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Thread: Question re un-converting a SIII with 202

  1. #11
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    Homestar is offline Super Moderator & CA manager Gold Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by gromit View Post
    If you want to put it onto a Club Permit there were issues with a vehicle with a roll bar not being eligible for the scheme. Not sure if this has changed though.

    Colin
    It should be right now as long as it is signed off and noted when the VASS is done. That is my interpretation anyway but it would pay to check.
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Homestar View Post
    Agreed, but that's not what the OP was asking about - he mentioned 200 and 300TDi's and other non Land Rover offerings. Maybe he actually wants to get up to speed by the time the sun goes down...
    original 2.25 was one of his stated options.

  3. #13
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    Hi Folks,

    Thanks for all the replies, and apologies for the delayed response. Heaps of food for thought there.

    What I know of the vehicle...

    It was originally a bit of a barn find, and for a series, its very free of rust, and reasonably original.
    The brakes have all been redone pretty recently, and seem very good. Though probably not up to modern standards. The previous owner was intending to have it as a farm buggy and something for the kids to learn in, so while safety was a priority, legal registration was not.

    The roll cage was a custom job, and seems pretty heavy (galvanised steel tube). It does sit further out than the normal canvas hoops would, or the hard top, so that is presenting an issue for keeping the rain out. Oh well. Theres no door tops, and so the seat belts are attached to the roll cage. There is a bull bar, but its a home made farm job, and wouldnt be legal. Theres been some updates to the wiring, so while I know the headlights, brake lights, reverse lights, indicators and wipers work, I'm not sure about a lot of the other switches and various wiring running around.

    Theres is a 202 fitted, and while it has an electric fan which I can hear kick in pretty early, and runs all the time, the temp does run pretty high, and gets up into the red. It lowers again once moving, though not always as far as I'd like. So that'll need to be sorted in the short term. I've waved a thermometer at it, and it hasnt seemed too hot, but I've just been using it for very short stop start trips around the paddock to move fencing gear, chainsaws etc, so I havent been able to really test it yet. Even when up in the red though, it didnt seem too hot. Where is the needle expected to sit with a 202?

    In terms of my plans for the vehicle...

    The short term purpose of the vehicle is to help around the farm, move trailers around and so on, so realistically I just need to sort the overheating, fit the mirrors, and it'll be fine for that.

    Longer term, I'd like to be able to take the occaisional run into town, maybe even make it to Cooma one year. I'm not too concerned with going fast. My 110 with 300tdi was plenty quick for me in an offroad vehicle, so the series could be a little slower than that and I'd be happpy. I have bikes if I need to go fast. With that in mind, I'd be happy with an original 2.25, a 200 or 300tdi (wouldnt bother plumbing in IC + Turbo). Alternatively, getting a front cut of an isuzu and fitting that has its appeal. I

    My initial plan was to just get a RWC, get it registered, and deal with the rest later. But, based on what I've seen here, and the advice given, getting the RWC and rego will be a problem with the existing setup - 202, home made rollcage, county seats fitted etc etc.

    I think I'm best to get the existing 202 as sorted as it can be, and look at anything else as a longer term plan. I'll have to find my old timing light etc too - its been 20 years since I had to service a petrol engine.

    So.... anyone got any photos of a 202 cooling setup that I can copy in the short term

    cheers

    Dave



    landy_in_shed.jpg

  4. #14
    Homestar's Avatar
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    It could just have the wrong sender for the gauge - you'll need to actually check its temp accurately - either with an infrared thermometer or a thermocouple stuffed in the top radiator hose.

    If it is overheating (which I'd say would be anything approaching 90 to 95 degrees (My old 202 powered 2a used to sit bang on 82 the whole time which is what the thermostat temp was) then start with simple things - blocked radiator - give it a good hose out, check the thermostat (or just bung a new one in - they're cheap), upgrade the electric thermo fans - there are some really **** ones out there that move **** all air. Failing that maybe the radiator needs rodding to clean it out which is a job for a radiator specialist (but don't jump the gun, do some simple checks first)

    Let us know what the actual running temp is when checked with a known instrument.
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Homestar View Post
    Let us know what the actual running temp is when checked with a known instrument.
    You know - most people are content to just call me a tool

    Plan at the moment is to measure using the infra red at various points. I did a quick measure of the top of the block, top rad hose, bottom rad hose when it was last showing in the red, and I think the highest temp I got was 80 or so. The top of the engine/cyclinder head was from memory only around 50. I'll check it tonight. We've just done the tree change into a place thats been neglected for around 20 years, so most of my non-day job time is going on brush clearing, chainswa, fence fixing, plumbing etc etc. Fun though.

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