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Thread: series 3 steering relay box

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Narre Warren South
    Posts
    6,314
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    0
    Quote Originally Posted by mick88 View Post

    Whatever you do don't remove all four screws as the internals are under a fair bit of tension.

    Cheers, Mick.
    Mick,
    You can remove the endcaps without any problem.
    The spring pushes against Tufnol bushes which operate against the tapers on the shaft. This pushes the bushes against the relay bore. You need a fair amount of force to drift the shaft & bushes out far enough for the spring to cause problems.

    On my Series I I removed the lower steering arm, removed the locating ring and lower cap to replace the seal. Saved trying to remove the relay from the chassis.

    When re-building I fit the lower cap, fill the relay with oil then fit the top cap. Much faster than filling through a bolt hole.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '58 Series II (sold)
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2021
    Location
    South Coast NSW
    Posts
    262
    Total Downloaded
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    Quote Originally Posted by mick88 View Post
    A disposable syringe is a good tool for getting some EP90 into the steering relay.
    I use a 10mm one.

    Cheers, Mick.
    I've bought a couple of those already with that as my plan! Couldn't figure out how to mod my grease gun easily and my original idea was to use a big syringe. Just haven't got around to getting the bolts out yet to check it. I keep going to do it and end up doing something else after I pull the grill off and try to get to the second bolt and get distracted after I can't get to it for half an hour 😂
    It's not that I can't get to it easily that's the biggest issue, it's that I'm worried about doing the thing back up properly afterwards

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