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Thread: SIII 1978 SWB Hard Top

  1. #61
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    Nut splitters work well; I use a Sykes Pickavant but sometimes access can be tricky.

    If you do what Groucho suggested, drill through the nut with a suitably sized drill bit parallel to the thread but far enough away not to damage it. If you do this diametrically opposite each other and then whack it with a sharp cold chisel and a heavy hammer, it will split easily and save you the cost of a nut splitter

    Are you sure a good quality socket, metric, or AF will not grip on the bolt on the drive flange? It doesn't look too badly damaged to me but certainly needs replacing,

    Cheers Charlie

  2. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by chazza View Post
    ......
    Are you sure a good quality socket, metric, or AF will not grip on the bolt on the drive flange? It doesn't look too badly damaged to me but certainly needs replacing,

    Cheers Charlie
    Worth noting that the bolts on the drive flange are neither metric nor AF - the heads are Whitworth and they are BSF thread. (Just about the last bit of BSF on late Series 3, unless I am mistaken - same bolts from the very first Landrovers!)

    Trying to use the wrong size socket (or a shifter) may explain the condition of the heads. Also worth noting that these bolts are often overtightened and stretch. The resulting necking of the shank makes them a looser fit in the hole and may lead to movement on the flange, with resultant oil leaks, although this is often also a pointer to loose wheel bearings.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
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  3. #63
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    On the flange bolts you have a choice
    remove the grease nipple and use a small pair of stillsons
    Hammer on a socket that will fit
    or weld a nut on the bolt
    If they are original bolts they should not bottom in the hole so they should
    not be that tight .........

  4. #64
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    Update -

    Checked out the Supercheap Auto link (thanks Sleepy!), went to Mittagong in the early hours of the morning, they don't stock nut splitters...

    Neither do Bunnings, Home Timber & Hardware, an auto store in Mittagong & an auto store in Moss Vale - none of the people had any idea what I was talking about...

    I'll try another Supercheap when I'm up in Sydney...

    I'd like to save the bolt, which means no cold chisel - I was asking my grandfather for advice, and asked him (in all seriousness) how cold the chisel had to be

  5. #65
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    Don't bother looking at those cheap places for a nut splitter
    Thats what they will be Cheap.......
    You probably won't get a nut spitter under the diff centre nut anyway.

    Why do you want to save the non functional bolt on the flange
    with the rounded head ? Its Quite obvious that the previous owner didn't have the right size socket. Unless you are realy attached to that bolt
    throw it away.........

  6. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by groucho View Post
    Don't bother looking at those cheap places for a nut splitter
    Thats what they will be Cheap.......
    You probably won't get a nut spitter under the diff centre nut anyway.

    Why do you want to save the non functional bolt on the flange
    with the rounded head ?
    Its Quite obvious that the previous owner didn't have the right size socket. Unless you are realy attached to that bolt
    throw it away.........
    I hadn't considered the space under the nut - you're completely right (it's very, very close).

    And I didn't realise that the non-functional bolt was non-functional - not to mention easily replaceable...

    I'll go out and have a good whack - I'm worried about the diff though; if I essentially cut off the nut & bolt, can I replace the bolt (i.e. how is the bolt attached to the back of the diff? Anyone have a pic?)

    As always - thank you all!

    Cheers,
    Dave

  7. #67
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    The bolts on the diff housing are stud bolts which press into the inside of the housing.. Here is a pic..
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #68
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    If you split the nut carefully they are soft. you should still have the stud left.
    They are splined and tap in from the inside......
    Don't snap the bolt in the flange or you will have to drill it out.

  9. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wolfman_TWP View Post
    The bolts on the diff housing are stud bolts which press into the inside of the housing.. Here is a pic..
    Thanks - that's very helpful (and timely!)

    How are they pressed in? Would I be able to do it?

  10. #70
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    Tap em in with the hammer..........

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