Results 1 to 10 of 10

Thread: Newly acquired 75 series III with 2.6 6 cyl petrol engine

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    42
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Newly acquired 75 series III with 2.6 6 cyl petrol engine

    Evening all. I have just bought a 75 LWB Series III. It is fitted with the 2.6L 6 cyl.petrol motor. It starts well and runs nicely. Odometer has 66,000 kms showing, though I suspect it has been round the clock at least once. Questions I have are what particular maintenance issues should I be looking out for with this motor, can I use synthetic or semi synthetic oil at next oil change and typically how many kms can you expect to get from one of these motors before major rebuild is required? Any constructive input welcome.

    Cheers

    BB

  2. #2
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central West NSW
    Posts
    28,804
    Total Downloaded
    0
    The critical maintenance on these engines seems to be the need to keep a close eye on the tappet clearance on the exhaust valves.. This tends to get neglected because they are hard to get at, and if allowed to run with inadequate clearance is likely to result in burnt valves, and possibly the need to replace valve seats.

    The cooling system needs to be kept in good condition to avoid overheating. There is a pipe inside the block that modifies the coolant flow to ensure that the exhaust valve seats are not overheated. If coolant is allowed to become corrosive, this can corrode unseen and lead to issues with No6 exhaust valve.

    There is no reason not to use a synthetic or semi-synthetic oil, but the main advantage of these is extended service intervals, and I would definitely not advise extending the service interval, even with these oils, so it could get expensive. (This is a 1940s design engine, and the (by modern standards) short service interval is needed to deal with combustion products and possible fuel dilution as the mixture is not as well controlled as a modern engine.)

    Although this engine usually pulls well at low rpm, it is better not to allow it to do so - ultimately, this is a car engine, not a truck engine, and is quite happy at high rpm. Use the gears!
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,073
    Total Downloaded
    0
    As John says the exhaust valves and clearances need regular attention as does the cooling system
    As a new owner a full system flush and service would be recommended so that you can
    establish a maintenance base line
    I wouldn’t waste money on fancy oils. It doesn’t need them
    You also need to remember that these engines were designed to run on leaded fuel. Unleaded will eventually result in valve seat regression unless some type of fuel additive is used IMO.
    Other who run these motors will confirm/reject this opinion I’m sure.
    Phil B

    Custodian of:
    1974 S3 swb wagon (sold)
    1978 S3 swb canvas
    48 749 '88 4x4 Perentie
    1985 County with 4BD1T

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Westlake ,brisbane
    Posts
    3,922
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Phil B View Post
    As John says the exhaust valves and clearances need regular attention as does the cooling system
    As a new owner a full system flush and service would be recommended so that you can
    establish a maintenance base line
    I wouldn’t waste money on fancy oils. It doesn’t need them
    You also need to remember that these engines were designed to run on leaded fuel. Unleaded will eventually result in valve seat regression unless some type of fuel additive is used IMO.
    Other who run these motors will confirm/reject this opinion I’m sure.
    You should not need unleaded additive the valve seats are hardened . I have been running my 80" ever since unleaded came in with out a problem. It even runs for hours at car shows demonstrating the PTO driving a water pump. The motor dose more work driving the pump than driving on the road.
    untitled.pngarthur day 2.jpg

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,073
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Newly acquired 75 series III with 2.6 6 cyl petrol engine

    Were your valve seats replaced as part of a head overhaul?
    If not I stand corrected
    Thanks
    Phil B

    Custodian of:
    1974 S3 swb wagon (sold)
    1978 S3 swb canvas
    48 749 '88 4x4 Perentie
    1985 County with 4BD1T

  6. #6
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central West NSW
    Posts
    28,804
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Confirming that this engine has hardened steel inserts for the valve seats for both inlet and exhaust valves. They need no additives to replace use with unleaded fuel. Properly maintained, the valve seats should not need replacing before a major overhaul, and not necessarily even then, but neglect of exhaust valve clearances can lead to burnt valves and damaged valve seats, especially on No6.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    208
    Total Downloaded
    0
    G'day All,

    Use only mineral based oil in these older engines that has high zinc additive. The modern oils have reduced zinc additive (ZDDP) and Phosphorus because of O2 sensors and use roller cam design. Google search is the way to go here as ZDDP and Phosphorus work together to form the EP barrier.

    The older oil for this age of vehicle was API SJ/CE and had approx. 1400PPM of ZDDP.

    API SM/CF has approx 800PPM of ZDDP. Not enough to properly protect high wear metal to metal contact areas, even though L/R use rollers.

    (The latest API rating is SN and cannot find the ZDDP PPM rating for these oils.)

    I have a stock of Castrol GTX 20W-50 API SM/CF and add ZDDP to bring the zinc up to approx. 1500PPM for my 2.25Ltr 1966 petrol engine.

    (I had to do this ZDDP research for my 1976 Mini Clubman . The G/Box syncro's and Primary gear were sticking when using 800PPM ZDDP oil and so hard to drive. Changed over to Penrite Classic Mini oil with 1390PPM ZDDP and fixed these problems after driving 20 miles.)

    That what I do with my 1966 2A daily driver.

    Chris

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    australia
    Posts
    904
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Bolton View Post
    Evening all. I have just bought a 75 LWB Series III. It is fitted with the 2.6L 6 cyl.petrol motor. It starts well and runs nicely. Odometer has 66,000 kms showing, though I suspect it has been round the clock at least once. Questions I have are what particular maintenance issues should I be looking out for with this motor, can I use synthetic or semi synthetic oil at next oil change and typically how many kms can you expect to get from one of these motors before major rebuild is required? Any constructive input welcome.

    BB
    Cheers hi have ex repco motor all stripped down and all parts microed for wear jim
    Russell Rovers
    Series I Parts Specialists
    russellrovers AT gmail.com
    Phone 0428732001

  9. #9
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central West NSW
    Posts
    28,804
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Busted Syncro View Post
    G'day All,

    Use only mineral based oil in these older engines that has high zinc additive. The modern oils have reduced zinc additive (ZDDP) and Phosphorus because of O2 sensors and use roller cam design. Google search is the way to go here as ZDDP and Phosphorus work together to form the EP barrier.

    The older oil for this age of vehicle was API SJ/CE and had approx. 1400PPM of ZDDP.

    ....
    Perhaps worth pointing out that this engine has roller cam followers!
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Westlake ,brisbane
    Posts
    3,922
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Penrite have a good oil for the older engines , they have a good website to look up recommended oil for all motor vehicle equipment.

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!