Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 27

Thread: Stage one v8 engine rebuild

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Canberra Australia
    Posts
    14,910
    Lets not divert too far from Tim's original thread.

    But the colour is unique to the RAN and is common to all RAN vehicles from late 60s to mid 80s - should have a white roof but I believe that LR had a similar colour.

    As said the vehicles were Commonwealth vehicles with Z plates and did not use the Army's ARN system. All Commonwealth vehicles were actually owned by the Department of Admin and allocated to various Departments such as the Navy - as REMLR has found you are unlikely to find any specific records and anything that comes up is likely to be in old newspapers etc.

    As a 4wd vehicle they tended to be used in remote areas or with units that deployed to remote areas. So the Stage 1 was often found at places like the gunnery ranges, with the Diving Teams and places like NW Cape, Darwin and Cairns (but they tended to use Mokes) and the RAN Air Station.

    Most vehicles would not have been modified but some may have had winches etc for use in remote locations. Some Diving Team vehicles may have red mudguards if they were designated to carry explosives.

    Note these were not Military Vehicles like Army Landrovers but were civilian versions used by the Navy. I do not recall the RAAF using Stage 1s but I cannot be sure.

    You will find it hard to get any specific history as these were not considered anything special at the time.

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Canberra Australia
    Posts
    14,910
    Quote Originally Posted by Summiitt View Post
    Just after some thoughts, my stage one clutch exploded yesterday and needs either the box or engine pulled. Ive never been impressed with the performance of this vehicle, particularly when compared to my other stage one which hauls ass!
    Im thinking of pulling the engine out and doing a rebuild, Id like to up the power, but haven't got a huge budget..just wondering do I go a worked 3.5, 3.9 or 4l+ any thoughts from practical experience and approx costs would be appreciated. Current motor is a standard 3.5 carby with electronic ignition.
    So Tim what are your intentions?

    All I can say is that is you recondition your engine it will cost more than you think - however they are easy to rebuild and parts are freely available.

    i would be tempted to go a 3.9 and use its basic injection system which has a simple ECU etc and can be connected up with not much mucking around.

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Yanchep Western Australia
    Posts
    318

    Smile

    Thanks Gary and sorry Tim for hijacking your thread slightly. Now back on task after Gary has been kind enough to full fill my needs.

    I agree with what Garry has advised if you are going to rebuild your 3.5. I went down the 3.9 path as it was easier to source parts and it is a very useable engine in a Stage One. The LT95 gearbox in mine has stood up well so far with the extra power that my 3.9 has feeding through it. I have done about 40 000kms with the rebuilt motor and gearbox and am very happy that I have done it.

    If you do inject it I think you will be very happy. My Holley is nice but a fuel injected 3.9 in a Stage One would be awesome! As Gary said probably the way to go if you can source a simple ECU system. Mine still uses the original drum brakes all round which is one of the things you have to keep on top of when you have the sort of power available through a warm 3.9. It would be awesome to have disks all round to match the performance of the engine but that can take you down another path which I have ventured but decided to turn back and just maintain my drums well.

    I have no intention on selling my Stage One either otherwise I wouldn't have spent the sort of money that it did cost to pretty much rebuild the entire drive train. As Gary said you will be surprised how much it does cost to rebuild a Rover V8. Mine was off the road for close to 2 years and it didn't take long to get over 10K by the time it was back together. I did put in new seats and reconditioned the steering as well plus a couple of other big ticket items like some Wolf rims and new tyres etc.

    It is interesting to see how much people are asking for good examples of these vehicles at the moment. I saw a very nice 1984 tray back ute on Gumtree today for $25K. Not sure if it will fetch that price but it looks like a beautiful vehicle. Some images below.

    While mine is not cosmetically as beautiful as the images below it is still in good nick for its age and I always have a smile on my face when all 4 barrels on the Holley are wide open and the extractors expel the gasses out of the 3 inch single exhaust system!

    What is the condition of your Stage One Tim?

    Regards Warrick.







    "Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex....It takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction."
    Albert Einstein.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Burra NSW
    Posts
    779
    All good on the hijack, interesting to see where the stage ones came from. Ive got a quote for $7500 on a full rebuild (I pull it out) but they have given me options of high compression, 3.9, 4.2,4.6, stroked..
    My budget is 10k all done with new clutch ect, the ute is in such fantastic original condition, that I'm cool with spending some cash on it, but I want birds to fly away and people to turn and look when I take off from the lights.. perhaps a ZF auto down the track..
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Canberra Australia
    Posts
    14,910
    I would definitely go high comp (but you will need higher octane fuel) - if they are using your old block then 3.9 and 4.2 (stroker crank) are good options. Making a 4.6 out of a 3.5 block is more problematic as machining of the block is needed to get a 4.6 crank in and the 3.5 block is not quite as strong as the 4.0/4.6 block which can take four bolt mains (crank bearing caps).

    But yes there are options.

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Bunbury, WA
    Posts
    1,662
    TimNZ on here is putting a 3.9l v8 in his stage 1 wagon at the moment. I'm sure he would answer any PM'd questions.
    Cheers, Chris.
    Chris


    2014 D4 TDV6
    1954 86" (I'll finish it one day.....)
    1980 Stage 1 v8

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    australia
    Posts
    934
    Quote Originally Posted by garrycol View Post
    So Tim what are your intentions?

    All I can say is that is you recondition your engine it will cost more than you think - however they are easy to rebuild and parts are freely available.

    i would be tempted to go a 3.9 and use its basic injection system which has a simple ECU etc and can be connected up with not much mucking around.

    Garry
    hi gary this stage 1 here has the original 3.5 moter stillwas running when stood up there was a fault in reverse gear do you think the best way to go is part it out regards jim
    Russell Rovers
    Series I Parts Specialists
    russellrovers AT gmail.com
    Phone 0428732001

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Yanchep Western Australia
    Posts
    318
    Quote Originally Posted by Summiitt View Post
    All good on the hijack, interesting to see where the stage ones came from. Ive got a quote for $7500 on a full rebuild (I pull it out) but they have given me options of high compression, 3.9, 4.2,4.6, stroked..
    My budget is 10k all done with new clutch ect, the ute is in such fantastic original condition, that I'm cool with spending some cash on it, but I want birds to fly away and people to turn and look when I take off from the lights.. perhaps a ZF auto down the track..
    Looks like a very nice Stage One Truck Cab Tim.

    I would go 3.9 or 4.2 and keep the LT95. I was told by my mechanic who has done it, not to go for the 4.6 as the transfer case on the LT95 will be the weak link in the drive train with that sort of power pushing through it. I was toying with the idea of putting a 5 speed box in mine out of a Discovery but I ended up changing the ratio of the gears in the LT95. I can easily sit on 110kmh all day and she just coasts along. In fact I can pull it up to 110kmh in third if I am loving the sound of the Rover V8 in full cry.

    I also put a shorter shift gate in the LT95 which feels much nicer than the original set up when pulling through the gears. I do run 98 octane fuel in my 3.9 because it is so much more responsive when you open up the throttle and if I drive it sensibly you do get better economy and even though it is more expensive than 95 it sort of evens out.

    If you put a warm 3.9 or 4.2 in your Truck Cab with a nice exhaust system you will be very happy with the sound that comes out when you open it up. My exhaust exits out of the passenger side just before the rear wheel (image below). She revs and sounds brilliant when you open up the taps with high octane fuel detonating in it! More than enough noise to scare birds and for people to turn and look when I take off from the lights

    That's my 2 cents anyway. Look forward to seeing what you do.

    Regards Warrick.

    "Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex....It takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction."
    Albert Einstein.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Canberra Australia
    Posts
    14,910
    Quote Originally Posted by wpalmo View Post
    I was told by my mechanic who has done it, not to go for the 4.6 as the transfer case on the LT95 will be the weak link in the drive train with that sort of power pushing through it.
    Hi Warrick - I assume the view of your mechanic is an assumption rather than knowledge of failures. I know of a few LT95s behind 4.6s and they have no problems. The LT95 (gearbox and tfr case) will easily handle a 4.6 - it is not the power that could cause problems but torque which is just a little more than what is produced in a Turbo 6x6 Perentie - though upgrading to tapered bearings in the tfr case might be an option (like they did in the perenties).

    I agree though that for a Stage 1 a 3.9 or if you can get a 4.2 crank (rare and expensive) would be the way to go.

    I think with Tim's Stage 1 these are now in Classic Car territory so originality starts to become an issue, so keeping the old block with its engine number becomes important.

    So if I were Tim, I would be taking the 3.5 out to 3.9 bores and if he can get a stroker (4.2) crank then put that in - makes a 4.2 and put the 3.9 CUIX injection manifold on and use the associated ECU (can be tweeked) - so has a nice engine, with a decent increase in power, engine is essentially still original and if required at a later date, the injection manifold taken off and the carbs/manifold can go back on for total originality.

    Cheers

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Burra NSW
    Posts
    779
    Thanks for the ideas, I forgot to mention that this ute already has Range Rover transfer gears, so it sits on 100-110 with no problems, but the asthmatic 3.5 has trouble holding it on a hill.
    I think your both right, 3.9 or stroked. Ive already had the exhaust done to the y piece, and they will do the extractors once the engine is out.

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!