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Thread: It's Adventure Time! My '72 88"

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by gromit View Post
    You need an N70ZZ battery if you hunt around you will find different cca and variable pricing.
    Most batteries will start a 2.25 but the N70ZZ(or equivalent) is the correct size.


    Colin
    Thanks for the spec no. That will make it much easier.
    Quote Originally Posted by whitehillbilly64 View Post
    I have Super Charger, gold plus in my Series2 and 3
    810 CCA, fits nicely in the original battery housing.
    Had no trouble cranking the original 186 Holden 6cyl motor fitted to my S3
    Also used them in my V6 Mitsubishi's

    SuperCharge GoldPlus Battery MF95D31R-810CCA

    whitehillbilly
    810CCA!! I'm pretty sure my 300Tdi had a 750CCA to crank with. (I upped it to 850 which handled it a bit better)
    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    As Colin says. Anything that fits reasonably in the carrier will have plenty of capacity - the engine is easy to start, although the Stromberg may make it a bit harder.
    Yeah, I'll cross the stromberg bridge when i get to it. At the price SU remakes are going for I'm not keen to spend money on the Stromberg

    Thanks for the help guys
    FINN - '72 88" S3 - 2.286 petrol - yet to go on it's first adventure
    SOLD - '08 D3 4.0 V6 - 265/65/R17 on X5 rims
    GONE '96 D1 300Tdi - 2" lift, 32" tyres, HD rear axles, lockers :(

  2. #12
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    Back To It!

    So after 10 days away i couldn't wait to get back with a few days before work to try and start Finn (I'm pretty settled on Finn ).

    went and bought a battery, some spark plugs, valve saver and a couple of fuel filters. Thanks to those that gave me specs on the battery but it turns out, due to the additional brake booster, an N70ZZ doesn't fit! So I had to get a slightly smaller one.

    A quick story on the battery - I originally bought an SCA 560CCA N70ZZ for $180, then realised on the way home that Enirgi (never heard of them before) had N70ZZ on sale for $99. So stopped and took the SCA battery back. When I returned to swap the N70ZZ for a smaller one, not only did the guy swap it free of charge, he gave me $10 cash back! so I picked up a 610CCA 60Ah battery for $90

    When i got home I fitted the battery and tested to see if he turns over. Tick!

    So I then swapped out the spark plugs (old ones were very gunked up), replaced the inline fuel filter just before the carby (it already had one - the old one seemed clean) leaving the line open to drain any crap from the tank, put in some fresh fuel and valve saver and turned the ignition on to let the electric fuel pump prime - a previous owner disconnected the standard fuel lift pump (it's still fitted) and installed an electric pump mounted to the chassis - but despite leaving it for 30 secs or so, there was no fuel and the pump still sounded dry. I checked the lines back to the tank, which were all OK, then I removed the drivers seat and pulled the pickup out to find the filter was slightly cracked and it was full of gunk. I ended up removing the bottom screen and cleaning it out with wire.


    I then taped a piece of fabric to the end as a temporary filter



    After that I turned the ignition on a rusty fuel spewed forth!


    ...and unfortunately after a few runs through it didn't get much better, though there was no sediment in it


    After this I started to get excited that I might hear him cough to life!

    But no... for some reason he wouldn't turn over. I replaced the starter solenoid (the car came with a spare) but no luck. And that is as far as I got (I wasted a lot of time buying and returning batteries!)

    Until next time

    Dan
    FINN - '72 88" S3 - 2.286 petrol - yet to go on it's first adventure
    SOLD - '08 D3 4.0 V6 - 265/65/R17 on X5 rims
    GONE '96 D1 300Tdi - 2" lift, 32" tyres, HD rear axles, lockers :(

  3. #13
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    Starter Solenoid???

    A question regarding the starter solenoid - am I doing it right?

    The cable at the top runs to the starter, cable at the bottom runs to the battery + terminal, and the little cable on the left runs to the ignition (I'm assuming, i haven't traced it). No cable on the right terminal

    And this is the part number of the solenoid:


    I pretty much copied what was on the old solenoid, though it didn't have a fourth terminal so I haven't installed anything there.

    I have run a multimeter across the system and I get 12.6V at the battery, 12.6V to the battery terminal on the solenoid (as you would expect), and 12.6V at the little ignition wire, when I try to start the car, however I get zilch on the starter side at all times. I'm confused as the old solenoid worked with this setup. Well... until it stopped working

    Questions:
    1) Is the main wiring backwards, i.e. should the battery connect to the top and the starter to the bottom (I didn't think it mattered) and;
    2) Do I need an earth wire on the fourth terminal?

    I haven't completely checked the earth terminal, though when I shorted the solenoid, the starter kicked over, so my hunch is the earth is OK.

    Oh, and does anyone know how to replace the fuel pickup filter mesh?


    Thanks for the help

    Dan
    Last edited by Disco-tastic; 25th August 2017 at 09:23 PM. Reason: Added Question about fuel pickup
    FINN - '72 88" S3 - 2.286 petrol - yet to go on it's first adventure
    SOLD - '08 D3 4.0 V6 - 265/65/R17 on X5 rims
    GONE '96 D1 300Tdi - 2" lift, 32" tyres, HD rear axles, lockers :(

  4. #14
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    Pics, Pics, Pics

    Here's a few more pictures of Finn as I got him.

    Front bullbar with dents


    The bullbar is welded to the dumb irons (is this legal?)


    The front axle


    The heater/fan thingo


    Coolant is still green! though it has floaties


    A little rats nest


    Stromberg Carby - number on the side is 2376061


    Selectro hubs


    Finn's carrying some memories of a past life under here


    Door tops have a couple of small holes though the window channel is as good as gone. Windows still slide though!


    Door bottoms are similar - should i fix these or just treat the rust? I want to keep the patina on the car, but also don't want the car to rust out


    Will need to patch this though. It seems to be the worst patch.


    Small rust in the door frame


    Bulkhead seems pretty good


    Though I think someones replaced the floor. It may be dodgy


    Is this accelerator pedal standard?


    Passenger door lock


    Rear axle


    Rusty chassis bits - I think it's just surface, though who knows


    Rear Lights - are these "porky pie" lights? I have standard replacement lenses in the cab which i will probably change to.



    And thats most of them. The full gallery is here if you ever have nothing better to do!

    Cheers

    Dan
    FINN - '72 88" S3 - 2.286 petrol - yet to go on it's first adventure
    SOLD - '08 D3 4.0 V6 - 265/65/R17 on X5 rims
    GONE '96 D1 300Tdi - 2" lift, 32" tyres, HD rear axles, lockers :(

  5. #15
    JDNSW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Disco-tastic View Post
    Here's a few more pictures of Finn as I got him.



    The bullbar is welded to the dumb irons (is this legal?)

    Probably not - but I doubt anyone would notice.



    The heater/fan thingo

    Well, that's different!


    A little rats nest

    Typical!


    Door bottoms are similar - should i fix these or just treat the rust? I want to keep the patina on the car, but also don't want the car to rust out

    I doubt you will get a roadworthy with that. The doors are significantly weakened.

    Will need to patch this though. It seems to be the worst patch.

    Yes. You can get channel to repair doors. The door skin can be removed, and the frame rebuilt and painted, and the skin replaced, retaining the patina on the outside of the door.

    Small rust in the door frame

    Needs repair - may be worse than it looks

    Bulkhead seems pretty good

    Door post is part of the bulkhead

    Though I think someones replaced the floor. It may be dodgy

    Yes

    Is this accelerator pedal standard?

    No, but the standard one is not all that different

    Passenger door lock

    Well, it works, doesn't it?


    Rear Lights - are these "porky pie" lights? I have standard replacement lenses in the cab which i will probably change to.


    Those are (one of) the standard lights, not "pork pie" ones. Do the "standard ones" you have include reflectors or are they 90/110/Defender lights which don't? If you replace the lights with reflectors with ones without, you will need to add reflectors.

    Dan
    Starter solenoid - you probably have the wrong connection for the 'start' wire from the ignition switch. The extra connection on the solenoid is probably one to short the coil resistor (not used on this vehicle). Connecting your start wire to this will not work. But there is also the possibility that the extra terminal is an earth terminal where the old solenoid used the mounting as earth. Another possible reason for not working could be that it is earthed via the frame of the solenoid - and this earth is ineffective. With this vehicle not using a coil resistor, it should make no difference which way the big terminals are connected.

    Hope this helps
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  6. #16
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    I think John's answered most of your questions.

    Heater is late IIa early III.

    The fact that the coolant is still green doesn't mean anything, it could have lost all it's anti-corrosion properties depending on how old it is.

    I can post links to the process of repairing the door bottoms if I can remember which thread it's in. Plus a lot of photos were removed by Photobucket.

    Door tops are 'consumable', if they are bad it's easier to replace than try to repair.

    Footwell looks like it's had a coat of underseal or bituminous paint. The floor panel is removable but the Tek screw is non-standard.

    Rear lights include the reflector in the centre and are correct for the period. If you're taking them off I'd be interested in them but I'd suggest you keep them if you can.

    Accelerator pedal looks fairly standard except for the hole. Maybe a pad was bolted onto it at some point.

    The door lock is typical on an old Land Rover, it should have a padlock hasp on the bonnet so you can lock it with a big padlock that rattles around and removes paint in the area......

    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '58 Series II (sold)
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    Starter solenoid - you probably have the wrong connection for the 'start' wire from the ignition switch. The extra connection on the solenoid is probably one to short the coil resistor (not used on this vehicle). Connecting your start wire to this will not work. But there is also the possibility that the extra terminal is an earth terminal where the old solenoid used the mounting as earth. Another possible reason for not working could be that it is earthed via the frame of the solenoid - and this earth is ineffective. With this vehicle not using a coil resistor, it should make no difference which way the big terminals are connected.

    Hope this helps
    Thanks John.

    The start wire shows 12V when i turn the to the start position. This is what i would expect, and the old solenoid started the car with this wire, so I think it's OK.

    I will try earthing the body of the solenoid. Due to the previous owners hack the solenoid was zip tied onto the brake booster and moved around. Could be it was in just the right position to earth.

    Not looking forward to de-skinning the doors! Will have to find a good how-to!

    Cheers

    Dan
    FINN - '72 88" S3 - 2.286 petrol - yet to go on it's first adventure
    SOLD - '08 D3 4.0 V6 - 265/65/R17 on X5 rims
    GONE '96 D1 300Tdi - 2" lift, 32" tyres, HD rear axles, lockers :(

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by gromit View Post
    I think John's answered most of your questions.

    Heater is late IIa early III.

    The fact that the coolant is still green doesn't mean anything, it could have lost all it's anti-corrosion properties depending on how old it is.

    I can post links to the process of repairing the door bottoms if I can remember which thread it's in. Plus a lot of photos were removed by Photobucket.

    Door tops are 'consumable', if they are bad it's easier to replace than try to repair.

    Footwell looks like it's had a coat of underseal or bituminous paint. The floor panel is removable but the Tek screw is non-standard.

    Rear lights include the reflector in the centre and are correct for the period. If you're taking them off I'd be interested in them but I'd suggest you keep them if you can.

    Accelerator pedal looks fairly standard except for the hole. Maybe a pad was bolted onto it at some point.

    The door lock is typical on an old Land Rover, it should have a padlock hasp on the bonnet so you can lock it with a big padlock that rattles around and removes paint in the area......

    Colin
    Thanks Colin.

    A write up of how to repair the door bottoms would be great, if you can find it.

    I have a spare set of door tops but they're in similar condition. Can i just replace the window channel? Or is it all effectively one piece?

    Thanks for the info on the lights. If they're period correct and are serviceable then I'll leave them on.

    Cheers

    Dan
    FINN - '72 88" S3 - 2.286 petrol - yet to go on it's first adventure
    SOLD - '08 D3 4.0 V6 - 265/65/R17 on X5 rims
    GONE '96 D1 300Tdi - 2" lift, 32" tyres, HD rear axles, lockers :(

  9. #19
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    John, you were right about the earthing of the solenoid. I rigged up an earth wire, and after a few turns, coughs and pops he started! Woohoo!

    A small amount of smoke but after that nice and clean.

    Here's a video of the second start.

    Thanks all for your help

    Theres a little bit of breathing out of the top of the valve cover cap (theres some oil stains here too). Is that normal?
    FINN - '72 88" S3 - 2.286 petrol - yet to go on it's first adventure
    SOLD - '08 D3 4.0 V6 - 265/65/R17 on X5 rims
    GONE '96 D1 300Tdi - 2" lift, 32" tyres, HD rear axles, lockers :(

  10. #20
    JDNSW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Disco-tastic View Post
    .....

    Theres a little bit of breathing out of the top of the valve cover cap (theres some oil stains here too). Is that normal?
    Not normal. The Series 3 should have a positive crankcase breather system, and strictly speaking, needs this to be roadworthy. System has a hose from the cap on the top of the rocker cover to the elbow on the air intake above the carburettor, and a pipe from the oil filler pipe to a positive carncase ventilation valve sitting next to the carburettor and connected to a vacuum port under the carburettor.

    There are three likely scenarios in your case - clearly the original is not in place because there is no elbow to plumb the top cap to. The correct way to deal with this would be a connector on the underside of the air cleaner to connect this hose to, and leave everything else as is.

    The second way of doing it would have been to replace both the rocker cover cap and the oil filler tube cap with the caps from the earlier models, that incorporate oil wetted air cleaners. While this is mechanically satisfactory, it is not legal, although very unlikely to be picked up.

    The third, which is the most likely to have happened, is simply to remove the pipes and hoses from the crankcase ventilation system. Apart from being illegal, this means that unfiltered air is allowed to enter the crankcase, but at least it is ventilated - expect excessive engine wear due to intake of dust. A variant on this would be to replace the top cap with the earlier one, and block off the oil filler breather connection. This will at least keep the dust out and allow some crankcase ventilation, but with no circulation of air through the crankcase, expect a sludge buildup. Another variant would be to leave open the top cap hose connector but leave the PCV and plumbing to the oil filler. This is probably the worst, as it will suck dust in rather than just allow dust in. Yet another variant would be to block both breathers. This is going to lead to a buildup of pressure and will result in oil leaks and quite possibly failed crankshaft seals.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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