Thread: Disc Brake Conversion.

Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies

If your vehicle was a 109 there is a particular design flaw on top of the wet brakes that can lead to the problem you experienced. With double leading shoes on the front and leading trailing on the rear of a 109, you effectively only have 1 wet leading shoe trying to stop you in reverse.

A Sydney series 109 enthusiast has fitted front brake assemblies to the rear swapping sides, so that he has a front RHS assembly on the rear LHS and front LHS on rear RHS. This means he has four leading shoes in whichever way he is braking and the innefficiency of the leading shoes braking in the wrong direction prevents brake lock up of the axle at the oposite end of the direction of braking.

Diana

I put a set of identical 109 6cyl front brakes on the rear of my 109 6cyl two weeks ago. It works absolutely fantastic, with no foreseeable operational disadvantages. Not only is braking forward somehow better, braking in reverse is equally as good. My system is only a single circuit, but it is vacuum assisted. Thanks for a very good tip Diana!

Originally Posted by Mick-Kelly

This may be a very stupid suggestion but didnt some of the later land cruisers (early 80's????) come with discs. Are they the same track width? Would it be possible to throw complete axle assemblies under a series three with relocated spring mounts etc.

The 47 series cruisers had front discs (son in-laws 81 does anyway) and the 60 series wagons which came out in 80/81 (IIRC) had discs as well.

I thought this must of died it was sertanly berried . . . . .


Anything new happening . . .

TJ did you get the swivels you ordered . . . . What are they like . . . .

Has anyone thought of using a 2 piece rotor?

I've done a few brake conversions on cars and a 2 piece rotor could make life much easier.

Basically you just machine up a center hat from aluminum billet to fit the hub you're using and then a plain flat rotor to that hat.

The hat could be machined to bolt to the back of the hub face or to slide over the outside of the whole hub. I think for your application a hat that bolts to the back of the hub would be the go since with the large PCD you would have to start with a big lump of billet to go over the outside. If you cant buy an off the shelf flat rotor in the right diameter it'd be easy enough to machine the center out of a regular rotor and make it bolt up.

I converted a Jaguar front end to take a 2 piece rotor. Here's a pic to give you an idea of what I mean.



I adapted an off the shelf aluminum hat but the theory is the same.



Cheers

Michael

i don't know about over there but here in the UK the legal system would have a full on meltdown on you should anything go drastically wrong with a homemade braking system such as that....

i've personally nothing against the two piece rotor idea (most motorcycles have it nowadays) but folks that are contemplating it really need to understand the composition of the metals it's contructed from and the risks (beside possible death) should it all go pear shaped

edit...

if that is just for track use then i doubt there would be a problem, if used on the public roads there is where the "legal" danger would lie

This thread went the way I feared.
We went from copying a simple conversion to atempting a redesign to achive perfection. (i'm sure all the expensive kits out there were a result of a similar line of ideas and the price reflects the effort and costs involved)
Most of my ideas end up this way, so I can relate to this thread.
I would love to revisit the original conversion, copy it using the laser cut plates, the same discs and calipers and move onto other great projects.
Eg.
My sidecar outfit needs new rings,paint and suspension; the ducati needs some love on the shock, custom work and new paint; my lathe needs a rebuild, oh and my 2A needs more then I can mention.

Anyone up for the simple option?

Originally Posted by banjo

I thought this must of died it was sertanly berried . . . . .


Anything new happening . . .

TJ did you get the swivels you ordered . . . . What are they like . . . .

Originally Posted by Sideroad

This thread went the way I feared.
We went from copying a simple conversion to atempting a redesign to achive perfection. (i'm sure all the expensive kits out there were a result of a similar line of ideas and the price reflects the effort and costs involved)
Most of my ideas end up this way, so I can relate to this thread.
I would love to revisit the original conversion, copy it using the laser cut plates, the same discs and calipers and move onto other great projects.
Eg.
My sidecar outfit needs new rings,paint and suspension; the ducati needs some love on the shock, custom work and new paint; my lathe needs a rebuild, oh and my 2A needs more then I can mention.

Anyone up for the simple option?

Yep i would be in that to...

To me everything has worked out to be alright except the attachment of the disc to the hub, which you could do the same way as the original set I have, but I fear the amount of strength the hub may lose. If you do want to go down the simple route all the info is here in this thread that you need:

Round edge swivel housings http://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-3/8...ml#post1260013

Caliper plates or the CAD design from Agrojnr http://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-3/8...ml#post1273831

Calipers - LOCKHEED 3242 292C L8 PQ (IDENTICAL TO DISCOVERY REARS)

Pads - AP LOCKHEED 5867A1R8 M (IDENTICAL TO DISCOVERY REARS)
or APEC TYP 8823 PAD 582 1 OD23

Discs - 11 93 E BB MIN TH 11.5 MM NB 93 http://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-3/85644-disc-brake-conversion-6.html#post1280512
DBA153:
TOYOTA > HI-LUX 4WD > RN36 (10.5mm Stud Holes) (This model was still in production up to 1978)
TOYOTA > HI-LUX 4WD > RN46 (10.5mm Stud Holes) (This model was still in production up to 1979)

DBA154:
TOYOTA > HI-LUX 4WD > LN36 (15mm Stud Holes)
TOYOTA > HI-LUX 4WD > LN46 (15mm Stud Holes)
TOYOTA > HI-LUX 4WD > LN60 (15mm Stud Holes)
TOYOTA > HI-LUX 4WD > LN65 (15mm Stud Holes)
TOYOTA > HI-LUX 4WD > RN36 (15mm Stud Holes)
TOYOTA > HI-LUX 4WD > RN45 (15mm Stud Holes)
TOYOTA > HI-LUX 4WD > RN46 (15mm Stud Holes)
TOYOTA > HI-LUX 4WD > YN60 (15mm Stud Holes)
TOYOTA > HI-LUX 4WD > YN62 (15mm Stud Holes)
TOYOTA > HI-LUX 4WD > YN65 (15mm Stud Holes)
TOYOTA > HI-LUX 4WD > YN67 (15mm Stud Holes) (This model was still in production up to 1989)
TOYOTA > LANDCRUISER > LJ70 (This model was still in production up to 1993)
TOYOTA > LANDCRUISER > RJ70 (This model was still in production up to 1985)

Series III 272309 Rims will not fit. Discovery 1 Rims will fit with a 5mm wheel spacer (equivalent to the original spacing of the drum).