Series III (burned) rebuild

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Originally Posted by lane

Yes, those are the two lenses I'm talking about. OK, that's good -they are definitely reversing lights. I think my theory about the ADR compliance is likely to be right, given the absence of any sign of those in the wiring diagrams, and the additional wire running inside the chassis to the rear. Also, those lights are positioned like add-ons.

My switch is missing, but also there is no wiring running down to there, which makes it hard to work out how it was set up. What colour is the wire to the switch, and what's its route, if you can see?

Also, while you're at it, what route did the speedo cable take through the engine bay? Does it run under the sump, forward of the sump, or over the water pump or something like that?

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I note that the 1981 Series 3 I have the remains of was fitted with reversing lights, but the circuit in the owners handbook that came with it does not mention these, so I assume they were an ADR addition (definitely not fitted by the owner - it was never registered or used on-road!). Switch is similar to the brake switch, but is mounted in a hole in the rear of the bracket that holds the gear lever.

The speedo cable runs across the top of the flywheel housing behind the cylinder block and down the LH side of the gearbox.

John

Thanks JD.

I've managed to find a new switch (West Coast Rover in Kenwick ~ $40) which is expensive but convenient. Apparently they are made of brass.

I've also ordered an electronic ignition kit to fit the dizzy from Land Rover parts - Home (~$70) along with an electronic ignition suitable coil. I'll take the GT40 back for refund.

There is no such thing as a free lunch or a cheap car... :)

Cheers,
Lane.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by lane

Thanks JD.

I've managed to find a new switch (West Coast Rover in Kenwick ~ $40) which is expensive but convenient. Apparently they are made of brass.

I've also ordered an electronic ignition kit to fit the dizzy from Land Rover parts - Home (~$70) along with an electronic ignition suitable coil. I'll take the GT40 back for refund.

There is no such thing as a free lunch or a cheap car... :)

Cheers,
Lane.

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Although you have a switch on the way you'll need to have the spring loaded bracket to activate it. Is your gearstick mount and reverse selector fitted with them?

If not the reverse selector will need two holes drilled into it to accomodate the bracket and the gearstick mount will need to be drilled and threaded to fit the switch. Here are two photos, the first without the switch and bracket fitted. The video shows the activation.

Thanks TJ, marvellous. :)

Love you fuel tank, too! Enormous!

My gear selector doesn't even have the hole, let alone the switch! I need to have a word with the bloke I got it from... :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by lane

Thanks TJ, marvellous. :)

Love you fuel tank, too! Enormous!

My gear selector doesn't even have the hole, let alone the switch! I need to have a word with the bloke I got it from... :)

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Well......

It just so happens I have a spare modified selector and gearstick mount from a decomissioned gearbox I have. PM me your address and I'll send them to you. I'll take the gearstick out of the mount so it sends easier.
With the switch you have on the way you'll have everything you need.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by lane

Thanks TJ, marvellous. :)

Love you fuel tank, too! Enormous!

My gear selector doesn't even have the hole, let alone the switch! I need to have a word with the bloke I got it from... :)

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Got both and will save them for next time you go past:D

TJ, thanks for the offer - PM sent. Here's my base. I assume it's an older one.

Also attached are two pics of the Ford Falcon XE alternator we fitted. It's 65 Amps rather than the original 35A one, to ensure we can run a few accessories without hassles. To fit it was a relatively easy task, since the front leg sat on the original Land Rover bracket and aligned one of the pulleys, and the rear leg then needed to be cut as well as the bracket so that they would mate nicely. So we took around a quarter of an inch off each - from the rear of the leg and the front of the rear bracket leg. I think it is still strong enough but I guess time will tell!

The curved adjustment bracket on top is from a Peugeot - 504 or 505 (can't recall).

Cheers,
Lane.

Hey! You already have the reverse selector bracket that is used to activate the switch. :) I've circled it in yellow.

Hold the gearstick in the reverse position and that plate should be flipped up and towards the back drivers side of the gearstick mount where the reverse switch should be.
Here is the shifting pattern:
R 1 3

2 4

All you need to do is drill a hole there and tap it to the thread to suit the switch you get. I've circled the rough position in blue. :cool:

Yes, understood, TJ.

Btw, do you know how yours is wired?

Are we there yet? :)

Must be getting close now. All we have left is the carby (awaiting a kit) and a few odds and ends around the engine, including setting up the ignition.

A couple of photos below. Bought a windscreen washer kit from MALZ today for $27. Good value I think, and seems OK quality - photo below.

Was given a Discovery roo bar which was bent and didn't fit (chassis must be wider) and would have sat way too high if it did fit. So, we cut off the mounting arms and fabricated some new ones out of some angle iron and managed to make it all fit and look OK. A coat of satin black and couple of Hella lights and he's looking like he means business!

Cheers,
Lane.