Series 3 Rebuild.

Hey wozapinin that sounds great, would love to see those photos.:)

I'm going to pull the sender I have out of the original 16 gallon tank today and see how far the main body goes down. I think you're right banjo, I should be able to bend or maybe shorten the float rod to make it work in a tank that does not go as deep. If all else fails I'll find a different sender that will work from the wrecker.

Thanks LandyBen, I'm having a good time doing it so far. I've actually said out loud a few times to myself, "well that's easy" and similar comments, as most other cars I've worked on in the past you need to pull out ten major components just to get to one little problem! This must be the first vehicle I've ever worked on this much without throwing something in anger and frustration.

"The Disco 200tdi, turbo, radiator and intercooler will be going in the engine bay. I'm modding the S3 radiator support to fit the radiator and intercooler in the same configuration as the Disco. They will sit slighty higher to clear the steering arm.

The S3 gearbox is being rebuilt and the transfer case is having a high range conversion which should give me 3000rpm in 4th at 100kph."



Did you start with a 4cyl or 6cyl in the series 3? and who is doing the gearbox rebuild? yourself?

Cheers
Jim

here's the dash pics,the 1st ones the front of the s2 dash,2nd back of s2dash, 3rd the dashless s3, 4th and 5th s2 dash in position ready to be welded.:D At the time it was a good idea as i had the bits but I've since scored a good s2 bulkhead and will use that instead:angel:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jimmy

"The Disco 200tdi, turbo, radiator and intercooler will be going in the engine bay. I'm modding the S3 radiator support to fit the radiator and intercooler in the same configuration as the Disco. They will sit slighty higher to clear the steering arm.

The S3 gearbox is being rebuilt and the transfer case is having a high range conversion which should give me 3000rpm in 4th at 100kph."



Did you start with a 4cyl or 6cyl in the series 3? and who is doing the gearbox rebuild? yourself?

Cheers
Jim

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Hi Jim,

I'm starting out with a 4cl 2.25 Diesel and doing the gearbox rebuild myself. The gearbox is crunching unless you have the revs right into 3rd and popping out of second. The second gearbox I have is crunching in 3rd and 4th. I figure I may as well rebuild the worst one and keep the second as a spare.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TJWA

Hi Jim,

I'm starting out with a 4cl 2.25 Diesel and doing the gearbox rebuild myself. The gearbox is crunching unless you have the revs right into 3rd and popping out of second. The second gearbox I have is crunching in 3rd and 4th. I figure I may as well rebuild the worst one and keep the second as a spare.

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So does the 300Tdi pretty much bolt up to the 4cyl diesel box? besides engines mounts will you need to modify anything else?

cheers
Jim

The 300TDI will not bolt up to the 4cl box, the Discovery 200TDI which I'm using will.

You have to pull out two dowells from the flywheel housing and enlarge 4 other holes to fit allen bolts in. Then the engine and gearbox will bolt up.

The original 4cl Diesel clutch bolts onto the 200TDI flywheel with no problems.

You can use the standard 4cl Diesel mounts which bolt straight onto the engine.

The radiator support has to be modified to fit the intercooler and oil cooler.

The turbo on the Disco 200TDI just clears the 88'' chassis, but needs modification or a Defender manifold to fit in a 109''.

If you remove the power steering pulley the alternator has to be moved forward as the belt is out of alignment. This can be done by using spacers.

Here is one of many websites covering the conversion:
Converting a Series Land Rover to 200 Tdi diesel

Today I purchased a CIG Transmig 135 MIG Welder that welds with or without gas. I started work on the chassis dumbirons using it in gasless mode which has given me good results, much easier than using an arc welder. The drivers side dumbiron was cracked where it met the front crossmember, this repaired and cleaned up very well. As I started to weld a large 3mm crack on the passenger side dumbiron, the metal crumbled away revealing that it is heavily rusted around the inside of the crack. I've started to cut out this small section and will weld in a new piece of plate tomorrow.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TJWA

......... I've actually said out loud a few times to myself, "well that's easy" and similar comments, as most other cars I've worked on in the past you need to pull out ten major components just to get to one little problem! This must be the first vehicle I've ever worked on this much without throwing something in anger and frustration.

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The interesting thing about this comment is that in the 1960s the Landrover was considered by many to be hard to work on compared to the run of the mill Australian car! Shows how much things have changed!

John

G'day,
You say you found a chasis in the eastern states. I am in the eastern states, namely QLD. I am looking for a chasis for my SIII SWB, and having no luck at finding a good one. Any ideas??
Thanks, and I will follow your resto with interest.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JDNSW

The interesting thing about this comment is that in the 1960s the Landrover was considered by many to be hard to work on compared to the run of the mill Australian car! Shows how much things have changed!

John

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Not for me aarrrgghhhh!!!! I swear that my IIA LWB hated me and did not want to be re registered... gave me alot of grief, there are alot of nuts and botls and really annoying palces made even worse by 30+ years of rust :mad: not to mention the sheer amount of grease and grime on the whole underside of my vehicle.

I suppose i am spoilt by also owning a Kingswood which is SOOO EASY to work on, you could swing a cat in the engine bay of my HZ.