Solid rivets ? Most Series III bonnets I've seen use sealed pop rivets but this may have changed during production. May also depend on UK or Aus assembly.
I scored a box of solid rivets from someone who used to work at Regent Motors in Melbourne, he must have left with a few in his pocket each day ?! There were also some semi-tubular rivets.
I'll need to re-stock at some point, as mentioned Bits-4-Landys stock them https://www.bits4landys.co.uk/rivets/rivets-tools.htm
You'll need a rivet snap to support the head, a helper and a vice with a lot of access all round (or some other way of holding the snap).
The rivet snap has a recess to support the head of the rivet so you need to match it to the head of the rivets you buy.
Snap held in the vice. Rivet placed in bonnet then head of rivet located in the snap while helper supports the bonnet. You can then flatten the back of the rivet with a hammer (if you can aim well) or use a flat punch & hammer.
It doesn't take a lot of force to flatten the rivet.
Some rivet snaps also have a hole in them so that you can insert over the shank of the rivet and tap the snap so that the sheets are pushed together tightly before flattening.
I did some Series II door skins this way a while ago.
Colin
'56 Series 1 with homemade welder
'65 Series IIa Dormobile
'70 SIIa GS
'76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
'81 SIII FFR
'95 Defender Tanami
'58 Series II (sold)
Motorcycles :-
Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C
Bookmarks