Brake Shoe Spring Removal & Re-Fitting

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Originally Posted by gromit

Picked up something similar at the weekend, probably OK on a smaller brake setup where the springs aren't as strong as on the Land Rover.
Mine cost $1 at a Trash & Treasure market so if they don't work it's no big loss. Identical to those in the link below.

BRAKE SPRING PLIER-REMOVES AND INSTALLS BRAKE SPRINGS | eBay



Colin

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Hello Colin,

Yes - I saw a similar pair for sale at one of the main rural parts suppliers here in Bundaberg. It was for sale for $35. After watching those youTube videos I went out again in the dark while armed with a torch. On close inspection the hub overlaps the area where the brake shoe spring is. The second tool, which has the spring twister on the end of its handle may not have sufficient clearance to operate. The video showed the tool goes on square to the mounting point.

The first spring tool the S & P may also require more clearance than what the overlapping hub allows. There is another company called "Laser" who have a clone of the S & P at a more economical price

However, I am following Baldrick's motivation and have the seeds of a "cunning plan, M'Lord" in mind. I will see how it goes together before posting.

Kind Regards
Lionel

I wasn’t joking earlier when I said Vice grips - I’ve only ever used them and have had drum brake vehicles for 30 years. While I’m sure some of these tools would make life easier, if you want to do it with what you may have on hand, I’ve found they work well and have never thought about buying any custom tools to do it, because I’ve never had too many dramas. Would be interested in your feedback on what you buy to see if you find them any good - It may be time to upgrade if they work well as I’m not getting any stronger as I get older. [emoji16][emoji106]

Hello Gav, Colin and All,

I follow your line about using what you have on hand Gav. I also follow the idea that the solution to a problem lies within the problem itself.

Nothing seemed to fit in the clearance space between the hub and the spring mounting point; or had the same flexibility as the spring itself. So I thought to use the characteristics of the brake shoe spring against itself. Add an anchorage point to utilise the smooth transition of force via a thread and Eureka!

I used a 1/4 inch threaded rod that went through an old brake shoe spring and fixed it off near the end with a single hex nut. To limit the stretch of the spring I fitted a washer and another nut to the other end of the spring.

I drilled a 6 mm hole in the middle scrap steel square hollow section so it could be used as a "T" piece.

The free end of the spring was fitted over the top of the fitted shoe spring where it snugs against the mounting post.

I used a length of timber to chock the "T" piece between the backing plate and another to chock the "T" piece against the hub.

I fitted three washers against the back of the steel "T" piece and threaded a nut down to the washers by hand until it was a firm fit.

A ratchet ring spanner was then used to wind down the nut. The force makes the threaded spring tool slide between the fitted spring and the mounting post.

After a nice steady pace of winding the spanner there was a loud "pop"; the brake spring disconnected from the mounting point and the leading brake shoe came free.

Total cost for the threaded rod, washes and nuts equals $4.20

I hope this is of some benefit to others.

I did try and short cut the need to wind in the nut by using the "T" piece as a large handle. The Land Rover started to move on the jack stands and the spring did not come off. After this experience I resorted to the more sedate trial of using a nut on a thread to get the spring off.

Kind Regards
Lionel