Thoughts on Converting Vac Boosted to non boosted (manual) brakes

**goingbush** · 17th December 2018, 08:19 AM

Originally Posted by Lewy110

I don't see why it wouldn't work. I roll down my driveway at about 5-10kmh with the car off and it pulls up to a stop without needing a great deal of pressure.

Pretty much the same thing you are doing. Could you just blank off the vacuum pipes?

Yes but the pedal is harder than it needs to be due to the effort of pushing the diaphragm & spring enclosed in the booster.

Maybe I'll add a switch just to turn the pump off . But Im keen to remove un-nescessary junk.

**goingbush** · 17th December 2018, 08:23 AM

Originally Posted by 123rover50

I am doing much like this with my 2B FC. There is no room under the short bonnet for the booster on the MC tower. I want dual circuit so I am bolting the dual MC direct to the tower then the twin pipes to the shuttle valve thing then to the VH40 boosters one to each axle. You could do this but leave out the boosters.
I just bought a short tandem master from the brake place on Friday.
I did this on the 6x6 I made into a FC years ago doing the same thing but using the big Ford MC bolted to the tower without the booster and using three remote boosters . Its been working for years.

Keith

Thats an idea , what diameter bore is the Master cyl you bought, I might go down a size from standard.

**67hardtop** · 17th December 2018, 09:45 AM

Why dont u fit a vac tank? Then the pump should only work once in a while? Just a thought.

Cheers Rod

**goingbush** · 17th December 2018, 10:27 AM

Originally Posted by 67hardtop

Why dont u fit a vac tank? Then the pump should only work once in a while? Just a thought.

Cheers Rod

Good thought, If I can find somewhere to mount a suitable vacuum canister I'll give that a try.

**JDNSW** · 17th December 2018, 11:07 AM

I'm not sue why you consider the dual braking system necessary, considering it is hardly used - and for the purposes you need (to hold and for the last few km/hr, the handbrake should be adequate as an emergency backup. (I have driven hundreds of thousands of kilometres over the last sixty years in vehicles with single circuit brakes and have never suffered a brake failure)

**goingbush** · 17th December 2018, 11:53 AM

Originally Posted by JDNSW

I'm not sue why you consider the dual braking system necessary, considering it is hardly used - and for the purposes you need (to hold and for the last few km/hr, the handbrake should be adequate as an emergency backup. (I have driven hundreds of thousands of kilometres over the last sixty years in vehicles with single circuit brakes and have never suffered a brake failure)

Good Point , The vehicle is a Series 3 ( Dec 1973) and one of the first with dual circuit and shuttle valve . I never had any problems with Series 1& 2A non assisted single circuit brakes , ever. I assumed the dual circuit were required under ADR's and I just looked up the relevant document and it seems single circuit will be OK .

My 2013 Iveco 4x4 has a split system and a rear line broke , great help the dual circuit was , I lost all brakes anyway, And a few fellow Iveco owners have experienced the same thing.

**goingbush** · 17th December 2018, 01:02 PM

Hmm , then theres this .

LAND ROVER BRAKE BIAS SERVO REPLACEMENT PEDAL BOX WITH KIT A | eBay

**LRJim** · 17th December 2018, 01:13 PM

If it helps my s3 lwb is a 75 with a single circuit, with boosted brakes and a 186 conversion done legit.
Cheers Jim

**MarkM** · 18th December 2018, 10:05 AM

And early S3 SWB was single circuit non-boosted from the factory.
Mark

**101RRS** · 18th December 2018, 10:43 AM

Originally Posted by MarkM

And early S3 SWB was single circuit non-boosted from the factory.
Mark

My 72 Series 3 was single circuit but boosted from the factory.

Thread: Thoughts on Converting Vac Boosted to non boosted (manual) brakes

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