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Thread: Heater core - replacement

  1. #1
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    Heater core - replacement

    Hi Guys. 1976 Leyland S3 ex Aus in NZ.
    PXL_20230721_001425233.jpg
    Someone fitted a 4.1 XF Falcon motor in it which drives lovely with 3.54 diffs but heater is useless in spite of acid flushes etc etc.
    PXL_20230721_001433250.jpg
    Where would I find a new heater core?
    UK parts sites don't seem to show this style of heater.
    Thanks
    Neil

  2. #2
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    It was a locally sourced heater on the Australian models.
    I don't know if the core is unique or based on something off-the-shelf so you might have to find someone parting out an Australian Series III.
    Alternatively a radiator repairer might be able to re-core it.

    The ON/OFF valve looks like it's been bypassed.
    Is the core leaking ? If not is it blocked or just not correctly connected ?

    You also have to realise that the heat output was below average as standard so maybe your heater is OK.

    Colin
    Last edited by gromit; 21st July 2023 at 08:19 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by gromit;[URL="tel:3198738"
    3198738[/URL]]

    You also have to realise that the heat output was below average as standard so maybe your heater is OK.

    Colin
    indeed. The heater in my S111 was put there merely to increase the opportunity for leaks, and those Ford engines didn’t run very hot, and the application wouldn’t have been very demanding.
    ​JayTee

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    I drove My S3 SWB Daily to a Land Rover coffee morning.
    Door tops off and sides rolled up. Passenger said, when picked up, 'Thought you were joking about the door tops coming off'
    4 Oc when leaving at 5.30am. Glad the heater actually worked.......Well an Hr down the road when the motor warmed up.
    Most of the Land Rovers I had with Holden motors fitted had heater disconnected.

    whitehillbilly

  5. #5
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    The valve could be the source of your issues as well. They corrode open or closed and then don’t run anymore. I think the easiest replacement for the valve was an off the shelf one here in OZ but I can’t remember the car model (think it was a Ford, maybe XY). Cheers, Matt

    Quote Originally Posted by brookvale View Post
    Where would I find a new heater core?
    UK parts sites don't seem to show this style of heater.
    Thanks
    Neil

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by drfish View Post
    The valve could be the source of your issues as well. They corrode open or closed and then don’t run anymore. I think the easiest replacement for the valve was an off the shelf one here in OZ but I can’t remember the car model (think it was a Ford, maybe XY). Cheers, Matt
    The heater valve is disconnected in the photo.
    Replacements are available from Rare Spares.
    Ford Heater Tap Assembly XW XY ZC ZD | HT2001
    I think from memory you have to re-orientate some parts to replicate the Series III valve.

    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

  7. #7
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    So it is - you’ve got a sharp eye Colin! Cheers, Matt

    Quote Originally Posted by gromit View Post
    The heater valve is disconnected in the photo.
    Replacements are available from Rare Spares.
    Ford Heater Tap Assembly XW XY ZC ZD | HT2001
    I think from memory you have to re-orientate some parts to replicate the Series III valve.

    Colin

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    The heater taps are serviceable.
    I have pulled two apart, cleaned and replaced.

    whitehillbilly

  9. #9
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    Thanks guys. I had kept the original post short but now the eagles have landed...
    The heater valve was disconnected when I started to investigate lack of calories in the heater.
    Removal and bypassing it made no difference whatsoever. I did renovate the valve and it now works but didn't bother plumbing it back in.
    The Ford motor doesn't run very hot in on-road use as people have noted. I even took off the fan to get the water hotter..
    It copes well even when idling for 10 mins but when off-roading/sand driving it would boil after 20 mins or so - so fitted Kenlowe style electric fan to cope set to switch on at 90C.
    Even then heater was useless with temp of both inlet and outlet hoses going up to 85C

    Tried testing water flow with outlet pipe from heater off - gallons spurted out with engine running, so no obvious full blockage.
    My guess the water is simply bypassing all of the cores somehow.
    No leaks nowhere.

    Oh well, I might just have to pull the thing out and see what's what and find a radiator person.
    cheers
    Neil

  10. #10
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    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    The water is probably only going through one or two tubes in the core. The way to fix this is to remove at least one tank and push a thin rod through each tube. This is labout intensive, and hence likely to be an expensive option if you cannot find a replacement or do this yourself.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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