Series 3 Rebuild.

**TJWA** · 13th May 2009, 02:43 PM

Originally Posted by Psimpson7

TJWA,

sorry to say but I was the one selling them on ebay. I put them in seperate listings hoping that they would go to 2 different people and the problem would go away.

I even put a post on the forum with pictures.

I moaned at the supplier a lot and they got all shirty with me and said that their mechanic said they would be fine.

Sorry about that. You could do what I was going to and cut them up to get the patches you need. In the end I just cut them out of plate.

Drop me a PM if you like.

Rgds
Pete

It's OK, I've dealt with it.

I sent photos to allfourx4 in Newcastle and they are sending me a matching left hand one to the Bearmach Right hand one.

I have a sneaking suspicion that the parts supplier in Melbourne you've mentioned is the same one I had hassles with earlier in this thread, I'll pm you.

Back to the gearbox rebuild...

**TJWA** · 16th May 2009, 06:54 PM

My brother in law (Landy obsessed) and I have the gearbox and transfer case apart. It looks as though I'll just need to replace the bearings, gaskets and synchro's.

I picked up the sheetmetal for the fuel tank, tacked it together and checked it in position for clearances. All as planned so far, although I should have put the hole for the filler a little lower and will have to put a bend in it, not a big deal.

**TJWA** · 17th May 2009, 04:52 PM

Wear leather gloves while using a grinder. 1mm cutting blades are very efficient at cutting through flesh and bone.

**Landy Smurf** · 17th May 2009, 05:00 PM

hey i have a 78litre fuel tank on my swb series 3

**TJWA** · 17th May 2009, 10:08 PM

Originally Posted by schmierer LR at singleton

hey i have a 78litre fuel tank on my swb series 3

Interesting, the 72 litre tank I had was mounted under the drivers seat, where is yours mounted? I wonder if there was another 78 litre tank commercially available for the 88''?

**isuzurover** · 18th May 2009, 03:19 PM

Originally Posted by TJWA

As for the exhaust, if it is legal in WA, I might exit it in front of the rear wheel, such as in these photos.

Just make sure the tip points down if you do that. When I moved to WA, I shipped my 110 county over from Brisbane, and needed to take it over the pits.

The (factory) exhaust exits diagonally at the left rear corner. Although my county still had the factory exhaust (as fitted to wa-delivered countys as well), the inspector made me cut the tip off and fit a tip that faced down, as he deemed it a side exiting exhaust, and according to him, the rules are in WA that all side exiting exhausts must face down ...

EDIT - btw - great project! If I were you I would sandblast and gal the chassis (and firewall) once the welding is finished. I would be interested to know where the 95c/kg quote was from!

**TJWA** · 18th May 2009, 10:05 PM

Thanks for the tip on the exhaust Isuzurover, I'll definately be facing it down now.

I was told 95c per Kg over the phone by:

Western Galvanisers | Perth, Australia

I think it may be a little more than that though looking at the costing guide from Pollards in Queensland:

http://www.pollards.com.au/pdf/RD015...alvanizing.pdf

It's still not anywhere near what I'd guessed it would be. I'm getting the firewall blasted now, as soon as the new dumb irons are on I'll be sending the chassis off to get done too, then it's off to West's for a dip along with everything else I can find on the vehicle that could do with it.

**bcr2734** · 19th May 2009, 04:20 PM

was quoted $2 per kg a couple of years ago in Newcastle.

**isuzurover** · 19th May 2009, 08:04 PM

Originally Posted by TJWA

Thanks for the tip on the exhaust Isuzurover, I'll definately be facing it down now.

I was told 95c per Kg over the phone by:

Western Galvanisers | Perth, Australia

I think it may be a little more than that though looking at the costing guide from Pollards in Queensland:

http://www.pollards.com.au/pdf/RD015...alvanizing.pdf

It's still not anywhere near what I'd guessed it would be. I'm getting the firewall blasted now, as soon as the new dumb irons are on I'll be sending the chassis off to get done too, then it's off to West's for a dip along with everything else I can find on the vehicle that could do with it.

Thanks for that. Zinc prices must have come down. They were the best price when I got some stuff done a year or so ago, but the price was about 1.20/kg. They also tried to add about 30kg to the weight.

**TJWA** · 28th May 2009, 10:24 AM

I've been pretty busy the last couple of weeks!

The new Bearmach Left dumbiron arrived, I cut off the old dumb irons, the original metal underneath was too rusted to weld over so I had to butt weld the new ones. I laid the chassis upright on a level cement floor and welded the dumbirons in position measuring their spring hangers from the floor.

I ended up going with another galvanising place in Perth that could sandblast the chassis and firewall onsite (Westgalv need it to be be done prior). This is costing $2 per kg instead, however the sandblasting is cheaper and I'm saving in transport costs.
When I got there on the day the boss at the office came out and looked at the chassis with a smile, he said it would dip fine and if there was any warpage it would be slight as it would pull itself back into line.
However the guy in the workshop was clearly not happy to see me with a chassis. He whinged and complained that it would definatley warp and be ruined beyond repair. I asked him how much it would warp, he stated that "they all warp, some are f'ing shocking while others are still bad". He would not take the chassis unless I wrote a statement on a piece of paper saying it may warp. I signed and drove off. I wasn't going to hire a trailer then drive 400kms to drive back again. I haven't heard back yet, that was last Friday.

Under my brother in law's direction we pulled apart my "bad" gearbox. The synchro hub is badly worn and the mainshaft has play. This, I have been told is the reason for 3rd crunching and 2nd jumping out. There is absolutely no gearbox number or suffix to be found anywhere on the cases. The layshaft is labelled "D".
I decided to pull my "good" gearbox apart which has a noisy reverse and crunching 3rd gear. This gearbox has a number and suffix "D". It also has the date 10/08/82 and "D" welded on the bottom of the bellhousing. The layshaft is labelled "C"! The 3 sychro clips on the sychro hub are missing, there was a heap of shavings in the bottom, the reverse gear is heavily damaged with the layshaft counterpart also showing extra wear.
I found that the "bad" box layshaft labelled "D" has more teeth on 1st gear.
I came to the conclusion the "bad" box with no markings and the layshaft labelled "D" is infact a Suffix "D" box.
The "good" box marked as suffix "D", with the layshaft labelled "C" and higher 1st is actually a Suffix "C" box. If anyone can correct me on this I would be most appreciative!
I decided to dismantle the "good" main shaft (which took me an extra hour due to an annoying little circlip I just couldn't get off), and swap the reverse gear, 1st gear and layshaft with the ones from the "bad" box.

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