That is what I was also taught as a apprentice motor mechanic.:bangin:Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigbjorn
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That is what I was also taught as a apprentice motor mechanic.:bangin:Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigbjorn
You still have the stud length issue though. Though I run D1 steel wheels on my series with the short studs with no apparent issues.Quote:
Originally Posted by 87County
Re your question about wheel studs and nuts.
On the Perenties with standard rims the studs barely make it to the end of the nut and they are legal/pass RWC's.
Are you aware that there is a longer 16 mm (Series 3 type) wheel stud available to suit?
Paddock in the UK have them listed.
Cheers, Mick.
some photos of my 130 with wolf rims...studs seem to short but that's how it came out of the factory.
Attachment 155011 Attachment 155012 Attachment 155013
Cheers Paul
I think the number of threads in engagement is more important.
A std Rover nut is deeper than an ISO nut, if the no. of threads engaged is equal or more than a standard nut it should be ok even if the stud doesn't protrude.
Terry
Update on my wheel/tyre journey ...
I had the tyres removed by the local BJTM and picked the wheels up this arvo.
They do seem like an old dodgy powder coat on some of them so a bit of chemical stripping then wire wheel might be the go there. Some flakey rust too but hopefully still pretty sound.
When talking with the dude there he also said 5.5 and 235's are a no go ... BUT he then went to get his wheel calipers and it appears that 272309 5.5Fx16 are actually 6" when measured in todays money. Go figure. Must have changed inches sometimes since the late 60's ... or the way they measure wheels perhaps.
So all good with a 235/85R16.
He did say that I need to run tubes ... no biggy I guess but given I'd read plenty about tubeless tyres going fine on old rims and that the tyres that were on them were tubeless.
Worth getting a second opinion on that??
Thanks all for the refurb advice and info on the other wheel options, its great having advice like this for a newbie. Typically I do things a couple of times, but I'm enjoying the journey and learning a lot as I go … second one will be easier :-)
Working on "Plan D" … tidy up current ones and see how they go.
Cheers
Richard
Stud length - worth pointing out that Series Landrovers with 9/16" studs and standard double sided nuts had the end of the stud about three threads in - and were presumably legal from 1948-1970. These have the advantage that there is no exposed thread to rust or get damaged. And, of course, the nuts are about twice the thickness of a single sided nut.
Definitely don't need to run tubes . thats been covered in another recent post. Insist he fit them tubeless , even riveted rims hold air better than tubes do.
That is pretty much like what the stud & nut protrusion looks like on my series with D1 steel wheels.Quote:
Originally Posted by bemm52
C
Are you referring to cheap tubes ? All mine run tubes, pressure rarely if ever drops.Quote:
Originally Posted by goingbush
A bigger issue if using the vehicle seriously with lowered tyre pressures is the valve stem ripping off as the tyre rotates on the rim.
Colin
