Thread: Bonnet frame

Originally Posted by S3ute

Hello from Sherwood.

On a similar topic - removing and refitting a rear tub floor panel. The existing panel is riveted to the cross strengtheners and the base of the wheel boxes, but also is fixed in place by some form of sealant. I have the rivets out but need to break the grip of the sealant to remove the panel. What’s the best approach - heat gun and leverage along the edges?

Cheers,

Neil

Neil, I think you'll find the rear floor panel is spot welded to the rest of the rear tub. The rivets just hold the cross reinforcing on as far as I aware. Mine (1976 SWB ) currently has the cross pieces and all the paint off. I can have a closer look today if you'd like.

20211106_122244 CROPPED 2.jpg

As to the bonnet frame there would likely be a mastic type compound between the frame and aluminium. That would probably be pretty dry and possibly brittle by now if not a bit of gentle heat would probably do it or maybe a hacksaw blade worked between the frame and aluminium. That's one of the few pieces I haven't actually separated on mine (as yet). A few people on the various Bookface pages have done it so can't be too hard. A few making and selling replacement sections also if you find you need them.

I believe Charlie Myres found on Western Oz FB page is making Bonnet frame section.

whitehillbilly.

Originally Posted by Lakey

Neil, I think you'll find the rear floor panel is spot welded to the rest of the rear tub. The rivets just hold the cross reinforcing on as far as I aware. Mine (1976 SWB ) currently has the cross pieces and all the paint off. I can have a closer look today if you'd like.

20211106_122244 CROPPED 2.jpg

As to the bonnet frame there would likely be a mastic type compound between the frame and aluminium. That would probably be pretty dry and possibly brittle by now if not a bit of gentle heat would probably do it or maybe a hacksaw blade worked between the frame and aluminium. That's one of the few pieces I haven't actually separated on mine (as yet). A few people on the various Bookface pages have done it so can't be too hard. A few making and selling replacement sections also if you find you need them.

Hello again and thanks.

It hadn't actually occurred to me that the floor might have been spot welded to the frame along the inner sides - your photo seems to suggest that it is. So, I'll get underneath it with a torch and take a better look.

As far as the bonnet frame goes, I finally got it out without much hassle or damage. Once the skin at the rear back sides was opened up a little and the frame was given a few gentle taps with a block of wood and rubber mallet it came free. If there had been any adhesive in there it had lost its grip a long time ago.

Bonnet_4.jpgBonnet_11.jpgBonnet_9.jpg

The frame is fairly good, other than having a lot of surface rust - especially on the underside where it was never painted. I have a pile of bits ready for galvanising and the frame will join them - the main reason for opting to separate it rather than just paint it along with the rest of the bonnet.

Cheers,

Neil

Originally Posted by Lakey

Neil, I think you'll find the rear floor panel is spot welded to the rest of the rear tub.

Hello again.

I was down at Buccan picking up a few parts from Harry and had the opportunity to look over one of the tubs that was in the yard. You are quite correct there is a row of spot welds along each side of the tub floors.

Knowing that now looks like heading off a future exercise in grief. Thanks for the heads up.

Cheers,

Neil

Heres something I just discovered, the hinge mountings for 2/2a bonnets arent central, the pin mountings on the 2/2a bulkhead are offset to allow for side mounting, but then the hinge plates appear to be out by about 10 mm.
Both bonnet pivots appear to be 930mm between centers on the bulkhead and on the series 3 bonnet, but 940mm on 2/2a bonnet.
2a plate with the 3 holes bolted straight on but the gap in series 3 hinge plate wont fit the bulkhead mount

Interesting - I have interchanged S3 and S2a bonnets on my 2a without noticing any issues - but I can see how it would be an issue on S3. But I would also not be terribly surprised if the 10mm difference was a manufacturing tolerance!

Originally Posted by JDNSW

But I would also not be terribly surprised if the 10mm difference was a manufacturing tolerance!

Especially if BL had anything to do with it.

Originally Posted by JDNSW

Interesting - I have interchanged S3 and S2a bonnets on my 2a without noticing any issues - but I can see how it would be an issue on S3. But I would also not be terribly surprised if the 10mm difference was a manufacturing tolerance!

I came across the same problem a few years ago as i was swapping Series 2, 2A, and 3 bonnets around, but I thought that I may have just struck some that were knocked up on a Monday, and some from a Friday.

The issue was easily rectified.

Cheers, Mick.