Thread: Look what I found

Originally Posted by ezyrama

Thanks John, I know my way around cars (rebuilt a few different ones) but what in particular do you think I should look for in the S3.

Cheers Ian

As long as the chassis, firewall and 2.25 Diesel are sound it is worth at least $750 IMO, a gearbox can be rebuilt for less than $500 (make sure there is no crunching between 3rd and 4th) and all the other bits can be fixed or replaced without too much fuss.

Check:
Operation of the gearbox and transfer case,
Running of the diesel under load,
Rear of the chassis underneath and where the rear crossmember joins, underneath the front spring hangers and underneath the outriggers the firewall bolts too.
Footwells in the firewall and just below the dash on the firewall, also on the outside at the bottom of the firewall where it bolts to the chassis.
Does the speedo and all the gauges work?

Is that a filler for a station wagon tank I can see at the rear?

Originally Posted by TJWA

As long as the chassis, firewall and 2.25 Diesel are sound it is worth at least $750 IMO, a gearbox can be rebuilt for less than $500 (make sure there is no crunching between 3rd and 4th) and all the other bits can be fixed or replaced without too much fuss.

Check:
Operation of the gearbox and transfer case,
Running of the diesel under load,
Rear of the chassis underneath and where the rear crossmember joins, underneath the front spring hangers and underneath the outriggers the firewall bolts too.
Footwells in the firewall and just below the dash on the firewall, also on the outside at the bottom of the firewall where it bolts to the chassis.
Does the speedo and all the gauges work?

Is that a filler for a station wagon tank I can see at the rear?

Thanks for that, I am going to have another look on Sunday, so if I get it I'll post some pic's after we clean it up and yes it has two tanks.
cheers Ian

Originally Posted by ezyrama

Thanks John, I know my way around cars (rebuilt a few different ones) but what in particular do you think I should look for in the S3.

Cheers Ian

As others have suggested. If the engine runs and it can be driven, you can make a lot of checks (see below) - if the engine can't be run for any reason, it does not mean there is a major problem, but it does mean you cannot tell whether there is, and this must affect your decision.

If the engine can be run, check operation of the engine, getting it warm. It should run evenly and start easily (first compression this time of year) once fuel system is bled if this is needed. Black smoke is probably not a major problem, blue or white smoke could be, same for uneven running or hard starting. It will be very noisy, but this is normal.

Check operation of clutch, brake all gears, high/low and four wheel drive. Check brakes work and don't pull. Watch for jumping out of gear, and strange noises (transfer case is usually noisy by car standards.

But I would take a good look at some of the other bits that will reflect how it has been maintained. Look at the spring shackles - the shackle pins should be in the centre of the spring eye, and there should be no sideways play. Check for broken leaves or leaves wedged apart by rust. Check the steering for free play - should be less than 5cm free play on the rim of the steering wheel, and all the free play should be in the steering box.

Check that all lights and other electrical equipment work, and look at all visible bits of wiring harness for signs of overheating. Look at the floor below the pedals for signs of brake fluid leaking. Check condition of seat cushions. Check condition and fitting of seat belts.

Check that the chassis number (should be on LH rear back spring hanger) is the same as the one on the manufacturer's plate (should be in front of gearlever) and the compliance plate (if fitted - most S3 have them - either near the radiator header tank or behind the engine). Different numbers mean you would be opening a can of worms - its probably a bitzer.

The biggest concern is probably rust - in the firewall or bulkhead, probably worst below the windscreen and near the door hinges, rust in the footwells is a lot easier to repair. In the chassis, look where mud would be thrown up from the wheels, rear crossmember, outrigger attachment points, top of chassis and bumper attachment area. Use a screwdriver to try and punch holes.

Don't worry too much about oil leaks - many seals will need replacing anyway just from disuse, but if the engine looks to be leaking oil everywhere, it probably has a lot of blowby, suggesting worn rings. Check prop shafts for worn U-joints and splines. U-joints are easy and inexpensive (splines are not) but the concern would be if they have not been replaced if needed suggesting neglect. Pull the level plugs on both diffs and swivel housings and see what is in them - if oil, you are in luck - if oily, probably OK, if rusty or water - expensive. If possible, jack up at least the front wheels, and check for free play on swivels and wheel bearings. Again, not a major expense, but a symptom of neglect.



Hope this helps.

John

Following on in the same line of thought.
I have recently purchased a 1981 Series 3 109 2.25 petrol fitted with tray back. After serious thoughts and a little discussion with the "Manager for Big Expenditures" I paid $2000 for it
It has had everything except the brake pedal replaced in the braking system coz of corrosion to the lines and wheel cylinders.
Apart from both front guards having dents from pushing cows it is in pretty good knick. Minimal rust elsewhere...Kept in a shed most of it's life.
Main thing going for it is that the service book is up to date with a genuine 65000km and only two owners prior to me.

It is not a restoration project yet as I use it as my work truck (towing tinny to beach and rubbish to tip etc) while "MfBE" drives around in 'her' TD5 auto.

Glad to read that there are others with an interest in these "proper" Landrovers.

Disco Denmark

Well I got it.
My son has just got his learners permit and he asked me if he could have it for his first car. Picked it up last week and all we had to do was put some deisel in the tank, bleed the lines to the injectors and she fired 2nd go.(like to see some of the jap crap do that after 10 years idle). It drives quite well, the front passenger brake need looking at (sticks a bit) and there is a bit of rust in the drivers foot well and the two outriggers on the passenger side,other than that it's cleaned up a treat. The dash isn't cracked at all, it has 3, yes 3 deisel tanks and a water tank behind the seats, an overhead console,storage boxes on the back seat shelves including a dual battery setup and overhead shelves above the seat shelves with speakers mounted in the ends facing towards the front seats. The doors are corrosion free and the original door cards are in 1/2 decent condition although I will be replacing the shortly. All the electrics seem to work except for the left blinker but it's probaberly the flasher unit. The valve stem seals need replacing and I was thinking of doing the head gasket whilst I had it apart. I found a rat's nest on top of the passenger's fuel tank which explains the lovely aroma inside the cab (the air cond deodoriser I sell worked a treat on that) It starts and stops and runs well but I think I may be up for a new clutch, it picks up at the very top of the peddle travel and slips a bit in 3rd and 4th. I haven't had a good look yet but it looks like a slightly different set up to Ralph my 11a, is there much adjustment there??? I will post some pic's next week when I have finished gerni-ing it for the 6th time to show the difference. The amount of black soil from the Stanthorpe region that has come out of it so far could have top dressed my front yard twice over.

Cheers Ian

Originally Posted by ezyrama

Well I got it.
..... I haven't had a good look yet but it looks like a slightly different set up to Ralph my 11a, is there much adjustment there???......

Cheers Ian

Sounds as if you have a good buy. The clutch has no adjustment - it is self adjusting, and yes, the arrangement is different to your 2a. The slave cylinder is on the LH side of the flywheel housing and acts directly on a release fork, not like the 2a via a cross shaft and levers. It sounds as if the clutch is about done. Means gearbox (or engine) out, although on a 2a I have managed to replace a clutch plate just moving the box back.

John

Thanks John
BTW My young bloke wants to call it "Smeg" for all of you that knows the Red Dwarf tv show. Hey John, are all the clutch kits for the S111 the same or are there variations? I have the Gold Coast brake and clutch guy in the same complex as me, he is very good but I dont think his guy's are interested in something this old (6/77 model) so I will do it myself me thinks.

Cheers
Ian

Good work. More pics