But need to have negative pressure switches to turn the pump off when there is sufficient vacuum in the tank. Also still thinking about a vac pump alt as well but that needs an oil feed and drain. Decisions decisions. Cheers Rod. Watching with interest.
    Quote Originally Posted by Nick6273 View Post
    I've given up trying to find the butterfly bit for the truck instead looking at an electric pump or an alternator with the vacuum pump attached.

    Does anyone have any experience with either of these?

  10. #150
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Tasmania
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    Thanks Rod. I'll let you know what I find.

    At this stage Im leaning towards the alternator. Just need to find the right one for the job.

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