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Spudfan,
my series 3 trayback used to burn around 10 litres/100 km however as has been stated the speed is about 50 to 55mph. Taking the fixed fan off and running an electric did wonders for both fuel consumption and cabin noise.
I ran 750-16 bandag mud and snow retreads on cross ply cases at the book suggested pressure and it was a reasonable ride for a spring vehicle.
pretty much unstoppable in low range :)
Dromader Driver. :)
Well i still haven't been able to get out to see my potential buy. The seller called me on Monday asking if i would like to go and see it on Wednesday which i agreed too until i spent all Tuesday night awake with a terrible fever. Now he is too busy so the waiting game begins again :(...
But atleast i have nothing to stress about as this is a completely private sale, he has not put it on the market at all :) And said he wont till i have looked at it and denied it of bought it.
Now for what i thought was a massive coinsedence, after talking to him on the phone my old man asked what the chaps name was and where he lives. My fathers reaction was along the lines of :o... which caused mine to change to :eek::(... Turns out it is a mate of my old mans for about 30 years!
What are the chances :)
Still no photos yet guys i am sorry!
The car has pretty much no rust! The doors are fine, the fire wall is in great condition! no rust there, and the spring hangers and cross members were all great... and i also had a look at the radiator mounts and a general look around no rust :) This thing is in unbelievable condition for its age!
Mechanically the Gearbox is the only real drama. I will get some pictures as soon as i can! I am going to test drive it next week and test all the transfer case and free wheeling hubs etc. Being my first series land rover i am very excited and hope to keep in in just as good a nick as it has been kept for so long.
I can not wait to get out in the scrub in it and see how it goes in the mud :twisted:... i am excited to get it muddy and not fear getting mud and water in the car... :angel:
Which brings me to the question of how well do these things cope with water? obviously it will accelerate the rate of rust but the occasional swim should be ok if due care is taken before and after? Is it easy to make up a homemade snorkle and diff breather kit?
The limiting factor for wading is the air intake and crancase breathers. Both are about level with the top of the mudguards, and something across the radiator and careful driving should allow operation to this level without danger to the engine. (but loosen the fanbelt and make sure the wading plug is fitted) The axle breathers however, are on the axles, and the gearbox/transfer case on top of the gearbox. It would be fairly easy to extend the axle breathers, a bit more difficult to extend the gearbox one. Unless you want to go through water deeper than this, I would not bother with a snorkel - their main function is to get the intake up out of the dust, and this would be a worthwhile objective. But you probably have the separate crankcase breathers, and if these are extended into a snorkel, care is needed to ensure you don't end up with poor crankcase ventilation and condensation.Quote:
Originally Posted by Grover-98
John
John
What is this "wading plug" that you mentioned? :)
There is a hole in the bottom (actually the bottom front) of the flywheel housing to let out any oil, leaking from the main crankshaft seal or input seal on the gearbox, before it gets on your clutch. The hole is threaded, 3/8BSP I think, and there should be (but rarely is) a bracket adjoining it to hold the plug when not in use. Fit the plug when planning to wade, otherwise leave it out.Quote:
Originally Posted by Grover-98
John
I bought a wading plug on ebay the other week - only a few dollars.Quote:
Originally Posted by JDNSW
I've been looking around all my hard discs for the injector pump mods and that's what I found which was posted on the old Black Stump forum:
Quote:
... did you end up getting your pump modified by Rocklea Diesel?
I found out some of what they do (allegedly) to it so you can do it yourself.
There are essentially two changes:
1) to the springs and plunger in the horizontal advance/retard barrel (on the engine side of the pump)
2) to the linkages inside the housing on the other side of the pump
I don't know exactly what they do to (2) besides that they change the linkage positions to alternate ones, however to (1) they cut down the piston and replace the springs with weaker ones.
Apparently, just replacing the springs with slightly weaker ones will have a big difference on performance. It is extremely easy to do and there is no harm in experimenting until you get something you are happy with.
The rest of this thread was about internal injector pump seals and o-rings which I deleted.Quote:
[...] on the pump, on the side facing the engine there is a steel cylinder about half way up, mounted horizontally, with a nut at each end. This bit advances or retards the pump timing as the engine revs change, so changes to this bit shouldn't make the engine smoke, or affect fuel use much, but can have a reasonable effect on performance. If you remove the nut closest to the front of the engine, you will find two coil springs inside. Swapping one or both for softer springs or even removing the inner one can increase performance. Although if you make them too soft the engine will ping a bit under hard acceleration, because the pump will advance too quickly.
Could not find any other info, but I am still searching. The above thread was posted almost exactly 8 years ago.
--- Irek
Went to have a look at the landy today. Finally managed to get up out of bed. Well the verdict is as follows...
General body condition etc for a 31 year old landy is great! with a polish and a lick of paint on a couple of areas it would come up a dream! The gear box jumps out of second and sometimes third on back off... and syncro on third is not to be desired. Steering is great, handbrake is fine, brakes are fine, tyres are new and sitting on sunnys, One door top is rusted little rust on the fire wall but very LITTLE!
I has a bullbar, brush bars, side steps and long ranger tank, Spoties, UHF radio rear tyre swing out (i will be taking this off and putting the tyre on the bonnet) flexy flares and roof rack...
Just needs new speedo cable, door top, the exhaust manifold has a little leak, and one of the spring mounts rubbers is worn. All of these are easy cheap fixes. The wiring for the over head console also needs a little clean up lots of loose connections up there!
Here are some pictures... sorry poor lighting and i was using my mobile...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...009/07/827.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...009/07/828.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...009/07/829.jpg
He is asking for $2500 and seems pretty stern on that! he said he will get a pink slip as by law with less then a months rego he has too. The rego runs out on the 31st. So if i add $1000 to the price to allow for rego, green slip and third party insurance. I have thought about club plates, but i then realise i will only be able to drive it to shows and not take it out at will. Any suggestions? i want to keep it on the road as cheap as possible as it is my second car.
Cheers guys! Let me know what your thoughts are :)
James.
Looks reasonable, although with almost no rego the price may be a little high. Note that the owner will need to get the speedo working for a pink slip unless he has a tame inspection service - and if he does you have to wonder what else is being overlooked! It may not be the cable - speedo will stop working if the nut holding the output flange onto the transfer case shaft is slightly loose.
John