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Thread: Series 3 6 cyl Fuel

  1. #11
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    By Premium fuel - I assume you mean 95 or 98 octane fuel - why would you need that on a low compression engine? Higher Octane fuel is only needed for higher compression engines or those running extremely advanced ignition timing.

    Like for the 4 cylinder engines, I would not have thought upper cylinder lubricant is needed but am not sure - John will know.

    Garry
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  2. #12
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    JDNSW is online now RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Assuming it is the standard compression ratio, the only reason for running 95 or 98 would be to reduce the chances of using fuel with ethanol in it. Ethanol is undesirable for vehicles that spend a lot of time not being used, as it is hygroscopic, attracting water, which then starts corrosion of the fuel system, In addition, the ethanol may damage the rubber components in the fuel pump and carburettor.

    There is no need to run lead replacement in the six cylinder Rover engines.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  3. #13
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    Of course if a seller puts ethanol in 91 then it should be marketed as E10 or have a clear notification that the fuel contains Ethanol. That is why I do not buy BP petrol any longer as they have E10 and also sell 91 but their 91 also has ethanol - so is effectively E10 but charge 91 prices.
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
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  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    Assuming it is the standard compression ratio, the only reason for running 95 or 98 would be to reduce the chances of using fuel with ethanol in it. Ethanol is undesirable for vehicles that spend a lot of time not being used, as it is hygroscopic, attracting water, which then starts corrosion of the fuel system, In addition, the ethanol may damage the rubber components in the fuel pump and carburettor.

    There is no need to run lead replacement in the six cylinder Rover engines.
    Thanks John,

    Well it just shows you can learn something new every day!
    I never run ethanol in any of my cars, mowers, chainsaws, generator etc... for that reason.
    The guy I bought my FFR off told me it needs premium fuel because the 1978 (or older) engine well pre-dated the introduction of unleaded fuel, and wasn't designed for it.
    That sounded reasonable to me so I never got a second opinion until now.

    Many thanks.
    Rob.
    SIII FFR 2.6; STAGE 1 3.9; RRS 4.4;
    REMLR member 114

  5. #15
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    Unfortunately "Fergo" lost a heap of power on the way home from work today, and believe me he couldn't afford to. I have put new plugs in last week that fixed a bad miss in the engine. Since then he has been idling nicely. Wondering what the brains trust thinks to look at next? I pulled the fuel line off the carby and pumped some into a clean bottle thinking that it might have some bad (old) fuel or sucked up some water seein as how it has sat for quite a while (8 years or so) but the fuel is clean as a whistle. It has a Zenith carb on it, do these generally give much trouble or are they mostly best left alone? On the way to work this morning seemed to be running ok, still not great power, very slow acceleration up to 70 kph and that was about it.
    Should I look at points, cap rotor and coil or carby kit???

    I have owned Fergo for around 8 years and also have a 4cyl trayback "Burt" on my property. I
    have always thought that Burt has significantly more power than Fergo which doesn't seem quite right.

    Any thoughts would be appreciated.

  6. #16
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    8 yr old petrol might be an issue try some new stuff..
    Rob.
    SIII FFR 2.6; STAGE 1 3.9; RRS 4.4;
    REMLR member 114

  7. #17
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    Hi Rob,
    Sorry
    i didnt mention that I put 40 litres in last night, I did however pull the fuel line off the carb and pump some out this afternoon to check as my first thought was fuel. What came out was very clean looking, I would say fresh fuel.
    Before the 40 went in I put about 10 in it 3 weeks ago, before that it wouldn't start as fuel was so low.

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trailraider View Post
    Hi Rob,
    Sorry
    i didnt mention that I put 40 litres in last night, I did however pull the fuel line off the carb and pump some out this afternoon to check as my first thought was fuel. What came out was very clean looking, I would say fresh fuel.
    Before the 40 went in I put about 10 in it 3 weeks ago, before that it wouldn't start as fuel was so low.
    Ok... the 4 essential ingredients are fuel, spark, air and combustion. I assume the fuel filter is clear and nothing else has been done to it in the interim.
    Is it running rough?.. if so, make sure all the leads are on securely. Maybe check the plugs too.
    Those zeniths are pretty reliable but do have a rubber diaphragm which can deteriorate over time and crack. Easy to check. Let me know if you need details.
    So failing those, hopefully it's not a valve. But that would be less likely.
    Cheers
    Rob.
    SIII FFR 2.6; STAGE 1 3.9; RRS 4.4;
    REMLR member 114

  9. #19
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    And dont forget the oil in the dashpot.
    REMLR 243

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    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  10. #20
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    Thanks goes out to the brains trust!!!
    I had 5 minutes spare this afternoon so I ripped the top off the carb as per Rob and Garry's suggestion.
    As they predicted, diaphragm is ripped, there was some oil in the dash pot but probably not enough, though not really a problem as the ripped diaphragm would have negated the damping problem.
    I will order a kit tomorrow and hopefully have it sorted by Saturday morning. Then rip the tank out and try to sort the fuel leak, change gearbox,diff and transfer case oils, and see how she goes

    Thanks for the advice Rob and Garry.

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