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Thread: Valve guide on 6-pot 2.6 IOE engine.

  1. #1
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    Valve guide on 6-pot 2.6 IOE engine.

    Hi all,

    In my non-LR Rover car the 6-cylinder 2.6 petrol engine is mounted, that was used in the Series iii range too.
    As you know, the exhaust valves of this engine are mounted in the block itself.
    The valve guides for these are in the cast iron block too.
    My question: how can these guides be removed (to replace them for unworn new ones)?
    Can these simply been pressed out (hammering will be second choice i presume), and new ones
    pressed in?
    Or is heat or extrem coldness involved?

    I would like to replace my exhaust valves (one broken), and assume the guides will be worn too.

    I hope some user can give some information on this.

    Thank you,
    oldroverlove

  2. #2
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    you need the right kit but your premise is sound.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldroverlove View Post
    Hi all,

    In my non-LR Rover car the 6-cylinder 2.6 petrol engine is mounted, that was used in the Series iii range too.
    As you know, the exhaust valves of this engine are mounted in the block itself.
    The valve guides for these are in the cast iron block too.
    My question: how can these guides be removed (to replace them for unworn new ones)?
    Can these simply been pressed out (hammering will be second choice i presume), and new ones
    pressed in?
    Or is heat or extrem coldness involved?
    The Series III Workshop manual mentions a 'replacer' which is an odd description. Basically a stepped punch that locates inside the guide for removing/inserting them.
    Land Rover part number 600959. Something you'll have to turn up on a lathe (or get someone to make one for you).

    So as Dave suggests, drift the old ones out and the new ones in.
    The manual mentions that heating or cooling isn't required to replace the valve seats so the same would apply to the guides.

    I have seen a process where guides have a lining fitted in situ. They are bored out, a liner fitted and a slightly oversized ball bearing pressed through to expand the liner into place. Sounds expensive compared to installing new guides yourself but......have you found a source for the guides ? 6-cylinder parts can sometimes be difficult to find.

    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '58 Series II (sold)
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C

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    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  5. #5
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    This job is on my 'to do' list for my engine - it's still on the engine stand awaiting machining but the valve guides were on my list. What part of the Country/World are you from? I was planning to make a drift for mine - I have a lathe and can run one up pretty easily. If you were close enough, I could lend you it once it's made - if you're not in a hurry for it. I haven't found replacements but I was going to use some bronze inserts, machine to size and shrink fit them, but now I'm wondering if I did this if I'd need to ball broach them as well, which wouldn't be the end of the world as a ball broach isn't hugely expensive once the size is known and I think they come in sizes in 1 thou increments.
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

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    @Dave,
    @Colin,
    Thank you for the answers.

    Nice to see the original guides could be 'tapped out'. Is it a 'one direction' route only (from head down -to the cam) and new in from that side, or can it be taken out (and new pressed in) from the top (mating flange to the cylinder head)?
    My engine is in the car, and I will not be able to take it out, so space to work may be an issue.

    I looked at the K-Line page Dave offered up, and played the inserting-video a few times,
    To me, it looks as if the original (old) guide is not drilled out (removed by drilling), but left in and sort of straightened by passing a special drill trough it, and when it is clean, straight and round the K-Line 'sleeve' is hammered (airhammer) in. A new tool then driven through that presses the 'sleeve' against the inside of the old guide, so compensating for its wear. So essentially I see an old guide lined up with a thin layer of new material (the K-Line sleeve).
    >>> But maybe I am wrong on this. <<<

    In general, I guess the K-Line set is intended for workshops (who can easily invest).
    For the treatment of only one car (6 valves) the K-Line kits needed will be too expensive (I guess it to be in the 300-400 dollar range for all I would need).
    I happen to be a private owner, whose budget is -sadly enough- an issue.

    A situation where new guides are absolutely unavailable (how is this possible, Laros liver forever) could change this though.

    Hope some members will ventilate their views on this.

    oldroverlove

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    Quote Originally Posted by Homestar View Post
    ........, but now I'm wondering if I did this if I'd need to ball broach them as well, .....
    Hi,
    I always understood, new guides should be reamed to size after pressing them into the head/block, as in installing the guide is compressed a bit and changes its inner diameter.
    The 'ball broach' from K-Line seems to be intended to press firmly the new thin liner against the old guide inside.
    I MAY be interpreting things wrong (see my previous post, waiting to be supervised). When, please correct me.

    Thanks,
    oldroverlove

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    Quote Originally Posted by oldroverlove View Post
    Hi,
    I always understood, new guides should be reamed to size after pressing them into the head/block, as in installing the guide is compressed a bit and changes its inner diameter.
    The 'ball broach' from K-Line seems to be intended to press firmly the new thin liner against the old guide inside.
    I MAY be interpreting things wrong (see my previous post, waiting to be supervised). When, please correct me.
    I've fitted lots of guides to cars & old motorcycles and never had to ream them. On my Vincent you do have to line ream but this is because there are actually two valve guides for each valve.
    It would take a very serious interference fit to change the ID of the guide. You're more likely to damage them during the install leading to a reamer being required to remove material where the damage occurs. A well made stepped insertion tool would alleviate any damage.

    Have you managed to source guides ? Might be the same as the 2.0 litre motor, I'd have to check.


    Colin


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '58 Series II (sold)
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C

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    Quote Originally Posted by oldroverlove View Post
    Hi,
    I always understood, new guides should be reamed to size after pressing them into the head/block, as in installing the guide is compressed a bit and changes its inner diameter.
    The 'ball broach' from K-Line seems to be intended to press firmly the new thin liner against the old guide inside.
    I MAY be interpreting things wrong (see my previous post, waiting to be supervised). When, please correct me.

    Thanks,
    oldroverlove
    I wasn’t thinking too much about the Kline broach but how I might do mine. I have the capacity to manufacture anything I need in my garage so mad musing about this - the broach could get me the exact ID I need and lock the new guides into the head at the same time. Assuming the ID changed when shrink fitting them in, but Colins experience shows that may not be the case. Valve guide on 6-pot 2.6 IOE engine.

    I’ll see if I can make some headway with this any time soon as I want to make sure the rest of the block is ok and repairable before getting the bores machined.
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

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