The main thing is the clunk when I change gears. I don't think it's the clutch or selector, and it seems to be reproducible when I suddenly take my foot off the accelerator/when changing gear.
Most likely a combination of wear. First check would be propeller shafts and universal joints, then work your way along the drivetrain. Leaving the handbrake off and gearbox and transfer case in neutral (umm, chock the wheels!) simply look for play in the prop shafts and uni joints by holding either side and twisting. The prop shaft splines should have no lateral movement and ideally no play in the splines. The uni joints should have no play whatsoever and clean grease should be pushed out of each seal when greasing. Look for water and dirt coming out. Any movement in the prop shafts will travel through the gearbox and transfer case making further diagnosis difficult, so sort that out first. If in doubt drop the prop shafts at the gearbox, then use the output flanges to feel for clunks through the various gears and hi/low range settings.
I am also having trouble with second gear, occasionally it is like there is no synchro ring and it just grinds when I try and go from third to second. Maybe 1 shift in 20? The gearbox was meant to have been recond about 40-50k ago (with short shift and higher speed gears) so a little surprised to be having these issues. Wondering if the dragging handbrake has caused premature wear?
Could be syncro or perhaps the clutch not disengaging fully. Can't see a dragging handbrake affecting the syncro, but it will cause lots of clunking. Handbrake is quite easy to overhaul.
With the clunk in the rear diff, can the backlash be adjusted without taking the diff out? I know not ideal, but if I can get it close and it will give me more life before doing a proper recon it might be worth it.
The preload can be adjusted without removing the diff. The Salisbury has a collapsible spacer, so be careful not to overtighten it. The Rover diff has shims. Both should be adjusted without the new pinion seal fitted, then you undo it, fit the seal and tighten up the flange to where it was set. You'll get a better feel for the state of the diffs with the prop shafts removed.
I am also wondering about the front spring bushings. They look pretty hard and worn, what kind of symptoms appear with the worn bushings? clunking going over bumps and a bit of steering wander?
If you hear a clunking seeming to come from under your feet, then it's probably the springs sliding on the bushes and/or the chassis bush moving or broken. A number of things may need to be fixed. Wandering can be caused by improperly set springs, loose U bolts and worn steering components. Get someone to sit in the car and turn the wheel while you lie underneath and feel for movement. You'll soon find where the play is coming from. Also check for play in the swivel pin housings.
Last thing, after setting the preload I have noticed a bit of oil weeping from each of the ball joints on inspection this evening. I will clean it off and recheck in a day or two but wondering if it is common for this to happen and is it a sign of buggered seals? there isn't any pitting etc
Aaah! To properly set the preload you need to remove the seal. Clean it properly and pack it with grease before refitting onto a clean ball joint. You have to remove the ball joint to actually replace the seal, although there are two piece seals available but I've never used them so can't comment.
2013 D4 expedition equipped
1966 Army workshop trailer
(previously SII 2.25 swb, SIII 2.25 swb & lwb, P38 Vogue, 1993 LSE 3.9V8 then HS2.8)
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