I put a 200TDI and LT77 into an 88.
Had to use an electric fan but the rad and intercooler fitted OK. Gas bonnet prop. Its my daily drive.
Thread here.
Another project "Binatang"
Keith
I put a 200TDI and LT77 into an 88.
Had to use an electric fan but the rad and intercooler fitted OK. Gas bonnet prop. Its my daily drive.
Thread here.
Another project "Binatang"
Keith
Thanks Gents - I really do appreciate your replies. They have been useful and led me to further informations.
I have checked out Steve Parkers website and the Ashcroft Sites.
I contacted Ashcroft via phone and email and via phone I got the 'please send us an email' answer... so I emailed and still have had no reply... a little disappointing considering I was considering dumping near on $3000+ into their bank account for a Gearbox, Bell Housing and fit kit.
I have searched high and low but what I can't find is a complete Series 2A with inboard headlights that has a 300tdi with an R380 on a series transfer without moving the front rad support and having the gearstick emerge from the factory position.
Maybe it is a pipe dream and it hasn't been done although I was certain I had read and seen pics online of this done before. If the vehicle were a S3 I am convinced it would work.
Colin, we have briefly met before at your place. My friend bought some seals from you for his ex army S3 and my father and I came along with him for the drive.
To be honest, I am putting a new chassis under a S2a Carawagon and am looking for the above set up for this vehicle.
I want to use the vehicle. It will mostly visit high country VIC for camping trips - nothing hardcore, but as you are probably aware, the high country is hard on drivelines of vehicles, the Carawagon is heavy and I don't trust that the Series gearbox would survive with the 300tdi hence the desire to mate it to a 5 speed.
Do it once, do it properly and spend the rest of time attending to the usual Landy failures rather than major ones like blown gearboxes is my line of thinking.
I'd love to get my hands on a R380 or LT77 box with stumpy housing just to trial measure with my chassis and engine so I could get exact measures against the firewall and the rad support panel to see what kind of haircut they may need and what mods I need to make.
Cheers,
Darren
0429 071 227
Cheers,
Darren
I remember selling the O-rings and that there was a couple of other people that came along so I must have met you, I must be getting old......
Have you worked out the cost of engineering these modifications ?
Remember that 'in period' these vehicles were used in the High Country etc.etc. with the original motor/gearbox without issue.
My Dormobile is keeping the original motor but there was a 300Tdi conversion to a Dormobile if I remember correctly (contact Jerry, user name jerryd). Original gearbox can be used if you run without the turbo and/or are careful how you drive it but you'd probably want to reco it first.
If you want to keep up with modern traffic the 200 or 300Tdi makes life easier and gives better fuel economy but it's not a fast run once you are in the High Country.
There are other conversions, maybe look for a project vehicle that has an alternative diesel motor and swap that into yours. You'd still have the engineering costs though. My C240 Isuzu powered Series III is quite fast, it keeps up with the traffic on the Freeway but a bit slow up hills. I've found a number of these conversions, all originally LWB but mine was transplanted into a shorty along with a high ratio transfer box.
I intend to get it up into the High Country soon......
A few picture missing thanks to Photobucket Isuzu C240 powered Series 3
If you want to see what the C240 performs like let me know although you might struggle to find another similar motor. I have a spare but it's my spares donor plus I don't know it's condition.
Colin
'56 Series 1 with homemade welder
'65 Series IIa Dormobile
'70 SIIa GS
'76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
'81 SIII FFR
'95 Defender Tanami
'58 Series II (sold)
Motorcycles :-
Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C
Not quite the same as what you intend, but an interesting project. From LRO magazine article on the web.
If Bowler built Series I Land Rovers…
May 17, 2016 Calum Brown
FEATURE_VEHICLE_BowlerSeries1V61.jpg
What's the story?
It looks like a Series I. It putters and purrs a bit like a Series I. But something about this ‘1957 Series I 88-inch’ just isn’t stacking up. They’re Defender wheels and drive flanges; that chassis doesn’t look like any ‘88’ I’ve ever seen… and why am I getting six-cylinder Jaguar engine noises from a fat exhaust pipe on the ‘wrong’ side?
The answers to these conundrums stem from an unusual brief that landed in rally raid specialist Bowler Motorsport’s inbox, to create a unique Series I. Bowler’s Jon Chester explains: ‘There were three key things… The famous picture of Sir Winston Churchill with his 86-inch Series I ‘UKE 80’ – “That’s cool”, said the person commissioning the project; it had to be British military Desert Sand colour; and “I’d like a Series I that I can actually drive, with sensible brakes, steering, etc.”’ Challenge accepted.
Drew Bowler and his team shortened a TDCi Defender 90 chassis and adapted it to suit the Series I body, which would tick the ‘sensible steering and brakes’ boxes, and take the running gear needed to handle more than 200bhp (see below).
Initially, standard-width Defender axles were going to be used, with flared arches to cover the tyres, but it didn’t look Series I enough, so Bowler narrowed the axles by 60mm each side. The 7.50 R16 Michelin tyres now fill the arches neatly, but taking so much width out of the axles meant the suspension had to be redesigned with a bespoke coil-over set-up. An incredible amount of effort and ingenuity has gone into this project.
At the moment it’s a one-off, but Bowler hasn’t completely ruled-out building more, if there’s enough demand for them.
Our favourite bit?
The near-350% power increase over the Series I’s original 52bhp… That’s where the 230bhp AJV6 petrol engine from a Jaguar X-type comes in. Jon Chester says: ‘We wanted it to look as “factory” as possible, and we knew it could run things like power-steering and air-conditioning that the customer wanted. Plus, we didn’t want to have to tune something and make it unreliable.’ That almost sounds sensible.
And the verdict from LRO editor Mike Goodbun?
I’m not a huge fan of modernising classics; you too often end up with something that’s neither charmingly old, nor convincingly modern, but this strikes a brilliant balance. From the V6’s fuelly rasp to the nicely weighted steering, everything feels and sounds ‘period’.
TECH SPEC
Body: 1957 Series I 88in soft-top
Chassis: Shortened TDCi Defender 90
Engine: 2967cc Jaguar X-type V6, 24-valve, variable valve timing
Power & torque: 231bhp, 209lb ft
Transmission: Permanent 4WD, R380 five-speed manual gearbox, LT230 transfer box, shortened rear propshaft, narrowed Defender 90 live axles
Suspension: Coil-overs all-round, modified front radius arms
Steering: Modified Discovery 2 power-assisted
Brakes: Defender 90 discs and calipers
Wheels & tyres: Defender rims, 7.50 R16 Michelin Latitude Cross
0-60mph: less than 10sec (est)
Contact: bowlermotorsport.com, 01773 824 111
Hi
Having recently dropped a 200tdi/ 5 speed lt77 with the Ashcroft kit into a Series 3 109 I can probably offer some sensible advice on this conversion:
- Found that 200/300 tdi conversions are documented as a common upgrade to Series vehicles but trawling the internet for relevant information and photos is challenging for number of reasons including misinformation from bro scientists/ armchair mechanics out there on social media platforms + commercial interest
- Make sure you have appropriate motivation, passion, time and budget to start with. If dealing with Ashcroft their price doesn’t include import duties and you will get stung extra 10% via customs for example
- Get the Series 3 workshop manual, it’s a very valuable tool and source of correct information relating to the vehicle despite the different motors same guiding principles (see point one no computers required). The 200/300tdi cast engine blocks are the same as the older 2.5 and original petrol/diesel ones therefore the engineering and physics principles are same
- Electrically it’s not too difficult I recommend putting the battery under passenger seat, + runs directly to the starter/ alternator to ignition which is really simple. I see aftermarket looms being flogged for ridiculous prices when all you need is, do some homework get sorted in your head so you can wire up yourself provided the factory loom hasn’t been too spliced up and/or modded by previous owners over the years
- According to Ashcroft the preferred method of dropping in a 200/300 tdi is moving the engine forward however I went the other way and used the original engine mounts that pushes the gearbox back 102mm. There is space at the front to move the engine forward but I didn’t want to compromise the Series 3 frontend and serviceability of the belts etc and its touch and go with the radiator being around the 100mm mark or so. In my opinion this method puts the gearstick in perfect position (not road tested yet) but there is some closer interaction between handbrake lever and 2/4wd lever but it’s not really worth flagging as an issue. This whole process requires very little/ no modifications to the chassis and just a few small cuts to the birmabright flooring to accommodate the new lever positions. Also will need to get propshafts overhauled and lengthened at front and shortened at back, there are plenty of places that can do this mine was about $800. This is fine for a 109 but if you are wasting time on an 88 your back prop may be compromised due to shortening and angle. Imo its pointless wasting a perfectly good tdi on an obsolete 88 but whatever floats your boat. They ‘re at least better than those ridiculous japcrap Toyota shorty’s aussie yobbos love so much, anyway I digress.
That’s just some thoughts about it, I’m still finishing up on mine so it’s just theory till it can be road/ trail tested of course. I’ve got a photo library where I have been putting progress photos etc as I goShared album - James Robbie - Google Photos. I would recommend doing this as you learn so much and grow to appreciate how brilliant these vehicles are particularly considering the era and technology from which they were built. In the end you get a reliable low maintenance, fuel efficient turbo diesel that’s a stronger superior drivetrain to most modern throw away vehicles with all the crappy electrical dog bollocks weak diffs and scrap pot metal leafs.
Again some of views presented here merely my opinion as such should be taken or not taken as advisory only, thanks
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