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Hello from Brisbane.
For about the same amount of dosh being bandied about you can get a Startrex unit from the crowd in Canada who make the Roamerdrives. These are supposedly more powerful and efficient than the originals and bolt straight on.
British Off-road on the Sunshine Coast were selling them at one stage. Presumably anyone selling the Roamerdrives is too. I have one for my S3 88" but have yet to fit it.
Cheers,
Neil
Hello Neil , hope all is well.
Had a quick look at the roamerdrive site and that model is not the same as mine. Mine has no end shield and the solenoid is seperate.
I have sent them an e just in case they supply others not shown.
cheers,
D
checked British Off Road - they only supply BRITpart at $385.00 + postage
further , on the bench I have 12 + volts on the end of the leads at the starter motor end but once the sm is wired up and turning , i only have 7 volts , wheres my 5 volts gone?
Hello again.
I bought mine from British Off-road a couple of years back - such is the pace of my own restoration.....
From memory, Roamerdrive had a couple of models, one of which specifically suited the 2.25l motor - this is the one I bought at the time.
http://roamerdrive.com/startrex_start.html
Sounds like BOR are no longer stocking them.
Cheers,
Neil
that looks more like the one on the Diesel.
May have to get teh wallet out again!
cheers,
D
Have you checked your earth straps/connections?Quote:
Originally Posted by Dark61
The high torque unit has the solenoid attached, it's not trying to look like an original.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dark61
Seems to be a Nippon Denso gear reduction unit, available from a few sources Land Rover
Here's another one Starter Motors
Have you removed the cover on yours and checked the brushes ? 270225 | Brush Set - Paddock Spares
Is the commutator OK (no missing segments) ?
Is there much play in the bush ? This can lead to poling where the free play allows the rotor to touch the stator, huge current draw but no rotation. You could source a bush from a bearing shop.
Does it smell like it's overheated ?
Unless the failure is in the windings or the commutator they are a robust unit and simple to repair. Not sure about a **itpart one though......
Colin
Heres mine.
everything looks ok apart from wear on the copper bit that the brushes sit against. Brushes look ok, springs seem springy. It turns on the bench , but loses 5 volts in the process. I am guessing it shouldnt lose that much?
cheers,
D
That looks like the one on my 6-cyl motor. The commutator (copper bit) is on the end and the brushes are almost triangular in section.
What are you testing it with? The big current draw could pull battery voltage down depending on the condition of the battery.
Appro
Approx $260 delivered if yours is past saving. Probably 'pattern' though.
Colin
Thanks Colin. I have a multimeter on it. Battery is good. Commutator slightly worn - yes brushes are triangular. The main shaft has a small amount of play , maybe a mil or 2 max .Not overheating. All cables and connections are ok. So the loss of volts is not necessarily an indicator of faliure? The plot thickens.
cheers,
d
Where are you measuriung the volts? If that is measured at the starter, running it on the bench with no load, there should not be that much voltage drop once it it spinning if the battery is good. Mine only drops to about 10v when actually turning the engine!
Either the leads to it are too small, or it is poling due to worn bushes. If the latter, it will be getting hot as well. If this is the case, fortunately, the bushes are cheap and relatively easy to replace. The most likely bush to wear is the one at the flywheel end, since it has the side load on it. You can check it by seeing if the shaft can be moved sideways. There should be no perceptible movement.