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Thread: Got a spark when stop starting....

  1. #11
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    Your condenser is under the distributor cap. The one on the side of the coil is a static suppressor, Not important

  2. #12
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    If unsure about the coil voltage run a 12 volt positive feed direct from battery to positive side of coil.,and eliminate possible power issues. Even with the coil being resistive or not . With persistence most times it will start as you let go of the key. Bit tricky though.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by itfarmer View Post
    Hi Deano

    It is a holden red engine, initially there was another wire coming off the coil. So two wires... one is going to the ignition and the second one did not go anywhere.... Should that wire be connected to, for example, the starter motor, so it gets 12v when starting?

    I looked at the diagrams... but could not find anthing that makes sense to me as I cannot find a second wire from the + to anywhere on the diagram....

    Thanks in advance.
    H
    I hope this makes it a bit clearer.

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  4. #14
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    If you have a coil that needs a ballast resistor one way of wiring it would be ign +ve to one end of the resistor, the other end of the resistor to the coil +ve and a connection from the starter motor solenoid (start +ve) to the +ve side of the coil.

    First things first though, I'd suggest getting a part number off the coil or looking at its base to confirm if it's a 12v coil or a ballast type coil. Some ballast type coils have this written on the side. It doesn't really matter which sort you have as long as it's wired appropriately. Being a non factory engine setup (neither LR or Holden) it could be wired either way. If you have a ballast resistor it should be pretty easy to see and mounted near to the coil.

    Regarding the capacitor/condenser on the side of the coil it is indeed a static suppressor (for car radio) and not the points condenser which is inside the distributor as shown in trouts picture. If it is open circuit it will cause the points to spark/wear and ultimately stick together, if it is short circuit it will cause the problem you described initially.

    Deano
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  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by DeanoH View Post
    If you have a coil that needs a ballast resistor one way of wiring it would be ign +ve to one end of the resistor, the other end of the resistor to the coil +ve and a connection from the starter motor solenoid (start +ve) to the +ve side of the coil.
    Careful doing this......


    power coming through the resistor can be enough to hold the solenoid in.

    if the vehicle was intended to use a ballast resistor there should be a terminal on the starter relay/solenoid or off the ignition switch for the bypass wire to go onto.
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  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    Careful doing this......


    power coming through the resistor can be enough to hold the solenoid in.

    if the vehicle was intended to use a ballast resistor there should be a terminal on the starter relay/solenoid or off the ignition switch for the bypass wire to go onto.

    Right on the money Dave, I was trying to explain the existing wiring the OP described, not advocating it as a solution. I've seen it done this way without problem but as you say not ideal. The actual ignition wiring used in the OP's vehicle is unclear as there's not enough info to determine which method (ballast or no ballast) has been used.

    Deano
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  7. #17
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    ITFarmer,
    any joy with getting it to run?
    Does it have points or an electronic module to replace the points?
    That red and black wire coming from your dizzy look very similar to the wires on an Accu-Spark type module.
    If so these are pretty sensitive to the Ohms of the coil.
    A pic of the dizzy with the cap off will show if it's running points or another system.
    Bjorn is correct, the early Holdens with red motors had a resistor wire in the circuit.
    Later ones with reds had a ceramic ballast resistor on the bulkhead.

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  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by itfarmer View Post
    - I checked the funny looking bottle thingy before the disributer...
    The coil? How did you check it?
    Ron B.
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  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by mick88 View Post
    ITFarmer,
    any joy with getting it to run?
    Does it have points or an electronic module to replace the points?
    That red and black wire coming from your dizzy look very similar to the wires on an Accu-Spark type module.
    If so these are pretty sensitive to the Ohms of the coil.
    A pic of the dizzy with the cap off will show if it's running points or another system.
    Bjorn is correct, the early Holdens with red motors had a resistor wire in the circuit.
    Later ones with reds had a ceramic ballast resistor on the bulkhead.

    Cheers, Mick.
    Ok what I done is as follows....

    Starting the engine, I then ran an additional wire from the coil+ to the battery.... and the engine started fine. The moment I remove the wire from the battery the engine stops....

    I will take a picture of the dizzy with the cap off soon as I get home on Sat.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by p38arover View Post
    The coil? How did you check it?

    I removed the main big black wire, that goes to the distributor, put a screwdriver in it. Then took a screwdriver connected to earth an held it close... A spark showed....

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