Steering box's

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Originally Posted by Offender90

I'm replacing it with a 4 bolt box from a discovery. One thing to be aware of if going down this route is that the input shaft on a discovery box is slightly shorter than on a county (not sure how different this is from a Stage 1).

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Hey Bojan,

Its completeley different. The box is an integral part on the end of the steering column, as opposed to the chassis rail, they then have a steering idler at the front.

Rgds
Pete

its a piece of cake... its Definately DIY if youve got the confidence.

If you can pull it out of the vehicle (thats the hardest part) Since its a quick job to strip and clean I'll slate you a couple of hours when I come over for my sisters wedding. (3 weekish, Pm Me)

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Originally Posted by Offender90

Adam,

I know what you mean, I've had ~ 45 degree play on my 120, and all of it was at the steering box. This is how far the input shaft turned before getting any movement at the output. The box was both leaking and covered in grime. I topped up the fluid when I got it and tried turning the adjuster bolt, but had little to no luck. It may have reduced the play by 5 degrees, if that.

I'm replacing it with a 4 bolt box from a discovery. One thing to be aware of if going down this route is that the input shaft on a discovery box is slightly shorter than on a county (not sure how different this is from a Stage 1). Mine is 2mm out, while Ben's (isuzurover) was about 5mm. I think he managed to fit his in, so you may want to find out what he did.

Cheers

Bojan

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Steering box and linkage on the 120 (and RR, Disco, 90/110/Defender and Stage 1) is very different to Series Landrovers. (Hence it is rather involved to fit power steering)

After the introduction of the recirculating ball box late in Series 1, the Series steering system is quite good, despite Isuzurover's comment, provided that it is properly maintained - less than 2cm free play at the steering wheel rim is normal. There should be NO free play anywhere except in the box, and this should be minimal.

There are a large number of joints which CAN introduce play, but these all represent specific, fixable faults. In seventeen years of running my current 2a, the only problems with the steering have been - loose bottom arm on the relay, two tie rod ends, swivel bushes, and loose U-bolts.

Of course, since the introduction of the Series Landrover, two factors have been introduced. Firstly is that the original designs never envisaged tyre widths greater than 7" (later 7.5", and with a lower geared box in the One Ton and FC, 9"), whereas today wider tyres are commonly used on Series, often with greater offset than designed to maintain turning circle, and secondly, we now have a generation that has never known anything except power steering, and finds unassisted steering beyond their muscles, even with the original tyre width and offset.

John

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Originally Posted by JDNSW

, we now have a generation that has never known anything except power steering, and finds unassisted steering beyond their muscles, even with the original tyre width and offset.

John

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John, this thread brings back bad memories. I recently had a drive of a restored 1959 Commer Knocker. This is this first heavy truck without power steering I can recall having driven in probably thirty years. My stars, I wondered how we managed the things, particularly when you think that the Commer had much lighter steering than others of the period. We had a 1947 Thornycroft that required you to brace your leg against the firewall and heave with both arms on the same spoke when reversing.

And as to play in steering. In our teenage years, my mates and I drove what we could afford on the apprentice and junior wages of the time. Mostly worn out pre-war cars not worth the cost of major repairs. I recall some of these with absolutely dangerous amounts of play at the steering wheel, anything up to 1/4 -1/3 of a turn and requiring considerable concentration and dexterity to keep them heading straight. Holding them straight on a cambered road and then turning left was a trick. You needed to plan this manouvre in advance.

I had Valiants for a good while. These had a Gemmer recirculating ball steering box. I managed to acquire a genuine Gemmer workshop manual which went into much greater detail than the genuine Chrysler book. Gemmer stated that play at the steering wheel rim of 1/4" to 1" was acceptable. Gemmer also said that it is sometimes not possible to reduce this measurement except by selective assembly. In other words, access to a factory parts bin. According to Qld. Transport 1" of play is sufficient for a vehicle to be declared unroadworthy!!!! One could have a decent argument with a Departmental inspector over Departmental tolerances against manufacturers acceptable tolerances.

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Originally Posted by p38arover

"boxes" not "box's"

"box's" is possessive = what does the box own?

"boxes" is plural.

:p

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Thanks next time I make a spelling mistake I know who to call:cool:

Now back to the subject

I don't want to fit power steering at this stage and its alot easyer than you think ( I have the info at home) but I would rather fix the box thats in it so it can pass the pits with out any problems

My last series was had 33" tyres and I had no problems steering

Adam

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Originally Posted by agrojnr

Thanks guys will have a look once the young fella is in bed

BTW Bojan did you manage to get the mirrors off (I have not got hinges off yet)

Adam

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The mirrors are off, I've got them at my place (can bring into work (city) if you want), but I had a bit of trouble getting the hinges off the firewall side. Will have a good go on the weekend for you.

Cheers

Bojan

Cheers I will take off my top hinges over the weekend for ya

Adam

Adam
Check the firewall for flex.On my last Ser3 the firewall had cracks allowing the steeringbox to flex at the firewall quite badly. I fixed it by adding 2 plates to sandwich the firewall to the steering box.It prevented the flex without the need to weld.Cracked bulkheads are pretty comon,I didnt get around to looking at the Stage1.
Goodluck
Andrew