Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 25

Thread: Wheels, tyres and studs ... again

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Westlake ,brisbane
    Posts
    3,922
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Bigbjorn View Post
    Referring to stud length. As apprentice fitter-machinists we had it drummed into us "three threads through." Still burnt into my memory sixty years later.
    That is what I was also taught as a apprentice motor mechanic.

  2. #12
    cjc_td5's Avatar
    cjc_td5 is offline ChatterBox Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Bunbury, WA
    Posts
    2,436
    Total Downloaded
    0
    You still have the stud length issue though. Though I run D1 steel wheels on my series with the short studs with no apparent issues.
    Quote Originally Posted by 87County View Post
    The other readily and cheaply available "tubeless" rim that will fit the larger width tyres without question is the standard D1 rim
    Chris


    2014 D4 TDV6
    1954 86"
    1963 2A Forward Control (getting the full treatment, Isuzu 4JH1, MYY5T, LT230, Toyota Axles, extended cab ++)
    1980 Stage 1 v8 (gone)

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Irymple, Victoria, Australia
    Posts
    2,900
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Re your question about wheel studs and nuts.
    On the Perenties with standard rims the studs barely make it to the end of the nut and they are legal/pass RWC's.

    Are you aware that there is a longer 16 mm (Series 3 type) wheel stud available to suit?
    Paddock in the UK have them listed.

    Cheers, Mick.
    1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
    1971 S2A 88
    1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
    1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
    1972 S3 88 x 2
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
    1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
    REMLR 88
    1969 BSA Bantam B175

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    East Gippsland
    Posts
    990
    Total Downloaded
    0
    some photos of my 130 with wolf rims...studs seem to short but that's how it came out of the factory.

    IMG_5092.jpg IMG_5096.jpg IMG_8136.jpg

    Cheers Paul

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Bruthen, Eastern Vic.
    Posts
    836
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I think the number of threads in engagement is more important.
    A std Rover nut is deeper than an ISO nut, if the no. of threads engaged is equal or more than a standard nut it should be ok even if the stud doesn't protrude.
    Terry
    80 109" 2.6 P ex Army GS, saved from the scrappie.
    95 300tdi 130 Single cab tray.
    2010 Guzzi 750

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    42
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Update on my wheel/tyre journey ...
    I had the tyres removed by the local BJTM and picked the wheels up this arvo.
    They do seem like an old dodgy powder coat on some of them so a bit of chemical stripping then wire wheel might be the go there. Some flakey rust too but hopefully still pretty sound.

    When talking with the dude there he also said 5.5 and 235's are a no go ... BUT he then went to get his wheel calipers and it appears that 272309 5.5Fx16 are actually 6" when measured in todays money. Go figure. Must have changed inches sometimes since the late 60's ... or the way they measure wheels perhaps.
    So all good with a 235/85R16.

    He did say that I need to run tubes ... no biggy I guess but given I'd read plenty about tubeless tyres going fine on old rims and that the tyres that were on them were tubeless.
    Worth getting a second opinion on that??

    Thanks all for the refurb advice and info on the other wheel options, its great having advice like this for a newbie. Typically I do things a couple of times, but I'm enjoying the journey and learning a lot as I go … second one will be easier :-)

    Working on "Plan D" … tidy up current ones and see how they go.
    Cheers
    Richard

  7. #17
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is online now RoverLord Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central West NSW
    Posts
    28,805
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Stud length - worth pointing out that Series Landrovers with 9/16" studs and standard double sided nuts had the end of the stud about three threads in - and were presumably legal from 1948-1970. These have the advantage that there is no exposed thread to rust or get damaged. And, of course, the nuts are about twice the thickness of a single sided nut.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Yarrawonga, Vic
    Posts
    6,513
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Definitely don't need to run tubes . thats been covered in another recent post. Insist he fit them tubeless , even riveted rims hold air better than tubes do.

  9. #19
    cjc_td5's Avatar
    cjc_td5 is offline ChatterBox Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Bunbury, WA
    Posts
    2,436
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by bemm52 View Post
    some photos of my 130 with wolf rims...studs seem to short but that's how it came out of the factory.

    IMG_5092.jpg

    Cheers Paul
    That is pretty much like what the stud & nut protrusion looks like on my series with D1 steel wheels.
    C
    Chris


    2014 D4 TDV6
    1954 86"
    1963 2A Forward Control (getting the full treatment, Isuzu 4JH1, MYY5T, LT230, Toyota Axles, extended cab ++)
    1980 Stage 1 v8 (gone)

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Narre Warren South
    Posts
    6,314
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by goingbush View Post
    Definitely don't need to run tubes . thats been covered in another recent post. Insist he fit them tubeless , even riveted rims hold air better than tubes do.
    Are you referring to cheap tubes ? All mine run tubes, pressure rarely if ever drops.

    A bigger issue if using the vehicle seriously with lowered tyre pressures is the valve stem ripping off as the tyre rotates on the rim.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '58 Series II (sold)
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!