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Thread: Door adjustment - driver bits

  1. #1
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    Door adjustment - driver bits

    Just wondering if anyone has any handy tips on loosening and adjusting doors? have tried to no avail with my largest screwdriver.

    Is the next best bet an impact driver and anyone manage to find somewhere that sells large enough driver bits? guessing I might need to check out a proper automotive tool supplier, bunnings didn't seem to have anything close.

  2. #2
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is online now RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    I assume you refer to the bolts attaching the hinges to the firewall? I suspect you need to get some penetrating oil onto the captive nuts, but yes, after that an impact driver is probably worth trying. And get replacement bolts and nuts for when they break.
    John

    JDNSW
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    Quote Originally Posted by danbinks View Post
    Just wondering if anyone has any handy tips on loosening and adjusting doors? have tried to no avail with my largest screwdriver.

    Is the next best bet an impact driver and anyone manage to find somewhere that sells large enough driver bits? guessing I might need to check out a proper automotive tool supplier, bunnings didn't seem to have anything close.
    best leave alone jim
    Russell Rovers
    Series I Parts Specialists
    russellrovers AT gmail.com
    Phone 0428732001

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    If it's a Phillips screw, it's possibly a #3 size bit. One of those in an impact driver after penetrating oil as described, should do it.
    Repco has spare bits for impact drivers.
    Don.

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    Yes the screws holding the door hinges on.

    Roger that, I will order spares before getting too stuck into it!

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    They are most likely 'Pozidrive' screws, identified by 4 score marks in the head and extra ribs in the slots.
    Definitely get a Pozidrive bit, a normal Philips bit will destroy the screw. Impact wrench or just a hammer drill will probably do it. Try Total Tools.
    Screwdriver Bits | Total Tools.
    Terry
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  7. #7
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    If the door has dropped it’s likely the cause is the pins between the 2 hinge parts is worn and worn the holes too. Adjusting them may get you back a bit of this but depending on what you want to achieve you could replace the hinges with new ones or remove, reborn/sleeve/repin the originals if you had the equipment to do this.
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rover-56 View Post
    They are most likely 'Pozidrive' screws, identified by 4 score marks in the head and extra ribs in the slots.
    Definitely get a Pozidrive bit, a normal Philips bit will destroy the screw. Impact wrench or just a hammer drill will probably do it. Try Total Tools.
    Screwdriver Bits | Total Tools.
    Terry
    Cheers Terry, yup that's the bit! makes sense now why the philips weren't cutting it.

    Some great suggestions all, will let you know how I get on once the parts arrive!

  9. #9
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    If you have a problem, screws & captive nuts are cheap from the UK
    Hinge to Bulkhead Captive Nut - Paddock Spares
    Hinge to Bulkhead Screw - Paddock Spares

    If, as Homestar mentions, the door hinge pins are worn, complete hinges are also reasonably priced.
    Door Hinge with mirror mount holes RH - Paddock Spares

    You can get them with & without holes for Defender type mirrors (easier to use than mirrors mounted on the wings but not original).

    Paddocks have a kit with two top hinges and the Defender type mirrors.
    StackPath

    Deliveries from the UK have been about two weeks recently (better than Australia Post !), you just need to factor in freight. It's worthwhile checking out Paddocks or other suppliers like Bearmach and put together a decent order to spread the freight cost.
    For example seatbelts are cheap from Paddocks and AU/NZ approved.


    Colin
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  10. #10
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    A large square shank screwdriver and a good quality shifter always works for.
    Graphite Grease, Coppercoat, or something similar when you refit them.

    Cheers, Mick.
    1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
    1971 S2A 88
    1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
    1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
    1972 S3 88 x 2
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
    1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
    REMLR 88
    1969 BSA Bantam B175

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