Originally Posted by
Lionelgee
I want have a good look around inside the box before fitting it to Rebus. I do not want to go through all the fun of re-installing the seat box and floor just to have to do it all again with a dicky gear box.
I have a new set of gaskets for the gear box
I have a new throw-out bearing.
I have a new spigot bush
The clutch and pressure plate are new.
The fly wheel has been machined
I have synthetic oil for the gear box and transfer case
I have Hylomar - if it's good enough for a Rolls-Royce, it's good enough for my Series 3 - teehee! It may also assist in keeping the oil in the gear box
What else should I be looking at for a parts to buy list to allow for "years of trouble free motoring".
Most of the internals are 'consumable' if it's not looked after......
Have you got a copy of the Series III Repair Operation Manual. Lots of info in there including endfloat figures etc.
Synchro clips (3) although I've read that the aftermarket ones are of dubious quality.
Oil seals, I did have difficulty finding the correct double lipped seal between gearbox & transfer box.
Loctite bearing fit in case any bearings are loose in their housing when fitted.
Aftermarket bearing kits tend to have no-name bearings so it would depend on the usage after rebuilding. You might find 'name' brands are not available for some of the bearings.
Not sure you need synthetic oil.
I've read (someone will no doubt correct me) that synthetic is more 'seeking' i.e. it will leak from a joint where a mineral oil wont.
I use EP 75W90 GL4. If you read up you will find that some GL5 oils damage yellow metals (bronze bushes) whereas GL4 is safe with older gearboxes.
I use Permatex No2, also an aviation gasket sealant. Seems to do the job plus I have a dislike of silicon gasket sealants (long story) especially when people leave masses of squeeze out on the casings....how hard is it to clean up plus there is a similar amount of squeeze out on the inside which can break free and cause problems.
Wallit had the gearbox reconditioned by the PO at a cost of about $4K. I stripped it down to replace a broken syncro clip and found a bearing spinning in it's housing and a bearing on the front output shaft rusty (maybe 4WD was never engaged to throw some oil around ?).
If you want 'years of trouble free motoring' maybe another vehicle is a better bet..................
Lots of overhauls on the Interweb Ben's Series 3 88" Land-Rover Project: LT76 Gearbox Rebuilt
Colin
'56 Series 1 with homemade welder
'65 Series IIa Dormobile
'70 SIIa GS
'76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
'81 SIII FFR
'95 Defender Tanami
'58 Series II (sold)
Motorcycles :-
Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C
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