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Thread: The smell of petrol ... and an odd tank

  1. #1
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    The smell of petrol ... and an odd tank

    Hi All
    Getting into the garage was slow going, chain block, link at a time … and plenty of room to spare.
    IMG_6602.jpg IMG_6605.jpg IMG_6609.jpg

    The first couple of weeks have been poking around with a torch, screw driver, wire brush etc … just getting to know her.
    Had some time to kill so got out some light cutting compound:
    IMG_6617.jpg

    I picked up a battery and some fuel on the weekend, new fuel lines, in-line filter and a tap on the starter motor worked a treat, idling along nicely.
    Another hour or so tinkering, came up for dinner, settled in with a red wine when the family complaints started … a strong petrol smell. Went back downstairs and the tank was dripping away steadily. I managed to get the drain plug moving and emptied it out but the smell persisted. Google points at vinegar and baking soda … only really made it smell like vinegar mixed with petrol.
    But seeing as the tank needs a look, I dropped it out this afternoon.
    IMG_6678.jpg

    It's one of those "L" shaped ones, is this typical of a S3 SWB?
    Plenty of bog, silicon and rust on the tank, the bash plate has had bits tacked on to keep it together, not much worth salvaging there except maybe as a pattern.
    Not sure about the tank though. Might dig/grind/chip the bog away to have a look but I'm open to swapping it out.
    Wife's saying get a new one (she doesn't want another leak!!) but I can only find new square ones. I'm googling but these "L" ones but not many around.
    What should it have? Square or "L"? Assume the front support would need altering if I go square, given it's shorter. I cant find any pics of the front support for a square tank, is it just another outrigger with a plate ledge support to bolt onto about level with the gearbox cross member?
    Ta
    Richard

    Update: I found the outrigger I don't have on the chassis drawings, and a place that sells them … but it still means a weld attachment. Also found a couple of old tanks on the interweb the same shape as mine, so that's positive I guess. Decision still: add outrigger and new smaller square tank ($$$) or fix/track down "L" tank ($$).

  2. #2
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    Some of the bigger Land Rover suppliers can get the large (16 gallon) tanks made.
    The only ones you tend to find on the UK sites are the smaller (10 gallon) ones.

    Series 16 gallon tanks

    From the thread above they were $550 last year at Four Wheel Drives in Hallam, VIC. A sheetmetal fabricator could make one using your old one as a pattern.

    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '58 Series II (sold)
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C

  3. #3
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    I would be stripping it down and repairing it. Same with the support guard.

    Aaron

  4. #4
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    Thanks Colin and Aaron
    I didn’t find that post on the 16 gallon tanks ... need to improve my forum search skills.
    I might clean up the existing tank and see how bad it is under all the fill and patches. The back 3/4 of the support plate might be salvageable. It’s the leading edge that is shot.
    I think the final decision will be $$ based ... depends how much repair can be done for about $600.
    I’ll post some pics of the decision points.
    Cheers
    Richard

  5. #5
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    The 16 gallon tanks come up for sale from time to time. The tank youve shown is a genuine land rover tank. The support plate underneath always came off as they were only soldered to the tank. The dirt and dust over the years would build up and rust the tanks out. The steel wasnt very thick either. The aftermarket type tanks were generally made of heavier steel and lasted a lot longer if they were made right, ie the mount bracket plates fully seam welded to the tank so no dirt gets in and rusts the tank out. If you look closely at ur chassis you will probably find where the original 10 gallon tank bracket was removed. Looks like a really nice shorty you have there. Well worth spending a few dollars on to get it driving again.
    Cheers Rod.
    Pic of my s2a with dual 16 gallon tanks.


  6. #6
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    Hi Rod
    Love the symmetry of yours ...
    You’re right, I did find a light scar where the outrigger would have been. 16 gallons has got to be better than 10 ... right? And 32, well ?! What a range!! Hmmm.
    I think I’ll stick to 16 at the moment though.
    Thanks
    Richard

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by RichardJ View Post
    Hi Rod
    Love the symmetry of yours ...
    You’re right, I did find a light scar where the outrigger would have been. 16 gallons has got to be better than 10 ... right? And 32, well ?! What a range!! Hmmm.
    I think I’ll stick to 16 at the moment though.
    Thanks
    Richard
    Once you get it repaired, give it a good clean out with caustic, then degreaser and hot water, then ensure it is completely dry.
    I usually put a heat gun in them for a while if the weather is not hot enough to do the job.
    Finally line it with PVC Joining Solvent.
    If welding or soldering becomes an issue they can be repaired/patched with a piece of stainless or aluminium sheet, some blind pop rivets and a good fuel/oil resistant gasket compound. Then apply the PVC Solvent liner. I have done this, it works.

    Cheers, Mick.
    1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
    1971 S2A 88
    1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
    1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
    1972 S3 88 x 2
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
    1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
    REMLR 88
    1969 BSA Bantam B175

  8. #8
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    Oops ... pm’d my reply instead of to the thread.

    Thanks Mick
    Will do. I dropped it in to Greg at Fuel Tank and Radiator Services in Brisbane this morning. I think he sees a few of these old series tanks. He’s going to cut off the base and half way up the ends, replace it with thicker steel then salvage the ends of the bash plate and weld the mounts onto the new ends. Should end up good as new.
    I’ll post some before and after pics when I get it home.
    What’s the best paint regime for a fuel tank? Would a primer then normal spray can enamel be suitable? Would it need something tougher underneath for stone protection (given it won’t have a bash plate as such anymore)?
    Cheers
    Richard

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