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Thread: Stuck heater access plugs

  1. #1
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    Stuck heater access plugs

    Hi,

    When I got my 75 Series 3 88" years ago it had a heater box, air controls, fan etc most of which were stuffed. On the other hand, the engine apparently came out of an older truck without a heater and had no points from which heater hoses could be attached. As part of a long running restoration I have fully refurbished the heater and now want to connect it to the engine.

    Needless to say, after maybe nearly 50 years since they were installed the bolts that blank off the access points at the back of the head and on the thermostat housing are well and truly seized and show no willingness to move.

    Heater_plug2.jpgHeater_plug1.jpg

    I'm happy to take advice on non-destructive ways to free these bolts - so far penetrating fluid and a solid breaker bar with a six-sided 13/16" socket haven't been effective. Probably needs some heat and an impact driver. One thing that I'm not sure of is what the animal(s) is that I am dealing with in terms of the two bolts - e.g. how long are they, thread etc.

    Open to advice.

    Cheers,

    Neil
    1975 S3 88" - Ratel

  2. #2
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    Neil,

    Found a couple of part numbers in a Series III parts manual.

    3/8" BSF
    536577 - Plug for Sump Or Head 3/8 BSF.2.25 P and D. 2.5D NA 2.5TD



    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '58 Series II (sold)
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C

  3. #3
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    I have just removed the fittings in my engine i will check thread size and get back to you.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gippslander View Post
    I have just removed the fittings in my engine i will check thread size and get back to you.
    Thanks.

    Appreciated.

    Cheers,

    Neil
    1975 S3 88" - Ratel

  5. #5
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    Neil, have you tried CRC Freeze Off. Give it a spray & leave correct amount of time then use your breaker bar. Also, if you give it a sharp hit on the head of the plug will loosen the rust on the thread. Once you get it moving screw it back & forward until it turns free could be the thread on the plug is longer than the thread in the head so you will need to clean the rust away .
    Wayne

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1950landy View Post
    Neil, have you tried CRC Freeze Off. Give it a spray & leave correct amount of time then use your breaker bar. Also, if you give it a sharp hit on the head of the plug will loosen the rust on the thread. Once you get it moving screw it back & forward until it turns free could be the thread on the plug is longer than the thread in the head so you will need to clean the rust away .
    Wayne
    Wayne,

    Hello again and thanks - appreciate your suggestion. Looking at the part photo that Colin sent in the second post the shank might not be too long and hopefully won’t be longer than the threaded aperture. Makes sense that it shouldn’t be but who knows with these things?

    I did try an application of freeze spray early on but didn’t have the six-sided 13/16” socket in 1/2” drive. My 1/2” socket set only had 12 pointed sockets while another set with a six-sided socket was a smaller drive with a ratchet handle. So, I was reluctant to really get stuck into it for fear of rounding the bolt head and making a bad situation worse.

    I picked up a 1/2” x 13/16” impact socket yesterday and first go with the breaker bar didn’t move it. So, now I’ll first try an impact driver and if that doesn’t work might have to resort to heat - was trying to avoid burning the head paint but that might not be an option if the impact doesn’t work.

    Working on my late Dad’s principle that anything man made can be man unmade I’m confident that it can be overcome.

    Cheers,

    Neil
    1975 S3 88" - Ratel

  7. #7
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    Gromit is correct it is part number 536577 which is 3/8” BSF unfortunately some gorilla had modified mine to 3/8” NPT. Good luck with removal if nothing else works perhaps drilling it out may work.

  8. #8
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    3/8 BSF ? Shouldn't that be BSP ? BSF seems a bit small.
    .W.

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    Quote Originally Posted by B.S.F. View Post
    3/8 BSF ? Shouldn't that be BSP ? BSF seems a bit small.
    .W.
    Hello again.

    I was thinking much the same thing - that it would be a BSP fitting.

    The attachment fittings that I have to go back into the threaded apertures are certainly not BSF.

    Cheers,

    Neil
    1975 S3 88" - Ratel

  10. #10
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    I am pretty certain it is BSP.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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