Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 33

Thread: Got a spark when stop starting....

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Irymple, Victoria, Australia
    Posts
    2,730
    Quote Originally Posted by itfarmer View Post
    Ok what I done is as follows....

    Starting the engine, I then ran an additional wire from the coil+ to the battery.... and the engine started fine. The moment I remove the wire from the battery the engine stops....

    I will take a picture of the dizzy with the cap off soon as I get home on Sat.
    OK so it runs fine when it's hot wired.
    Issue is in the ignition circuit, or even the ignition has stuffed contacts in it.
    You need to trace the wire back from the positive side of the dizzy and see whats going on.

    Cheers, Mick.
    1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
    1971 S2A 88
    1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
    1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
    1972 S3 88 x 2
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
    1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
    REMLR 88
    1969 BSA Bantam B175

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Location
    Just outside brisbane
    Posts
    26
    Dizzy cap taken off.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Irymple, Victoria, Australia
    Posts
    2,730
    Quote Originally Posted by itfarmer View Post
    Dizzy cap taken off.

    As i thought, no points, electronic/magnetic module.
    But obviously it is working if you can get it to run with a hot-wire, you just need to determine why
    there is no power from the ignition circuit to the coil.
    Once you start driving the vehicle if you have any trouble with it breaking down under load etc it
    may be that unit. About twelve months ago i had one that gave no end of trouble under load between
    2800 and 3000 rpm. Before it gave any strife it was brilliant. The best system on the Holden donk is
    the Bosch HEI Distributor and a Bosch HEC 715 coil.

    Cheers, Mick.
    1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
    1971 S2A 88
    1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
    1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
    1972 S3 88 x 2
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
    1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
    REMLR 88
    1969 BSA Bantam B175

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Location
    Just outside brisbane
    Posts
    26
    Thanks mick88

    What I have sofar.....


    Key/Ignition --> whitewire --> coil by itself it won't start.
    adding
    coil --> wire straight to battery it starts fine and seems to do what it does.


    I suspect that the loose wires were used for either "anti flog" switch (you know the ones you put in to make stealing harder). I now have to find a circuit that disconnects power when I turn off the ignition.

    Thanks so much for your help....

    H

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Irymple, Victoria, Australia
    Posts
    2,730
    Quote Originally Posted by itfarmer View Post
    Thanks mick88

    What I have sofar.....


    Key/Ignition --> whitewire --> coil by itself it won't start.
    adding
    coil --> wire straight to battery it starts fine and seems to do what it does.


    I suspect that the loose wires were used for either "anti flog" switch (you know the ones you put in to make stealing harder). I now have to find a circuit that disconnects power when I turn off the ignition.

    Thanks so much for your help....

    H

    Good to hear your on the right track.
    You haven't said what year/series the vehicle actually is.
    Is it running a standard Land Rover ignition switch/key start, or a separate starter button/switch?

    The original symptoms you described where it will fire whilst starting are the exact opposite to a faulty ballast resistor, usually the engine fires up and runs, but when the ignition switch goes back to on/run the engine will die.

    Does your vehicle have a ballast resistor on the bulkhead somewhere?
    Ceramic object, usually white and 70 mm long and 25 mm wide with a squiggly wire through it?

    Cheers, Mick.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
    1971 S2A 88
    1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
    1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
    1972 S3 88 x 2
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
    1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
    REMLR 88
    1969 BSA Bantam B175

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Location
    Just outside brisbane
    Posts
    26
    Quote Originally Posted by mick88 View Post
    Good to hear your on the right track.
    You haven't said what year/series the vehicle actually is.
    Is it running a standard Land Rover ignition switch/key start, or a separate starter button/switch?

    The original symptoms you described where it will fire whilst starting are the exact opposite to a faulty ballast resistor, usually the engine fires up and runs, but when the ignition switch goes back to on/run the engine will die.

    Does your vehicle have a ballast resistor on the bulkhead somewhere?
    Ceramic object, usually white and 70 mm long and 25 mm wide with a squiggly wire through it?

    Cheers, Mick.
    It is a 1978 Landrover Defender 110, long wheel base with a holden engine. It has standard gear box with overdrive :-).
    We have a normal standard key ignition, pretty sure it is the original

    We had a bit of a setback today... I think the starter gone where dead startermotors go....

    I have not seen any ballast resitor anywhere, as we rebuild the baulkhead I am sure there is not one on there. Where should that one sit.... in the schema of things....?

    H

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Irymple, Victoria, Australia
    Posts
    2,730
    Quote Originally Posted by itfarmer View Post
    It is a 1978 Landrover Defender 110, long wheel base with a holden engine. It has standard gear box with overdrive :-).
    We have a normal standard key ignition, pretty sure it is the original

    We had a bit of a setback today... I think the starter gone where dead startermotors go....

    I have not seen any ballast resitor anywhere, as we rebuild the baulkhead I am sure there is not one on there. Where should that one sit.... in the schema of things....?

    H
    If it's a 1978 long wheel base vehicle it will be a series 3 with a 109 inch wheel base, not a Defender 110, they were a later produced vehicle.
    It would not have had a ballast resistor in it's original standard form, so if there is one it would have been added later, so it could be anywhere, but most likely on the bulkhead. If it's not jumping out at you then it probably isn't there.

    Bad luck about the starter, however they are usually Bosch (some were Lucas) and easily repaired.

    Good Luck and cheers,
    Mick.
    1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
    1971 S2A 88
    1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
    1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
    1972 S3 88 x 2
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
    1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
    REMLR 88
    1969 BSA Bantam B175

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Westlake ,brisbane
    Posts
    2,361
    Your fault could be in the ignition switch & could also be affecting the starter now as well. You need to get a test lamp & see were you have power on the starter switch in the different key positions. There should be power on one terminal ( power in) in the off position , on 2 terminals in the on position ( power to coil & fuse box) & on at least 3 terminals in start position.( power to starter solenoid , coil & fuse box) You could try giving the starter a couple of solid taps with the handle end of a hammer while some one turns the key, the solenoid or brushes could be sticking . Can be a common problem with pre engaged starters when they get a bit old & worn.

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Location
    Just outside brisbane
    Posts
    26
    Quote Originally Posted by 1950landy View Post
    Your fault could be in the ignition switch & could also be affecting the starter now as well. You need to get a test lamp & see were you have power on the starter switch in the different key positions. There should be power on one terminal ( power in) in the off position , on 2 terminals in the on position ( power to coil & fuse box) & on at least 3 terminals in start position.( power to starter solenoid , coil & fuse box) You could try giving the starter a couple of solid taps with the handle end of a hammer while some one turns the key, the solenoid or brushes could be sticking . Can be a common problem with pre engaged starters when they get a bit old & worn.

    Yeah.. it is a bit like that... two steps forward 3 steps back :-).

    Ill have to dismantle the ignition switch and work it from there, back to basic....

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Location
    Just outside brisbane
    Posts
    26
    Quote Originally Posted by trout1105 View Post
    I say that might be just what the doctor ordered..... (apart from coffee that is).

    Now what type of ballast resistor (eg model etc) do ineed.

    From what I gather, I have a wire from the ignition switch onto the LT with no ballast resistor (like many of you suggested I am missing).
    I now need an extra wire from the ignition switch to the ballast resistor, then from the ballast resistor to the coil to fix that circuit....

    That should do it.....

    Now the question is where to fetch a ballast resistor......

    H

Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!