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Thread: Series 3 rear axle

  1. #1
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    Series 3 rear axle

    Hello everyone
    I have been having problems with the rear axle in my series 3 long wheel base.
    The left hand axle seal keeps leaking, it has had many seals in it, the collar has been replaced and the diff breather is not blocked.
    Also when ever I take apart to fix there is always metal in the end cap/hub dose this come from the axle and flange? How do you stop it from doing that?
    Cheers Mitch

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mitchy View Post
    Hello everyone
    I have been having problems with the rear axle in my series 3 long wheel base.
    The left hand axle seal keeps leaking, it has had many seals in it, the collar has been replaced and the diff breather is not blocked.
    Also when ever I take apart to fix there is always metal in the end cap/hub dose this come from the axle and flange? How do you stop it from doing that?
    Cheers Mitch
    Hi Mitch,

    So, I think you mean the seal at the end of the axle and not the hub seal?
    What’s the condition of the splines on the end of the axle? I would think that the only way there can be metal (assume you mean “glitter oil” rather than chunks?) is if there is movement there and the wear is getting worse. Unless a bearing is failing and the metal is coming through from there?
    My Lightweight has a slightly different axle end to yours, but I would say RTV sealant is your friend! Once you identify if the glitter is a concern or not!
    Jacked up, check the wheel spins freely and there should be “the slightest” amount of play if you try to rock it “side to side”. The SIII handbook has a dial-vernier setup explaining all this but I always went by feel! Anything “clunk clunk” side to side may indicate the need to check the wheel bearings. If the wheel is hard to turn, and adjusting the brake doesn’t help, there’s an issue somewhere!
    1974 Military Lightweight Landy --- Some dementia at 48 years old
    2000 Disco series 2 now sadly moved on!
    No5 Trailer joined the fold... Awaiting graduation to road licensed!
    Ford Ranger 2013 XLT.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mitchy View Post
    Hello everyone
    I have been having problems with the rear axle in my series 3 long wheel base.
    The left hand axle seal keeps leaking, it has had many seals in it, the collar has been replaced and the diff breather is not blocked.
    Also when ever I take apart to fix there is always metal in the end cap/hub dose this come from the axle and flange? How do you stop it from doing that?
    Cheers Mitch
    Mitch,
    Firstly, where are you buying the seals ?
    Seals from LR suppliers can be of dubious quality, I now source from a bearing supplier. Typically better quality, double lipped and more pliable.

    I'm confused when you say 'axle seal' and 'the collar has been replaced' in the same sentence . Do you mean the seal in the back of the hub ? There is a replaceable collar on the stub axle that this seal runs on.
    I've replaced a number of collars that looked OK but I was using a seal from a LR supplier and there was grease leaking out. Each time I've used a better quality seal on a new collar and the problem goes away.

    Metal in the hub cap is a worry. As davros mentioned it could be from badly worn splines on the halfshaft and/or the drive member. When you fit the drive member onto the halfshaft splines is there a lot of rotational play ?

    Some pictures might help us confirm the parts you are referring to.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '58 Series II (sold)
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C

  4. #4
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    Sorry I did write the wrong thing I meant to say hub seal and not axle seal. I've been using a "amaando" brand of seal size of 2.313-3.344-0.313
    I was thinking of trying to get a genuine Land Rover seal?
    As for the metal glitter there doesn't seem to be any extra movement in the axle/flange than what you would expect.
    Mitchell

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mitchy View Post
    Sorry I did write the wrong thing I meant to say hub seal and not axle seal. I've been using a "amaando" brand of seal size of 2.313-3.344-0.313
    I was thinking of trying to get a genuine Land Rover seal?
    As for the metal glitter there doesn't seem to be any extra movement in the axle/flange than what you would expect.
    Mitchell
    I hadn't heard of Amaando, they seem to be a seal supplier in Silverwater ? I wonder who manufactures their seals.

    Land Rover don't make seals so they will outsource, problem is from where, especially for older models. Your typical Land Rover parts supplier will sell 'OEM', 'OEM quality', 'OEM standard' but all of these terms mean nothing. They will typically be a cheap item in a blue box (Britpart).

    If the wheel bearings aren't adjusted properly there could be too much movement of the hub, also if the inner bearing races are too loose on the stub axle the hub can move. This movement could open the seal and allow leakage.
    Is the seal sitting properly on the collar ?
    How tight was the collar when fitted ? I've always wondered if I should run some sealant round before fitting.

    Seems odd that it's only one hub, there must be something out of specification through wear.

    As for the glitter.....seems odd. If inside the cap then it can only come from the driveshaft/drive member.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '58 Series II (sold)
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C

  6. #6
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    This may seem a given but when fitting the seals are you applying a small smear of grease on the lip to sleeve surface, this Is a normal practice it assists the seal break-in preventing it burning when first driven. Second thought are you overfilling the hub cavity with grease because this can cause leakage due to thermal expansion, the grease will push past the seal if the hub is too full. As a general rule you should pack the bearings and then put a small amount of grease in the hub not fill it fully. Lastly this may seem a given but are you installing the seal with the spring side in and not out to the brake drum. Seals are normally designed to prevent leakage in one direction and if installed with the spring to the outside it will leak just a thought.
    Gippy

  7. #7
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    I have tried and checked all those different things. If the wheel bearings ran in grease and not oil I wouldn't think the problem would be as bad. I was wondering if they still make leather seals any more? Might be a better seal.
    Mitchell

  8. #8
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    I got some Genuine leather Hub seals from Blanchards UK.

    Buy Hub Oil Seal Leather Part RTC3510L (pablanchard.co.uk)

    I also grabbed some of these, as when you measure original one against some aftermarket one supplied, you may notice some differences.

    Buy Hub Oil Seal Genuine RTC3510G (pablanchard.co.uk)

    whitehillbilly

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mitchy View Post
    I have tried and checked all those different things. If the wheel bearings ran in grease and not oil I wouldn't think the problem would be as bad. I was wondering if they still make leather seals any more? Might be a better seal.
    Mitchell
    Leather seals stay wet to work so I think there would always be some weeping.

    I've just stripped a couple of axles that had leather seals. Dirt embedded in the leather diff seal and a very deep groove has been worn over time.

    The only problems I've had have been from poor quality seals, now I source from a bearing supplier I don't have any leakage. The bearing supplier does have to order them in as they are an Imperial size they don't stock.
    The ones I get are double lipped, the lip with a garter spring stops the oil escaping and an outer lip keeps the dirt out.



    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '58 Series II (sold)
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C

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