Thanks Mick, already got the chain etc from Turners. Interestingly enough some of the bits i got from them, Valve guides for instance, were Allmakes. I'll check out the ring finder
Quote:
Originally Posted by mick88
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Thanks Mick, already got the chain etc from Turners. Interestingly enough some of the bits i got from them, Valve guides for instance, were Allmakes. I'll check out the ring finder
Quote:
Originally Posted by mick88
You should take the block as well & get it measured incase the bore is tapered also the pistons . May be get the block diped in the chemical barth to clean out the water jackets . If the bores are OK if you don't have a cylinder hone get them to hone it to take the glaze off the bore . If you have gone this far you mite as well get it all checked by your engine guy.
I got my bits from Bearmach on the internet. it was a bit of mucking around but once you open an account the site works reasonably well. They have a great selection of engine and gearbox parts.
I would get the crank measured before buying bearings, you might need bigger than 10 thou. if the ring was broken before you removed it ( like one of mine was ) it will most likely be due to slop in the ring groove. If you put the ring in backwards and there is slop in the ring going up and down the ring groove will be worn out. Most likely caused by dirt entering the engine through the carby.
Bearmach has lots of little bits as well so if you need cam retainer or oil pressure springs etc they are listed.
Valves and guides are very cheap if you are getting work done on the head.
I would be checking the oil pump as well for wear in the gears as it looks like dirt has gone through the pump.
Remember cleanliness is the key to good engine building.
Good luck
Ian
Bittern
Thanks for the advice,
I've got a replacement pump so looks like I'm on the right track. Got the head and new valve seats in the car to take the machine shop, also the crank and No1 piston, the most worn of the lot.
It looks to me like a bit of crud has fallen down the oil way from the camshaft gallery and scored the crank. The damage is in line with the oil way. Not a bad idea regarding the block, a good clean up certainly wouldn't hurt and to be honest if i take all the pistons/cranks they can get some shells and match them all up. Probably heaps easier and not much more expensive. Fortunately the main bearings all look good so standards straight back in there I think. Just need to get the oder in before the end of the month and the tax change!
When you take your parts to the engine guy leave the bearings in the rods so they can see the wear marks they may need to align the rods if they have worn more on one side than the other.
They can tell by the worn components what may need doing. I remember when I worked in the motor industry & we had a motor pulled down for Repco to come & measure the motor the guy would pick up a piston & look at it , he could tell from the look of the piston weather the vehicle had sports filters . After that I never used sports filters again .
Thanks, yes all booked in. The cylinder head is there at the moment getting a new set of seats and a clean and whilst I'm putting that back together he can do the bearings, and pots on the block. I replaced the guides first with a home made extractor which I'm particularly proud of, bit agricultural but did the job.
Ive got a set of shell bearings and pistons on the way, (010 and 020 bearings) I was tempted to just re ring the pistons but the ring grooves were out of tolerance and new pistons weren't that much more than decent rings, just have to see how much the re bore costs. So looks like we are getting there. Just hope she doesn't check the credit card reciepts!
Tempting to get a spin on filter, given the amount of crud in the oil, but engineer recons, changed at the correct intervals of course, the old canister ones as still pretty good. And they are about another $200. No sports filters then!!
There is n reason why the cartridge filter should be any less (or more) effective than a spin-on - the element is made in exactly the same way. In both cases the quality of filter may well vary according to supplier!
Well Cylinder head came back nicely machined, with Turners valve seats installed and a polish all round, pretty pleased. I drifted new valve guides in prior to taking it to the machine shop. The rockers were in good order but the shaft was badly scored so glad i got a replacement.Attachment 142893Attachment 142891Attachment 142892
Cable ties,, such a great little invention [thumbsupbig]
Looking good.
Picked up the cable tie trick from youtube, some Pommie chap with an ex army SIII, nice trick, stopped the rockers pinging across the workshop! For some reason I can't see my photos so I'm hoping I'm not duplicating. all the oil ways and shims in the rockers were good and clear so didn't need to change anything there. So it all went together quite easily with new guides, with little help from the heat gun and freezer. Most of my issues are head related so although they were probably Ok i replaced all the springs and new Turner valves (Bought 4 too many so if you need any they are i the for sale section - Trust that doesn't count as selling in the forum, apologies if it does)
The Block came back from the machine shop, David Galloway in Pinjarra, if any WA owners are looking, very good and I was very pleased with the price. He had bathed the block, rebored the pots to +010 and the same with the crank. Really didn't take enough photos. He also replaced the Cam shaft bearings, how they manage that is a complete mystery to me, must have someone in the workshop with really really skinny arms.
Attachment 142923Attachment 142924Attachment 142925
