At the top of this Series III forum in the "sticky's" there are links to W/shop Manuals, Regards Frank.Quote:
Originally Posted by stomps
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At the top of this Series III forum in the "sticky's" there are links to W/shop Manuals, Regards Frank.Quote:
Originally Posted by stomps
For the guys that offered help re my front end dramas, thanks, I really appreciate your time and effort
Next update-
Did what Jimbo110 suggested and put it into 2wd in nuatral and es the front prop shaft turned. Good news I guess.
This morning on the way to work - I had no choice - bshe was pretty noisy in the front end, however settled in and drove pretty much normally. I am not for a second saying it cured just a lot quieter.
I went back and checked the notes given to me by Fred Smith who built the old girl and they are as follows:
a. Rear diff is a 3.54:1, 24 spline saulbury series 3 V8 diff fitted with a manual McNamara diff lock
b. The front is a 10 spline diff which I was told was also 3.54:1
c. The transfer case is Hi range(1.15:1) and Low range (2.888:1)
Does this all sound ok so far?
Obviously the fr diff that I have is not up to the job so where to now?
Someone was selling a stage 1 diff a while ago, is this my best option?
I just want something that is not going to break especially when your stuck it on the other side of Fraser Island in 2wd. My mates were astounded that I managed to get from one side of Fraser to the mainland in 2wd.
I love the car Ive just fallen out of love with my front diff.
Thanks,
Tim.
Any one know of a stage 1 fr diff for sale?
You need to pull the front end apart and see if it is the diff or a front axle - although just draining the diff oil and see how many lumps come out may tell you where the problem is.
From memory (away from home and no references), the front diff as described will be a standard diff as used by RR classic, Discovery, Stage 1, 110, Defender, and although it is not the strongest around, by far the cheapest and easiest is to simply replace it with a similar one - should be cheap and easy to find a second hand one (and just repeat as necessary!). Beyond that you can fit various upgraded diff centres, but all will be much more expensive and harder to find.
John
If you need any parts give Dennis a call on 0405313413. I'm sure he will have something around or know where to get one. He is very helpful and lives in bris
The stage 1 front it the way to go. They have the AEU1828 cvs:D just get a 24 spline diff center (good excuse to put a locker in:angel: Get some Hi-Tough axles part nos HTE1829.24 (short) HTE1830.24 (long) Hi-Tough engineering 0755304123Quote:
Originally Posted by stomps
The V8 Stage1s are coming up on ebay a bit these days. You may have to buy a complete one and part it out to cover the cost;)
Your rear set up is good.:)
With your curent setup if the front shats its self wile on a trip just pull the axles out and put drive flanges back on. If you have no locking hubs. Then take front drive shaft off so can use low range. Then finish your trip in 2wd:eek: Tony
Tim your transfer box is out of a Series IIa suffix A or B - the ratio in top is actually 1.148:1 and the 2.888:1 for low transfer is correct. Ideally it is one from a suffix B with the larger intermediate gear shaft.Quote:
Originally Posted by stomps
There was a complete Stage 1 front end on the Sunshine Coast a while back - vendor wanted $1,000 for it. AULRO Classifieds - Message - Powered by PhotoPost Classifieds
Diana
Thanks heaps guys this is a saga that hopefully will have a happy ending.
Sourced the stage 1 diff and will pick it up on Saturday.
More questions:
Is $700 for a complete diff ok?
Are stage 1 diffs 24 spline and are the ratios the same as my rear (Im assuming that they are.
I found the manuals on the series 3 site (thanks Tank).
How I identify the diff when it is standing infront of me.
And are they pretty bullet proof. I like bullet proof things.
I have replaced plenty of diffs in my life none of them Rovers. Will the stage 1 just slide in, ie same propshaft lengths, brake connections, spring mounts etc. or do I require modifications, as if I need more, (the dash looks like the flight deck of a Sea King chopper)
I just want a strong reliable rover that goes where I want it to. My buisness partner drives a F250 and just cant understand why I love my 37 yo girl and there was nothing more depressing than him pulling me off the beach. mind you he couldn't believe that you could get from one side of Fraser (right up North) back to the mainland in 2wd. Before the diff went all the young blokes fell in love with her.
Gotta love a Landy.
Thanks all,
Tim
Am assuming you are talking about the stage 1 axle assembly! (Axle casing, Swivel housings, CVs, halfshafts, brakes, hubs and diff) an recent example: a stage 1 CV joint went for $250 on ebay about 3 weeks ago.Quote:
Originally Posted by stomps
The Stage 1 has 24 spline outer halfshafts, same as S3 109" the diff is 10 spline the same as early Range Rover classics, Countys and early Defender.Quote:
Originally Posted by stomps
24 spline diffs with the same ratio are found on the last of the Range Rover classics and Discovery I (but are not the same diff as the late Defenders, Discovery II and P38a Range Rover.)
The Stage 1 front axle assembly will bolt in exactly where your current axle assembly is located. There is a slight difference on the angle of the pinion, which could make the prop shaft compressed length a little shorter but your current prop shaft should fit O.K.
The brakes etc are the same or interchangeable, although the Stage 1 will have 16M wheel studs where you may have 9/16" imperial wheel studs (unlikely if you have a Salisbury rear).
You may want to consider the Hi-Tough hybrid halfshafts and Discovery 24 spline diff as mentioned above, to make it as bullet proof as possible. As said - ideal time to fit a Detroit true trak diff centre.Quote:
Originally Posted by stomps
Others will have to tell us whether you can fit the True Trak diff centre to a Stage 1 diff carrier and only swap the halfshafts.
Diana :)
Do you know this? It could just have suffix B low range and intermediate gears - which is a common mod.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies
I sold a stage 1 diff years ago for $200. I wouldn't pay any more than 200ish for one. As mentioned, there are plenty of complete stage 1s to be had for $1000 or less.
EDIT - I have a Stage 1 front axle in my IIA. It has held up surprisingly well (including the 10-spline inners).
:mad: Someone's being more pedantic than me!
No I don't know that it has a suffix A or B transfer case.
However:
- The casings S1 to Suffix A are the same and the Casings Suffix B to H are the same.
- The intermediate shafts < suffix B are all the same and similarly the shafts > A are the same.
- All the bits inside the transfer, like the selectors, output shafts etc., are the same.
- The only bit that are different are the intermediate gear and low ratio gear.
Having a Suffix A or Suffix B intermediate gear and low ratio gear, would make any box functionally suffix A or suffix B box wouldn't it? :confused:
C Ya
Diana :) :) :)