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Thread: Steering Relay - Oil fill - Access

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Warb View Post
    When you order the joints, make sure you get the correct ones. They're not all the same, the earlier and later SIII versions are different with one version being fully threaded and one having a shoulder. They cannot safely be interchanged because they don't clamp securely. Some vendors don't know this and assume one size fits all.....
    Do you know what they are on a IIA Warb? I know one is left threaded and one right.

  2. #12
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is online now RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Jan 1970
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    Further to what Warb said. Tie rod ends for Series Landrovers changed at about the start of Series 3 production. The earlier ones have an unthreaded section that the tube clamps on to. Later ones are threaded all the way, and the clamp is on the threaded section.

    The two types must not be interchanged - i.e. the type of tube must match the type of end.

    If they are mixed, the clamping is insecure, as either way you have just the crests of the thread clamping against a smooth surface - vibration or even temperature changes will soon wear off the crests and there is no clamping. From there it is just a matter of time before the joint either unwinds or the thread wears enough to fail completely. Either way you have steering failure, and there are reports of fatal accidents as a result.

    While Series 1,2,2a would normally have the older type, and Series 3 the later, there is no guarantee that the links on your vehicle have not been swapped to those of a different vehicle. There is no substitute for checking what you have. Just look and see if the threaded section of the tube goes all the way to the end, and that the ball joint matches this with no unthreaded section, or conversely, that there is an unthreaded section on both. Do not reuse either tubes or ends that have been in service mismatched, unless a competent engineer can confirm that the threads are undamaged.

    The other part of the joint, the taper bit, is all the same, although the thread may be BSF, UNF or metric, and the nut may be pinned or various varieties of self locking. This does not matter, nor is it a particular concern whether it is permanently lubricated or greasable.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Regarding the relay.
    Here is a picture of the top end.




    All 4 bolts connect through to a gallery. Remove 2 bolts fill through one hole but.....the oil has to sneak past the thrust washer & split bush which takes ages.

    Here is a picture of the bottom end, can't remember the orientation of the hole but only one bolt is the drain.








    Hopefully oil comes out rather than rusty water......



    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

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