Disc Brake Conversion.

There is a way to use a LHD RHS swivel housing and attach the drag link directly to the track rod.

Finding a LHD housing is easy in the UK but try to find one here. For the cost of buying one and importing it to Oz, you may as well spend the money on a conversion kit.

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Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies

There is a way to use a LHD RHS swivel housing and attach the drag link directly to the track rod.

Finding a LHD housing is easy in the UK but try to find one here. For the cost of buying one and importing it to Oz, you may as well spend the money on a conversion kit.

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Should be able to get one out of the States..

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Originally Posted by bacicat

Just a quick update to let you know I have had the required parts donated for the mock up for the Engineer. A BIG thank you to Dfendr for this.:)

I will be doings bits and pieces on it when I can, and I'll post stuff when I have anything to report. I have also just got access to a CNC plasma cutter, so I can stuff about with caliper brackets to my hearts content...:D

Cheers - Gav

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Hey Gav hows it going with the conversion.Any updates..

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Originally Posted by banjo

Hey Gav hows it going with the conversion.Any updates..

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Got a bit done, but between me being busy, and when I'm not the guy doing the machining is busy, so still a bit to go yet.

The basic idea I have has come together well and does appear like it will work. It is a bit different from other conversions so until I know I can make it work, I'm keeping the details close to my chest (to avoid embarrassment should it all turn to ****...:D)

I need to head back out there this week for work stuff - I'll check to see if he has finished the next bit. Once that is done I can pretty much dummy up one whole side and see where I end up.

If it all works like I hope, I'll make all the details known here.

Cheers - Gav.

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Originally Posted by bacicat

Got a bit done, but between me being busy, and when I'm not the guy doing the machining is busy, so still a bit to go yet.

The basic idea I have has come together well and does appear like it will work. It is a bit different from other conversions so until I know I can make it work, I'm keeping the details close to my chest (to avoid embarrassment should it all turn to ****...:D)

I need to head back out there this week for work stuff - I'll check to see if he has finished the next bit. Once that is done I can pretty much dummy up one whole side and see where I end up.

If it all works like I hope, I'll make all the details known here.

Cheers - Gav.

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Thanks Gav

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Originally Posted by banjo

Yeah your right , But there is a way around it some how i'm 100% sure ..Someone has done it by sswaping the swivels left to righ & right to left.If i had the money right now id get a diff & sort it out as i have heaps of time just not the funds yet.& someone had asked me if the bottom arms off the series will bolt to the other swivels , I said dunno as i dont have one here to see..I'm about half way through all my magazines & theres a couple of story's in them of people using differant bits off others to fit them.One bloke used disco or rangie swivels & then put RM callipers on it..I'd like to go 4 wheel discs on the tray back i'm building..I'd use disco or fender diffs if i could afford it as i dont mind iff there wider as it would make it more stable..Like i said i just dont have the funds to play around at the moment ..But there has to be a way to do it where its not going to cost so much ..I think with an engineers certificate & parts it should'nt cost anymore then say $1500 at the very most..We need to find a way to make this possable so everyone can afford it..Cookies kit is close to $4k i think with differant parts needed & all the other overseas ones seem to be around $3k to get..Most people dont even spend that on buying the car..I have spent well over 10k building the green one & i'm sure Harry is going to cost about that if not more.

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When yoy say that the cost of my kit is close to $4000, that would apply to a completely fitted conversion, drive in - drive out, complete with an Engineering Certificate.
Like you, I was under the impression that it would be possible to put a kit together for around $1500. After spending thousands of dollars and hundreds of hours trying to achieve just that, I now realise that it is not feasible.
The brakes will only ever be as good as the individual components allow, and for that reason I have opted for aluminium 4 piston calipers, together with the largest ventilated rotors that would fit within all the various wheel types. The same applies to the choice of pad material --- the pads that I recommend are Bendix Ultimate which cost 4 times as much as standard pads. For slightly greater cost, I can supply ceramic pads and drilled/slotted rotors, although these would only be suited to high performance applications or prolonged heavy towing.
My kit also includes a dual diaphram booster and modified pedal assembly as well as new rear wheel cylinders. Even if you manage to put a front axle kit together for say $1000, you will still need to address these items.
I can supply a basic kit with the front wheel assemblies pre-assembled (including all new bearings and seals) with standard rotors and pads for $2000. The pedal/booster assembly and rear wheel cylinders will be included. I only ask the following items be exchanged:
1) Pedal box assembly (Series 3)
2) Wheel hub x 2 (Series 3)
3) Swivel housings x2 (of correct type)

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-...id-my-way.html

Cookey

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Originally Posted by cookey

When yoy say that the cost of my kit is close to $4000, that would apply to a completely fitted conversion, drive in - drive out, complete with an Engineering Certificate.
Like you, I was under the impression that it would be possible to put a kit together for around $1500. After spending thousands of dollars and hundreds of hours trying to achieve just that, I now realise that it is not feasible.
The brakes will only ever be as good as the individual components allow, and for that reason I have opted for aluminium 4 piston calipers, together with the largest ventilated rotors that would fit within all the various wheel types. The same applies to the choice of pad material --- the pads that I recommend are Bendix Ultimate which cost 4 times as much as standard pads. For slightly greater cost, I can supply ceramic pads and drilled/slotted rotors, although these would only be suited to high performance applications or prolonged heavy towing.
My kit also includes a dual diaphram booster and modified pedal assembly as well as new rear wheel cylinders. Even if you manage to put a front axle kit together for say $1000, you will still need to address these items.
I can supply a basic kit with the front wheel assemblies pre-assembled (including all new bearings and seals) with standard rotors and pads for $2000. The pedal/booster assembly and rear wheel cylinders will be included. I only ask the following items be exchanged:
1) Pedal box assembly (Series 3)
2) Wheel hub x 2 (Series 3)
3) Swivel housings x2 (of correct type)

Cookey

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Thanks cookey..Yeah i can understand what your saying completely..Unfortunately its just outa my reach..The best i can ever hope for is something i can put together myself Bit by bit ..But i do understand the labour cost to you aswell as all the other bits & the work you have done to get this kit finished to a high standard..Just wish it was me who was able to have done it myself..

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Originally Posted by TJWA

The standard rims fit according to the instructions that came with it and they do look as though they will fit, but I have wolf rims on.

I'll grab a standard rim and try it tomorrow.

The front four pot callipers and vented discs are from the latest Defenders.

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Pulled out one of the original rims, they fit fine with the Tim Cooper version with no problems.

Instead of reinventing the wheel, so to speak.....

What about using MQ patrol axles (diff center is offset to the RHS as well, both front and back)? 31 spline side shafts.

They were also leafers.

The front axle came standard with front disks (DBA329), and the rear had self adjusting drums (DBA1705).

Petrol ratios were 4.625 : 1 so very close to the standard Series 4.7.

The following CW&P ratios were available:

4.9
4.6
4.36
4.11
3.9
3.6
3.55

Lockers and LSD's are available.

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Originally Posted by jakeslouw

Instead of reinventing the wheel, so to speak.....

What about using MQ patrol axles (diff center is offset to the RHS as well, both front and back)? 31 spline side shafts.

They were also leafers.

The front axle came standard with front disks (DBA329), and the rear had self adjusting drums (DBA1705).

Petrol ratios were 4.625 : 1 so very close to the standard Series 4.7.

The following CW&P ratios were available:

4.9
4.6
4.36
4.11
3.9
3.6
3.55

Lockers and LSD's are available.

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Nice idea - what sort of width are they? I would have thought they would be a fair bit wider than the Series track, but I'm happy to be corrected. If you had to narrow the diff, any cost savings would soon be eaten up...