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I concur with the advice given.
Ezy-Outs- drill them out 1st. DO NOT TRUST YOUR LUCK! If Ezy-Outs snap in the hole you have major problems as they are toughened steel. OR, place a nut on the end of the sheared off bit & fill the hole withn a MIG. Cool, then unscrew with a spanner.
Wheel Studs: I replaced my fronts but the replacements did not have the concave ends for peening so I tack welded them. Not Good Technical Practice but the welds are only to stop the studs turning!
I agree that welding isn't the best, but it does the job and I have done this myself in the past without any problems. Getting the hub too hot will cause distortion so only do tack welds.Quote:
Originally Posted by geodon
Hi All,
I had a small win last night - well at least on 2 of the 3 drum screws...
Andy_d110's suggestion worked well:
Drill a small pilot hole, and then insert an "easy out" or "screw extractor" to remove what remains of the drum screw. I bought a "screw extractor" for $11 from a large hardware store...
That worked great... What didn't work so great was on the 3rd (and final) screw, the drill bit snapped off in the drum screw... And you can't drill out a drill bit... Doh! (Worst case I can grind the area flat, and use 2 drum screws instead of 3...)
Murphy must have written a law specifically in relation to Land Rovers - "When removing a component, it is always the last screw/not/bolt that will seize."
The other good news - I couldn't get the last drum off at all. The drums screws would not move. When I tried to use a long screw driver I could feel the screw head begin to damage... I didn't want to end up in the same place (broken drum screws). So I bought an impact driver - and it worked a treat!
:)
Regards,
The Grey Ghost!
Instead of Ezy-outs or similar, first try a reverse helix drill bit. The thrust generated by the cutting action most times will screw the offending screw out. You need a drill that runs in reverse. If you break an Ezy-out or drill bit in the hole you are in trouble. They are usually made of high speed steel. Your choices then are to take the item to a machine with an electronic discharge machine which can be a problem if the component is firmly attached to something too big to get in the machine, or, buy a tungsten carbide drill and try that to remove the broken tool.Quote:
Originally Posted by grey_ghost
With the hub off you can drill from the other side into the screw and when after the two points of the drill bits have touched, use a pin punch and tap out the broken bit.Quote:
Originally Posted by grey_ghost
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For safety reasons, I'd not be happy with re-inserting the original studs into the hub, or even re-using the original hols/threads with replacement studs.
The design was always poor and this hub has already failed.
As I see it there are two safe options:With the drum retaining screws. Using a drift give a number of hits on the screw head with a heavy hammer. Then using a smaller punch at a tangent in the direction of removal knock the screw out. If you have one, you can use an impact driver instead of the drift and then the punch technique. Replace the screws 1510 BRAKE DRUM SCREW | shop | www.lrseries.com | L. R. Series and insert using never seize on the thread.
- replace the hub with the late SIIa type with studs that are pressed in from the rear.
- mill out the holes and press in the late push in type studs. 561886 WHEEL STUD PUSH IN TYPE | shop | www.lrseries.com | L. R. Series
Hi All,
Thanks very much for all of the advice.
I now have ALL drums screws out.
3 (from a front drum) just needed lots of WD-40 and a impact driver. This worked a treat.
3 (from a rear drum) needed to be removed via an "ezy-out" and re-tapped.
So I now have all drums off and all drum screw holes clean.
Regards,
The Grey Ghost.