Thread: Question re un-converting a SIII with 202

All very doable, but you'll need to be aware of several things.

The standard engine may have been a 4 or 6 cylinder petrol, or even a V8, but I doubt someone would pull a 3.5 V8 to stick a 202 in it...

VicRoads will require it t be engineered yes, but this isn't as difficult as you may think if you get it right from the start. Given that standard items like a demister and 2 speed wipers are also required when engineering a vehicle in Victoria, the Series 3 is a good start as it meets all these other bits and pieces you will need to do already.

Speak to an Engineer BEFORE starting anything, or even buying an engine. Although I doubt there'd be too many combinations an Engineer wouldn't approve due to the series having a full chassis, knowing what you can - and more importantly can't do, is the best place to start.

There are a couple of places in Bendigo you could go chat to, here's a full list from the VicRoads website - https://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/~/me...tion.pdf?la=en

I've found that if you cross your T's and dot your I's then VicRoads aren't that bad to deal with - finding out what you need to do in the first place is usually the hardest bit.

Other things to look out for are the standard brakes - these may not be up to the task when engineering is concerned as it will need to pass a brake test. If it has the bigger 3" drums up front (that the 6 and 8 cylinder models came with) then you may get away with this if they are in impeccable working order or else a disk brake conversion may be needed - there are several good kits available from manufactures both local and overseas, but these aren't cheap.

Speaking of money, be realistic about the cost of this as well. While you think a few grand might get you there, my guess is that you will need at least $10K to do this properly and legally if you spin the spanners yourself, add 5 to 8K if you need to pay someone to make up new engine mounts, fabricate other things, etc. Not saying you shouldn't - I think it would be a ripper project, but just be aware this isn't a cheap excersize - I'm rebuilding a series 3 at the moment and the complete rolling chassis with new disk brakes up front owes me over $10K and I haven't rebuilt the engine yet. Don't be put off by the cost compared to the value of the vehicle, that's not how it works - if you love it and plan on keeping it, the money isn't an issue (unless you don't have it to start with of course) but if you have the means, go for it.

Lastly the only other thing I can think of is that the axles and other driveline parts will be stretched closer to their limits - some parts in the driveline aren't the strongest in the world, but if you're careful, it will be fine.

Choice of engine is a big question on its own - the 200 and 300TDi engines would work well, but are getting long in the tooth and expensive to rebuild, so if you're getting it engineered anyway, why not go for something more modern? A small Izusu, etc would be a good choice as you've mentioned.

Whatever you do, make sure you start a thread on it and take plenty of pics - a project like this will generate much interest around here.

All the best with it.

hi.
would love to see some pics of your roll over bar, please.

whitehillbilly

Fair chance it was a 4 cyl petrol to start with and the chassis number will tell you that. JDNSW could confirm but I did not think we got anything other that 4 cylinders S3 shorties in Australia (excluding private imports).

Post up your chassis number and someone will give you a bit more info.

Didn't see the SWB bit...

Yes, most likely a 4 originally.

Series 3 swb were only ever built with four cylinder 2.25 engines, petrol or diesel (anywhere). While I am not in Victoria, I fail to see why engineering would be required if you fitted the original engine type (VIN number should give this). This should make fitting a 2.25 diesel the most red tape free route. It was probably originally petrol, so fitting a diesel will require changes to the fuel plumbing and wiring.

The most likely changes that would have been made in fitting the Holden engine is to butcher the front cross member, and it is likely that this will need rebuilding or replacing. An additional cross member may have been added in front of this. And engine mounts on the chassis will almost certainly have been altered. There will have been alterations to wiring, throttle linkage and fuel plumbing, but these will be easy to reverse. It is likely the radiator support panel has also been butchered or moved, and the aircleaner almost certainly gone, possibly with the battery mount.

The roll cage will almost certainly require engineering.

Defender mirrors are a useful improvement, and probably better than any of the easy alternatives.

Worthwhile improvements to original would be to fit lwb brakes on the front.

The 2.25 diesel is probably not very easy to find a good example today, but it is certainly the easiest to fit. The 200Tdi is the next easiest, but they are also getting to be a bit short supply, plus unless you install it as n/a, radiator and intercooler make it a much bigger job, and any substantial increase in power will need better brakes. Any change to anything other than a standard installation will certainly require engineering, and you need to check whether a change from the 2.25 petrol to 2.25 diesel would.

Originally Posted by JDNSW

Series 3 swb were only ever built with four cylinder 2.25 engines, petrol or diesel (anywhere). While I am not in Victoria, I fail to see why engineering would be required if you fitted the original engine type (VIN number should give this).

Yep, no engineering required to put a 4cyl series land rover engine in a series land rover here in Vic, regardless of what it was converted to. I'm doing this with my 186 powered 88" and can confirm it's not easy to find original 2.25l diesels, but they are around. I looked at doing the 200tdi but honestly couldn't see the advantage for something that will never be my daily driver.

Will do... I'll put some general ones up. If theres specific points you want just let me know. Dont know much about it, its basically galvanised steel tube. An engineer may well tell me its not workable, but in the mean time its already there, so I'm leaving it alone and focusing on resolving a, surprise, surprise, over heating issue...

Originally Posted by whitehillbilly64

hi.
would love to see some pics of your roll over bar, please.

whitehillbilly

If you want to put it onto a Club Permit there were issues with a vehicle with a roll bar not being eligible for the scheme. Not sure if this has changed though.

Colin