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Thread: SIII Gearbox/TC Problem

  1. #1
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    SIII Gearbox/TC Problem

    1981 ex Army SIII at end of it's life but working as a utility vehicle on a sand island off Port Albert, Victoria. It's a harsh environment and all vehicles eventually rust away. The island is a game reserve run as a co-operative by volunteers.
    The problem is the vehicle has been starting in gear, even though the clutch is engaged and the gearbox is in Neutral. Immediate diagnosis was that the clutch was rusted on to the flywheel as this has regularly happened before with other vehicles. The method to unstick the clutch was to start it in gear but with the clutch engaged. This usually resulted in a bit of a bang and then all was good and the car drove OK until it had to be started again. But finally it seized up and as I'm known as a bit of a Landrover nut the job was assigned to me.
    I've removed the floor and seat base (yes, many rusted bolts and the captive nuts had long ago ceased to be captive), both prop shafts, and popped off the gear lever to have a look through the inspection port at the clutch. Surprisingly, it all looked OK, quite clean, and the fingers were fine and seemed to move the requisite distance. Attention was then turned to the clutch and master cylinders, but again, these seemed fine.
    With the output shafts free to rotate, I reconnected the battery and started the car. All gears engage OK and High Range 2WD and 4WD work OK as does Low Range.
    BUT, with the gearbox in Neutral and the clutch engaged (i.e. foot off the pedal), drive is going to the output shafts. Only when the clutch is engaged to about half an inch from it's full travel (i.e. the floor) does the drive to the output shaft cease. Yes, when the Transfer Case is put into Neutral (which is very hard to find) drive also stops as expected.
    So it seems to me that somehow the Transfer Case is still being powered by the gearbox, even though the gearbox is in Neutral.
    Am I missing something? Any suggestions welcome. I do have workshop manuals at home but I'm still on the island and just need to get my head around this.
    2013 D4 expedition equipped
    1966 Army workshop trailer
    (previously SII 2.25 swb, SIII 2.25 swb & lwb, P38 Vogue, 1993 LSE 3.9V8 then HS2.8)

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    With the red transfer lever in neutral the front and rear prop shafts are locked together, but with the main gearbox disconnected. You can easily check the operation by removing the rectangular cover on the T/C behind the hand brake drum. The shiny gear in the picture, which sits quite loosely on the shaft, selects the range. Left-Low range, Centre-Neutral, Right- High range. Make sure the pinch bolt that holds the operating fork to the shaft is tight.
    .W
    Attached Images Attached Images

  3. #3
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    Tcase in neutral will temporarily solve the issue however the main box being driven while the selectors are in neutro is typically a case of too much float on the mainshaft and end thrust resulting causing the geaset to stick,

    It can also come about from the mainshaft center support bushing failing.

    box out to fix.

    try marce cameron he may have a spare farm class box.

    pm me if you need the hand.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  4. #4
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    Sounds like a clutch linkage or hydraulic problem. You can get wear in the fork and there is a bush somewhere . i also think there is a spacer on the slave cylinder that changes the adjustment.
    Also the master cylinder has to be adjusted correctly to get it to work properly.
    You can also have different sized bores in the master cylinder that would affect the clutch adjustment.

    Try bleeding the clutch cylinder and see when the fluid comes out . ie all travel or only at the bottom fot he travel.

    Good luck

    Ian
    Bittern

  5. #5
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    Thanks all. It turned out to be a broken clutch plate spring being randomly stuck between the pressure plate and the fingers.
    Strangely, I find that I've rather enjoyed working on this. I have a fully reconditioned engine and gearbox (which I brought to the island with plans to temporarily fit into the ute) and am now thinking about finding a SII or SIII to restore at home. No idea why!
    2013 D4 expedition equipped
    1966 Army workshop trailer
    (previously SII 2.25 swb, SIII 2.25 swb & lwb, P38 Vogue, 1993 LSE 3.9V8 then HS2.8)

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
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    Wandong,Victoria,Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by DieselLSE View Post
    Thanks all. It turned out to be a broken clutch plate spring being randomly stuck between the pressure plate and the fingers.
    Strangely, I find that I've rather enjoyed working on this. I have a fully reconditioned engine and gearbox (which I brought to the island with plans to temporarily fit into the ute) and am now thinking about finding a SII or SIII to restore at home. No idea why!
    And that answers my question before I had a chance to write “how did you go?” 🤣
    54 Series 1 86
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    76 2 Door Range Rover
    78 101 Forward Control - Club Rego
    88 Perentie FFR - Club Rego
    90 4 Door Range Rover - Club Rego
    93 Discovery 1 200 Tdi - Club Rego
    98 Freelander 1 - Full Rego
    22 Defedner 90 - Full rego

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