Reply With Quotehow much free play have you got on the pedal before you take up on the master cylinders piston?
sounds like the thing needs a bleed up or its recirculating if the fluid level is correct.
Hey all
Well now im having problems with the ****ing clutch...
There was a bit of play in the pedal so I thought "ill adjust the pushrod" (clutch worked fine, pickup point was normal etc)
When I looked I had bugger all adjustment left in the pushrod anyway, the nut was 2-3mm from the end of the rod.
I adjusted it out the the very end while I was there assuming that would get rid of the excess play.
Driving along afterwards all was OK then I realise the clutch now actuates about 2" from the floor, the pickup point is 1" or so....obviously this makes it very difficult to drive....sigh.
Ive check the pushrod nuts, not loose or anything.
There is about 15-20mm play however, and I cant adjust it out because im at the end of the rod already.
Is this a stuffed cylinder or...???
It seems like the piston isnt returning or something.
Advice appreciated!
Ash
RoverLord
how much free play have you got on the pedal before you take up on the master cylinders piston?
sounds like the thing needs a bleed up or its recirculating if the fluid level is correct.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
About 50-60mm!!
Basically the whole throw of the pedal, it doesn't actuate until the last 1" or so.
Its another one of these "what happened" moments though.
It was perfect, aside from a minor play issue, until I "adjusted" the rod. (I say adjusted but I only moved the nut about 1-2mm)
Fluid level looks good.
What do you mean by recirculating?
Cheers
The free play is exactly that too, totally free.
Its not spongy, there's just nothing.
Is it possible for the piston to become stuck in the cylinder?
That's what it looks like to me anyway.
RoverLord
there should be a small amount of travel before the piston rod up the top connected to the master cylinder connects to the piston itself.
the clutch master has a primary and secondary seal on it. Recirculating is when the primary seal has let go and the fluid isnt being used to move the slave cylinder untill the secondary seal closes off the fill port.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Yeah in this case there's about 20-30mm play, the rod just slides freely into the bore of the cylinder.
Is it worth trying to rebuild the cylinder or just replace it?
I see CLR have got them for $65
RoverLord
got it...
the master cylinder is not returning.
theres half a dozen causes but the check is to drop the line off of the master cylinder and initially gently blow compressed air into the fitting and see if you get bubbles up into the reservoir. IF you dont get the bubbles drain the fluid by sucking it up with a sponge, back the adjuster nuts off on the pedal so the rod is well and truely clear of the piston then give it some high pressure air with a fresh bit of sponge in the reservoir.
add some water and repeat the check with the low pressure air. (you can use water as you will be pulling the MC to repair/rebuild the thing)
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
ForumSage
SubscriberCould it posably be air in the system,,i had the same problem & it was just air.bled it a few times & its been fine ever since....
1969 LWB S2a yellow, gone
1972 LWB S2a 5 DOOR wagon coming & GONE
1973 LWB S3 green Sadly GONE
1977 LWB S3 tabletop building
1992 disco BOINGY BOINGY
My landrover doesn't leak oil , IT SWEATS POWER
JASON & KAREN
RoverLord
it most certainly could be but Im assuming that the clutch has already had a bleed up. (since that was in my first post)
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
ForumSage
SubscriberI know Dave i'm a bit behind the ball tonight..is it fixed..Originally Posted by Blknight.aus
1969 LWB S2a yellow, gone
1972 LWB S2a 5 DOOR wagon coming & GONE
1973 LWB S3 green Sadly GONE
1977 LWB S3 tabletop building
1992 disco BOINGY BOINGY
My landrover doesn't leak oil , IT SWEATS POWER
JASON & KAREN
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