I had the same issue with a Weber on my S3
I had to go up in main jet size to get the mixture right
Once it was done it runs better than my worn Zenith did
Definitely need choke on cold mornings though!
I can’t remember the jet size, sorry!
Hiho folks,
just fitted a Webber carb to a 2.25, originally had a Zenith. The zenith had a miss on a long pull and was running very rich, only doing 5 k’s to the litre. Instead of overhauling the worn Zenith I decided to go for a new Webber also putting in lektronic ignition. This is in a S1 107 Stationwagon. Wasn’t sure what thread to put this in because of all the rules and ineligibility of mentioning certain things with the outcome of the post being pulled, hopefully this won’t be pulled because it doesn’t belong in either S1, S2 or S3.
The Webber doesn’t have the power of the Zenith, I’m hoping that’s because it’s running a lot leaner, indications are so far it will be better on fuel. Before even on coldest morning couldn’t use choke or any throttle, it would flood. With the Zenith I could pop it into overdrive at 50 k’s and would roll along nicely. Now it doesn’t feel comfortable changing into o/d less than 70 k’s and doesn’t seem as pull as well.
Maybe just my perception.
What sort of mileage are most of you getting from 2.25 with Webber carbs compared to Zenith?
I had the same issue with a Weber on my S3
I had to go up in main jet size to get the mixture right
Once it was done it runs better than my worn Zenith did
Definitely need choke on cold mornings though!
I can’t remember the jet size, sorry!
Phil B
Custodian of:
1974 S3 swb wagon (sold)
1978 S3 swb canvas
48 749 '88 4x4 Perentie
1985 County with 4BD1T
I put a weber 34ich in my s3 petrol replacing an unidentified flying stromberg. That wasnt all that good going up hill but fine otherwise. Certainly used less fuel.
cheers,
d
1957 88 Petrol (Chumlee)
1960 88 Petrol (Darwin)
1975 88 Diesel (Mutley)
Did you road test the car after you changed the carbie, or the distributor? Or did you fit both and then drive it? This matters, because if you tested each component separately it would indicate which is at fault. If you tested both together it gets more difficult to find the culprit.
First of all what advance curve does the distributor have? Too little advance will result in loss of power. The distributor may have more than one ignition map programmed into it; see what the instructions say. You could also substitute the old distributor and see if the performance changes, or stays the same. It is important to get the ignition system right before fiddling with the carburettor.
When you are satisfied that the ignition system is as good as it can be and the problem still exists, buy a book on the Webber; Pat Braden has written one but it may not have your model Webber in it. Webbers are very easy to change jets on and there is a very good Webber shop in Melbourne, which has all of the parts and expertise. If the mixture is lean it can be changed quite easily and successfully but you will need the book to get it right.
Webber are excellent carburettors and easily the best for Series Rovers, but they are not good on steep inclines I believe,
Cheers Charlie
Thanks for the replies fellas. Both the carb and ignition module were fitted together. I only put pointless module into old distributor, bit sorry as it’s very worn. You can turn the shaft maybe 30 degrees, the advance and retard seem to function ok with vacuum. For double the price of the ignition module I could have fitted a brand new electronic distributor. There are a few available, are they all ok?
i will run the machine for a week or 2 and see how it goes with both mixture and power. I don’t mind the slight decrease in power if it gets better mileage.
If you have a timing light you can shine it on the timing mark, whilst increasing the revs and check that the mark moves. I can't find the specifications in my manual, but at given revs the mark should be at x degrees of advance. This necessitates marking the pulley before you start and ultimately proves if the mechanical advance is working properly.
If you suspect that the carburettor is running lean, this can be verified by checking the spark plugs after a hot run; if they are white it indicates leaness, tan is good; black is rich.
Don't leave it lean, a valve may burn; don't leave it rich the rings will wear and the oil will get diluted and your wallet will suffer,
Cheers Charlie
Thanks Charlie. I have a timing light somewhere but shifted house a year or 2 ago and haven’t fully unpacked yet. When I don’t have access to timing light I used to run engine up to mebe 3000 revs and rotate distributor for best revs. Always seemed to work out ok.
With the mixture I will give it a decent run then check plug colour, I have ordered a new lektronic distributor so will set timing after that’s fitted.
Fitted a new lektronic distributor and timed it by ear to the best revs at about 2500 revs. Drove very smooth and more power than it had before. Then put a timing light on it, the timing mark was about 1.5 inches to the left (looking from the front of the car) of the pointer mounted on the block. Turned the dissy so the mark lined up with the pointer and the revs dropped considerably. Took it for a drive and was flat out getting into overdrive, less power and seems to get hotter quicker. I then loosened the dissy again and timed it to best revs while holding the revs at mebe 2500. Different vehicle, changed into overdrive in a quarter the distance and was back to smooth running.
Marker on block wrong spot? Doesn’t really matter, goes well now so I’ll leave it that way and see how goes it.
Most, if not all, 2.25 engines have the timing marks placed for static timing, not timing with the engine running. If you use them to time with the engine running, spark will be too far retarded (probably).
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
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