Thread: Series III gearbox and clutch advice needed

That symptom can be caused by either clutch or gearbox problems, but in Landrovers is almost always a clutch problem.

And it is usually a problem with the clutch hydraulics. Check fluid level, and bleed the clutch system. If this fixes it, it is definitely the clutch hydraulics, and you haven't fixed it other than temporarily. Even if this does not fix the problem, it may still be the hydraulics - look for brake fluid on the front floor and from the wading plug hole to show whether it is the master or slave cylinder. I would be inclined to plan on replacing or overhauling both, and replace the flexible hose while you are at it (these rarely give trouble, but sometimes do, and it will be very old in all probability).

If not the actual hydraulics, it could be pedal adjustment, or gear oil on the clutch or a well worn release bearing.

John

Originally Posted by JDNSW

That symptom can be caused by either clutch or gearbox problems, but in Landrovers is almost always a clutch problem.

And it is usually a problem with the clutch hydraulics. Check fluid level, and bleed the clutch system. If this fixes it, it is definitely the clutch hydraulics, and you haven't fixed it other than temporarily. Even if this does not fix the problem, it may still be the hydraulics - look for brake fluid on the front floor and from the wading plug hole to show whether it is the master or slave cylinder. I would be inclined to plan on replacing or overhauling both, and replace the flexible hose while you are at it (these rarely give trouble, but sometimes do, and it will be very old in all probability).

If not the actual hydraulics, it could be pedal adjustment, or gear oil on the clutch or a well worn release bearing.

John

Thanks for that John, I'll pass it onto my son, he is in good hands at the moment the 2 Brians BMKAL and LieutenantRover in Kalgoorlie are helping him learn the Land Rover ways, Regards Frank.

Originally Posted by Tank

Thanks for that John, I'll pass it onto my son, he is in good hands at the moment the 2 Brians BMKAL and LieutenantRover in Kalgoorlie are helping him learn the Land Rover ways, Regards Frank.

With them helping he is, as you say, in good hands.

John

Originally Posted by Tank

My son (who is on the other side of the country) is looking at buying a 109 SIII, it seems that if you pull up and shift to neutral, when you go to move off the gearbox will not go into 1st gear, if you turn the motor off it will go into gear, hold the clutch in and start up and all's good till you have to stop again.
I have had no experience with this model Land rover (though I am restoring one at the moment), anyone had this problem, could it be the hydraulic clutch master and slave cylinder or something with the synchro's on first or whatever, any advice would be most welcome, Regards Frank.

hi mate i think youll find that this model is full time awd so the only time you put the hi-lo gear into neautral is for towing other than that it will be in hi-gear for every day driving these models are not dis-engaged for highway the old series3 are good for about 80kmh they were made after all for farms in britain. hope this helps

Hi frank we just fixed the clutch on the booger it turned out to be the first flexible hose two probs one was it was expanding and clutch not disengaging properly then the throttle linkage had rubed a small hole in the same hose enventually losing small amounts of fluid replaced hose and all was well

the series III (unless its a stage 1) is a part time four wheel drive its easy to tell if you have part time or full time.

if you have a push down yellow knob near the main shift and a red handled lever you can pull back coming out of the floor adjacent to the transmission tunnel then its part time.

theres a data plate that tells you how to get from fwd hi to 2wd high by going back into low range on the firewall about inline with the main gearbox lever. It should also say something about not engaging four wheel drive on the road as tyre life will be reduced.

over 90% of the time the problem you are describing is caused by clutch drag, this is typically bought about by a problem with the clutch hydraulics but if the vehicle has been sitting around for a long time it can also be the clutch plate mucked up with rust.

the final cause is bearing related and is easily distinguished by trying to select reverse. use this method

Start the car, put your foot on the clutch and then try to select reverse if it grates and wont go in then its the clutch, if it drops in with a minimum of fuss then its the rear bearing. once its gone into reverse slide it out and try first gear again. if it baulks then its the clutch dragging and for one final check put it into second prior to engaging first if it doesnt want to go in try reverse. if reverse grates its definately the clutch.

Being an old box you may find that the syncros on first gear are pretty much gone so that will exaggerate any motion of the shafts while trying to pick first.

some other things to check are the quality and condition of the fluid in the clutch master cylinder, the condition of the hose on the slave, the freeplay setting on the pedal and if the pedal is firm or has any give in it.

get it anyway series gearboxes cost about $70 to re-bearing in parts and the clutch is a piece of cake to sort.

Hi all I'm new to Landrover, I've recently bought a 1976 SW S3 off a friend of mine. It has a Holden 186 motor and goes pretty well. The Fairy overdrive has benn pulled out as it was slipping out of gear when stopped at lights I've been told its stuffed. I hear that these O/D can be problematic and have been advised not to bother with it. The other problem I have is when going down a very steep hill in either low or high range the gearbox jumps out of 1st gear but transfer case is ok. Any help here would be greatly apprieciated. I guess I'm going to need lots of advice. Ta Eddie S.

Eddie,

I have just been discussing a similar thing at the REMLR technical page for my series 3 ex military.

'Uncle Ho' suggested I look at the spring and ball locators on the 1st / 2nd selector rod. (under middle seat hatch). - see that thread.

The fairy OD can be a sought after item, I wouldnt toss it, you can buy the gear and the shaft (new) if they are worn.

Rob King
78 FFR series 3 6 cyl