Thread: Disc Brake Conversion.

I, personally, would never run RRC/Disco rear calipers on the front of a series. Though they may be as effective as some of the bolt-on kits.

RRC / Disco front calipers are smaller than 110 front calipers.

You can fit RRC front calipers onto a series - you have to remove the mounting brackets and use the bolts holding the caliper halves together, but it is possible without too much difficulty.

Originally Posted by Jonno

The answer to the problem is actually quite simple. You need 2 pieces of plate steel, about 10mm will do. You then have them machined so that they look like a big ring with a big tab sticking out. Drill holes in the ring section of it so you can bolt it to the stub axle flange. Drill 2 holes in the tab section appropriately spaced and bolt on Range Rover or early Disco calipers, you need the rear ones. Pull all the brake components off your series diff so that you have nothing but a stub axle and hub left. Put the brake rotor on the hub with a couple of nuts to hold it in place. Sit the calliper over the rotor and start taking measurements. A piece of cardboard, then plywood makes a great template. All up will cost you a weekend or two and less that the $800 you were quoted, and if you can do it all yourself it will cost even less.

It is a bit more involved than you make out. Which hubs, bearings and drive flanges???

You will either need to machine the back of the series hubs and drill and tap them to take Coiller rotors, or use coiller hubs, but to do that you will need to change to RRC or Stage 1 stub axles, and a 5-bolt drive flange. Lots of mixing and matching of parts (or custom machining) to get it right...

Originally Posted by Jonno

The answer to the problem is actually quite simple. You need 2 pieces of plate steel, about 10mm will do. You then have them machined so that they look like a big ring with a big tab sticking out. Drill holes in the ring section of it so you can bolt it to the stub axle flange. Drill 2 holes in the tab section appropriately spaced and bolt on Range Rover or early Disco calipers, you need the rear ones. Pull all the brake components off your series diff so that you have nothing but a stub axle and hub left. Put the brake rotor on the hub with a couple of nuts to hold it in place. Sit the calliper over the rotor and start taking measurements. A piece of cardboard, then plywood makes a great template. All up will cost you a weekend or two and less that the $800 you were quoted, and if you can do it all yourself it will cost even less.

About 6 months ago I bought a set of disk brakes that someone had fitted to a Series. I've finally gotten around to fitting one to a hub. I've done some research on the part numbers, they are Discovery 1 rear calipers and pads, I'm yet to verify the rotors, but I'm guessing they will be D1's as well. The only parts that have been made up are the two caliper support brackets. It looks as though this set has been made up exactly as Jonno had suggested.

When the car is eventually on the road I'll try them out and tell everyone how they're going.

Got any pics of the plate that the calipers bolt onto?

Cheers,

Adam

Heres a couple of photos of a S3 I used to have. I fitted a RR front disc brake diff and widened rear Salisbury. This was to control the 351 Clevo with a C4 (Marks adaptor kit) and 3.54 ratios. The front axle housing was modified for leaf springs. No problem with fouling from steering arm. Unfortunately I dont have any detailed photos of the front diff assembly. I fitted 110 flares to the S3 guards to make it look right!!!!

I think you could have found a bigger bullbar...

Must have been a weapon!

Originally Posted by akelly

I think you could have found a bigger bullbar...

Must have been a weapon!

Had to extend the chassis rails to accomodate the Thomas EW8000 winch. I built that bullbar myself - you could hit a big roo at 100k without damaging anything. Yeah it was a bit of a weapon - surprised a few Toyo/Nissan drivers at the lights. I built the motor from scratch using a 4MA crank and all the mods you could get for a Clevo without heating it up too much. Even used a Ford 4 core radiator with twin thermo fans in front. These were needed to keep temps down offroad. Even fitted an XY Ford P/S ram for power steering. Great machine to drive Fuel consumption wasnt very good though.

Originally Posted by akelly

Got any pics of the plate that the calipers bolt onto?

Cheers,

Adam

Here you go. It is 12mm thick, but has been machined to allow the bolts to go down lower to clear the hub.