Series III (burned) rebuild

Thanks Jono. I just realised the photo isn't that clear. From right to left you can see the clutch pedal box/master cylinder assembly, the brake pedal box/master cylinder assembly, the brake booster/master cylinder assembly, with the steering box below and between the brake and clutch pedal boxes (shiny alloy).

saw that had it up on the tv screen im intrested to find out what the brakes are like as the shorty wont get them but the 109 might

And a close-up. I checked the Haynes manual and it says that the boosted brake versions were dual systems...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by lane

Thanks TJ and Jono.
Questions for anybody who has time, please:

2. Any advice on dealing with surface rust/pitting to prevent later reoccurrance?

On steel it must be sand-blasted, or soaked in molasses solution to completely remove all of the rust and then treated with a rust converter. Despite what the rust converters say on their labels, in my experience they do not penetrate rust much at all, so it is better to get all of the rust out of the pits first.

3. Under-body paint options? (tar, etc)

No need for this on aluminium panels; on the chassis I think several layers of good quality paint, followed by a rust preventer seems the best idea, as any rust that starts can be found in its early stages. From the tests I am doing at the moment, Penetrol is outperforming anything else I have tried at preventing the re-occurrence of rust and keeping existing rust under control.

4. Recommended ignition set-up for a Series III (1977) 4 cylinder?

Lots of options here; I have used Crane Cams electronic ignition on my V8 and been very happy with it.

6. Also, given that the wiring is almost all off the vehicle, would you replace it by making a new harness or just put it all back, checking and repairing as required? I really don't know how badly wiring deteriorates over 30 years.

Give the harness a bend and a shake, whilst listening for any cracking in the insulation and feeling for the same thing on single wires. If they feel supple and look in good condition they probably are.

Cheers,
Lane.

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Cheers Charlie

Looking gooood:)
I'll have to get a series project one day;)

G'day All, I'm not Series 3 specialist, but that brake booster you have there is not for a dual circuit braking system, the Series 3's with dual braking systems were fitted with a brake booster that was bolted onto the pedal housing (in line booster) with the M/cylinder incorported, from there 2 brake lines tracked down to a ? valve in the system mounted on the chassis just below the steering box from memory, I have a dual circuit M/cyl brake booster ah la late Series 3, the system that you have provided it's servicable should work OK, the booster is probably a VH-44? or a variant of that, parts would be available at a reputable brake shop cheers Dennis:angel:
ps I didnt see your other post re booster, if you wanted to fit a in-line Series Land Rover type booster, you will have to cut the bulkhead where the pedal comes through, as the pedal/booster assembly, is a different design to the std Land Rover brake pedal, the pivot point for the pedal is much higher, and works in a different direction (clear as mud LOL)

Here's mine Lane.

I believe that this is the type that Dinty was referring to. It's installed in my 1979 Series 3 SWB Ute . You can see the two lines coming off the master cylinder, which goes into a brake failure switch assembly and then to the brakes.

G'day All, Spot on Wolfman_TWP cheers Dennis:angel:

Yes, Wolfman, that looks like the one the Haynes manual mentions also. I think mine must be aftermarket. Anyway, as long as it works I'm happy.

Has anybody put akit through their clutch and brake master cylinders, or is it better to grab an exchange one of each? (I presume they're available...)